So confused. Turbo, pvc system, rings?

7M-KDL

Seeking high numbers
I have tried searching and i know that things like this have been covered but i cannot seem to find what im looking for, i believe my case is different.

I just rebuilt my motor, new pistons, rings, mhg, arp harware, resealed turbo etc less that 2000miles ago. I broke in my engine and have been driving it for a few weeks/month now. i started having a smoking problem and loosing oil problem. I thought i had a fitting loose so i checked all of them and found that my charge pipe had a crack and seemed to be in the right position for the oil to be coming from it. The turbo inlet also had a drop of oil sitting on it. I assumed this was from the PCV system maybe sucking too much oil out or something. Later, i drove to a friends house and when i took off the lower charge pipe it was like i was doing an oil change(at this point i had been driving the car for about 2 weeks). After that i decided to try a catch can which seemed to help the problem but my pipes still had oil inside them. I did not reroute the catch can back to the intake so there should be no oil in there but there was. I was/am still getting blueish smoke on decel(in gear) and now a little bit at idle and when i first take off from a light or something. So i checked my turbo and since it was not resealed by a professional and seemed to have a little play, along with the oil problem i assumed the seal was bad(my turbo was/is bad). Now, i have got a new turbo which i purchased from a user here that was said to have been rebuilt less that 1500miles ago by a professional shop. I am not mentioning his name because i have not discussed this with him yet, therefore he has had no chance to solve/determine whether there is a problem. My problem is that now, after buying a "new" turbo my car continues to smoke. The new turbo does not have the "drop" of oil on the inlet like my old one did and it is hard to tell whether the oil in the charge pipes is from this new turbo or just residual from the old one. I have a hard time believing that this new turbo is bad after talking in depth with the seller who was very helpful in all other aspects. I also have a hard time believing it is "worn" rings since they are brand new and i would think that if there was excessive blow by it would cause more oil in my catch can(which it hasnt). This leads me to think that maybe there is a problem with the PCV system. Perhaps i am building up too much pressure allowing oil into the combustion chamber. I also noticed that my dipstick was popped out of the holder today(about 3/16)i am not sure whether i forgot to put it all the way back in when checking the level or whether pressure build up caused it to come out. I know the first responses will probably be "compression test" or "leakdown test" but i do not know how to do the leakdown test and havent done a compression test yet. I am pushing low boost(5-6lbs) because of the boost leak i have. Hopefully i have provided enough information to get help but if not ask me whatever and i will try to give you more information. This is all i can think of right now though. Oh yeh, i dont think its realted but i guess maybe its possible that it is. My car runs really rich, which i assume is from the boost leak. By rich i mean afrs in the high 10s, low 11s at cruise and low to mid 9s under boost. I have an afpr, lex afm, 660cc injectors and safc. I tuned when i first got the car running but havnt tried to retune because i know i have a leak and i dont want to have to re tune again when i get a new intercooler(hopefully a week or two) Thanks in advance


Also, i did not proof read so please ignore all the mispellings and grammar errors that you can stand.
Matt.
 

roadboy

Supra Owner
Jan 22, 2008
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Toronto, Ontario
wow...cliffs please!!
i dont know if i missed it or anything...cause my eyes hurt

but what color is the smoke thats coming out?
rings can be bad even if its new (after break-in period)
Plus you shouldn't be driving it with a boost leak, it will only harm ur engine even more
 

7M-KDL

Seeking high numbers
umm,smoke is bluish grey not really whiteish (not bhg smoke) no oil in water no water in oil. it is black when i push the gas(overly rich). also, boost leak is bad? i thought vacuum was the one that was bad. thanks for the quick reply and sorry my post was so long but i wanted to make sure i didnt forget anything(and im sure i still did)
 

7M-KDL

Seeking high numbers
im not saying your wrong or that i do not want your help but this is not a stock ct or even an upgraded ct for that matter. i am also only pushing 5 lbs with the an 8psi wastegate. do you really think i am pushing it too hard? i plan to get a new intercooler and piping very soon but i cannot stop driving my car,i have school and a job so i have to drive it with the leak for now.

edit: i also havnt been running my car very hard dont boost very often at all because i know that i have a leak
 

TurboStreetCar

Formerly Nosechunks
Feb 25, 2006
2,776
3
38
Long Island, Ny
That not pushing the car too hard.

Blue smoke is oil. Where its coming from is the question. If you think about it, what is different between normal running of an engine and deceleration? inside the cylinder is very low pressure. Anywhere there is a potentially leak, it will be pulled into the cylinder rather then pushed out when accelerating.

When your car is sitting everything drains to the bottom. If oil is sitting on the valve stem seal and not being whipped around it will seep past the valve seal as it runs down from the top of the valve.

Rings would generally leak at all times, moreso on decel because of the low pressure in the cylinders, but at all times they would fail to scrape the oil from the cylinder wall and it would be burned. Oil will never drain up past the rings.

Is you PCV system set up as stock? If so it could not be sucking out oil. It connects to the throttle body and to the accordion hose. There is no valve in the system. The tube on the throttle body has a very small orfice inside it that restricts the flow.

When in vacuum air is drawn from the acordion hose to the throttle body past the valve cover ports consuming any vapors that may come out. When in boost air is pushed from the throttle body to the accordion hose past the valve cover ports sending any vapor that may come out into the turbo to be consumed by the motor.
 

7M-KDL

Seeking high numbers
thinking about the way you explained it, could not having my can re routed cause a boost leak? also, i know blue smoke is oil, i just dont know from where. everything seemed fine when i first started driving it after the rebuild and its almost like its gradually getting worse. i really hate it bc it makes my car seem like its a piece of shit and ive got a lot of time and money in it for it to be leaking for "no reason". before i rebuilt my valve seals were bad and smoke it would smoke on start up and then go away. this doesnt really do that. it smokes a little on start up but it never seems to go away. like when i back out of my driveway, then switch to 1st gear and take off it puts out a little puff then stops while im accelerating(and turns to black smoke instead, fuel, im running pig rich)
 

Heavy D

New Member
Jun 3, 2009
358
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worcester, ma
try a compression test, when you are free, wouldnt hurt to try also, to me, if you see the black smoke its probably that leak if you havent fixed it, also when you was breaking in your motor, did you ever beat on it, did a couple warm up cycles, and change the oil the first couple of times?
 

7M-KDL

Seeking high numbers
yes, im pretty sure the rich condition is from my leak. yes, i changed the oil at 50, 500, and 1000 miles. when breaking in i ran up to 4k without boost then let it decel on its on in gear.


a friend of mine also mentioned that running this rich may be coating my cylinder walls, could that be causing the oil burning issue? or are the 2 things unrelated
 

IBoughtASupra

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
4,455
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Queens, NY
Compression test. Does the smoke burn your eyes? A car that is running rich, the smoke will burn your eyes especially if you are running no car and unleaded. Did you use head paste when putting in the valve seals? A lot of people use oil and they tend to float up. We use Indian Head Paste when installing valve seals.
 

NashMan

WTF did he just wright ?
Aug 5, 2005
4,940
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Victoria BC
sounds like your rings did not seat well or got carboned up from runing rich combo of both

one thing most peopel don't notice is that there brake booster is full of brake fuild form a faulty master and this will cayuse the motor to burn grey/ slight blue tint

easy way to find out if the rings are bad is just use a comon compertion tester and test it and then after that re test but thsi time drop some oil in the cyclerder if ti increses your ring did not seat or there guumed up


trubo cars will burn oil that just do can't do any thign about it

as for the oil in the intake there a bunch of things you can do to figure out what is wroung



oh yae if you runing really rich you can wash out your cylces causeing your ring not to seat propeley and carbon them up rich all can be form runing to low of timing as well

oil left behind form the old trubo
bad trubo
to much crank case perusre from bad rings or wroung cross hatch for the rings (a cromomly ring will need diffetn cros hatch then stander iron ring to seat well )

well have fun chow for now
 

7M-KDL

Seeking high numbers
the smoke does burn my eyes and the valve seals were put in by the shop so i do not know. the head was assembled and the block was assembled. i assembled the head tothe block and the rest of the accessories and such.

Nash, during break in and for a week or two after i did not have any problems with smoking,it seemed like they seated fine. is it possible that if i get rid of my rich problem that the rings will be able to do their job again, assuming that is the issue? Also,it seems like some parts of your post may have gotten jumbled up but i think i get the general idea.
can you explain the brake booster thing a little more? where/how would i check this? will it cost a lot of money? i have just dropped a lot of money trying to get this thing running again soi do not have a lot of "research" money.
 

Heavy D

New Member
Jun 3, 2009
358
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worcester, ma
i would rent a compression tester from advance or a friend of yours and give it a try before you start tearing things down, and save your self some time,
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
16,757
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Fort Worth, TX
Compression test...

Trouble shooting is step 1, 2, 3... you're trying to skip ahead, stop screwing around and get the compression test done.
 

89supra7mgte

New Member
Sep 20, 2009
797
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colorado
def do the compression test first, give you and all of us a general idea.

The brake booster thing, I have never heard of, but if the seal on the rear of your master cylinder goes bad it will leak. in between master and booster, inside of car or to the inside of the booster itself. The booster line runs right into the intake which pulls vac and could possibly pull brake fluid form contaminated booster and run it into the engine. Which in a way would pull more on decel being you have strong vacuum. But i also think you would feel a braking issue, which you did not state.

While doing the compression, just take a look at brake fluid level since you are under the hood anyways and checking fluids is always a good thing to stay on top of.
 

7M-KDL

Seeking high numbers
Not doing the compression test is not because im screwing around its because I have a life and haber ben working.also my compassion yester and most of my god tools are at my parents house 1.5 hours away which is where I do most off my major work
Ill get, out done when I get a chance to go home this weekend