so i have a huge exhaust leak...narrowed it down to the exhaust mani gasket around cylinder 6 (could see the gasket coming up)..then looked to notice 2 of my head "studs" were actual bolts with multiple washers in the 2 last spots..one goes in and tightens down the last one slides freely..they are also more coarse than oem studs...any recommendations on what to do? this is frustrating since this is my daily driver..
so i found something very dissapointing today...
- Thread starter RJS22
- Start date
Sounds like the threads for the exhaust manifold studs are stripped. Time to helicoil, or timesert (timeserts are better).
http://www.timesert.com/
http://www.timesert.com/
You'll have to remove the manifold and helicoil or timecert the holes....you can do it with the motor in the car but odds are you'll fuck it up...it's best to do this in a milling machine (aka machine shop).
damn i was hoping that i wouldnt have to remove the motor 
anybody have luck with the Drift Motion 7/16' studd replacement kit?
anybody have luck with the Drift Motion 7/16' studd replacement kit?
With the head off the car it's not too bad, in the car I can't imagine it working out very well. I did it with just a hand drill, tapped with a buddy helping to make sure it was straight... came out pretty well.
did this with motor in the car no problems last year. i used a 90 degree angle drill (correct term?) with a short drill bit. removing the motor for an exhaust leak? lot of work for a small issue on a dd. I did helicoils, but would do timecerts if i did it again. (still holding perfectly though!)
use a deep socket lined up next to the tap and a level to get the threads correct. Im betting somebody forced a bit bigger bolt into the stripped hole.
use a deep socket lined up next to the tap and a level to get the threads correct. Im betting somebody forced a bit bigger bolt into the stripped hole.
it's not as simple as an exhaust leak...it's stripped hole the happens to be very important! Seems like a small issue but it's a problem and an even bigger problem on a turbo car!
I'm not gonna get into why you should stay away from the oversized stud kit from DM...but I hope you'll take my word for it as as a machinists view.
Yes many people run it without problems..."yet"....but that doesn't mean it's good stuff!
grimreaper said:
This is the route that I would lean towards myself honestly. After taking the exhaust all off you should have enough room to get in without pulling the engine.
adampecush;1444209 said:
My 3rd post explains why..
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109873
A 7/16th Thread roll might also be an option for soft heads as it will harden the material around the stud and a stripped m10 hole should he close to it's drill size.
(this is off the top of my head I'd need to confirm with my tooling supplier)
(this is off the top of my head I'd need to confirm with my tooling supplier)
7/16 thread roll sounds like it's gonna hurt going into my soft head, Ian. Ohhh, you meant the car, my bad.:biglaugh:
I had this same problem about a week ago. I just tapped it put a stud in and bolted it down. Mine was a little easier to get to cause it was the one hole closer then the last one. Thing that made me made was even after I fixed the exhaust leak I could still hear the noise, turned out my egr cooler was leaking also. That was a pain to get to.
Keen-serts are also a great option. I ended up putting in 2 since the helicoils were not holding due to a shitty tapping job.