Road Racing MKIII?

Wiisass

Supramania Contributor
Besides all the drama going on in here, road racing an Mk3 is a lot of fun. Granted the car I drive is stripped down to about 3000lbs, running my TIP suspension setup, and I wasn't running on the best tires and it was making about stock power. But besides the brakes which need to be upgraded, the car was pretty solid and would hang with a lot of faster cars in the corners. It could've been a lot faster that day if the brakes would last longer than the first couple turns.

For brakes, I was planning on getting new rotors, some Carbotech race pads, stainless lines and some good fluid, probably Motul or AP Racing. I would like to do something different with the brakes, probably something similar to the ARZ kit, but that might not happen for a little while.

Now if I could only get some good power, the car would tear it up.

But if you really want to do this, make sure everything is solid before even thinking about upgrading. The engine is running fine and won't have any problems after getting really beat on for 20-30 minutes straight. The suspension bushings are good, nothing is blown. The spring/dampers, I don't know about running on the stock stuff, but you could probably get away with it as long as the dampers aren't blown. I wouldn't suggest cheaping out on some low-end coilovers that will probably cause more handling problems than they will fix. Make sure you have good tires on there, make sure the brakes are good. And make sure nothing is going to fall apart or fail after getting abused on the track.

After that, go out, try it, then decide what needs attention first. If the engine is running good and causing no problems, then leave it alone for now. Same with everything else. Since it seems you're on a tight budget, you need to prioritize and focus on what needs attention the most. And save the money for getting to and from the track and paying for gas, tires, fluids, entry fees, etc.

Just go out there and try it first, unless you have a racing background, building a car before doing anything with it is stupid and will probably reinforce any bad driving habits you may already have. I've driven so many different cars in different situations, that I feel comfortable hopping in a different car, feeling it out for a couple laps and then pushing it pretty hard for the rest of the time. You just need to know what you're looking for and what to expect. It takes time, but you're young, so take things slow and do it right and you will have no regrets. If you start throwing money at the car to get it what you think would be track ready, then you're probably going to end up spending double the money to fix the things that you had bought before you really knew what you needed.

Tim
 

7MSupraGE87na

New Member
Aug 11, 2007
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St. Cloud, MN
Just kind of putting my 2 cents in here. Your insurance company is raping you in the ass my friend. My supra isn't my first car, far from it, but I only pay about 100 or so a month for mine. I just can't comprehend how you pay so much for insurance.

As for the other guys, if you really want to do track racing. I suggest getting a Nissan 240sx. Cheap car you can get a cheap reliable one on craigslist, or look on ebay. They are cheap for insurance, yet with the right upgrades can be very fun to take to a track.

I had a 90 240, with just suspension, intake and struts and did okay at the track. I wasn't being blown away nor was I kicking any asses. Go with a car like that.

Like what the others were saying, try racing it being slow before you dish out money to make it fast
 

Wiisass

Supramania Contributor
A 240 is also a good car. That's what I have, the Mk3 is my brother's, so I get to play with both whenever I want. But there's a lot more parts available for the 240, that doesn't mean that they're better or that very many of them are actually that good, but there are a lot of options. In terms of cost of getting either car prepped for the road course, you might be able to save a little money with the 240, but you're probably going to be spending comparable amounts for both cars. Trust me, I'm building both right now and if you want quality parts for the 240, you're going to spend money. You'll just have a lot easier time finding the quality parts for the 240 than you would for the supra.

But if insurance is the kicker and the 240 would be cheaper, then that might be a better option.

Tim
 

DonS1mpson

Black Supramacist.
Mar 19, 2006
674
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England!
7MSupraGE87na said:
Just kind of putting my 2 cents in here. Your insurance company is raping you in the ass my friend. My supra isn't my first car, far from it, but I only pay about 100 or so a month for mine. I just can't comprehend how you pay so much for insurance.

As for the other guys, if you really want to do track racing. I suggest getting a Nissan 240sx. Cheap car you can get a cheap reliable one on craigslist, or look on ebay. They are cheap for insurance, yet with the right upgrades can be very fun to take to a track.

I had a 90 240, with just suspension, intake and struts and did okay at the track. I wasn't being blown away nor was I kicking any asses. Go with a car like that.

Like what the others were saying, try racing it being slow before you dish out money to make it fast

Different countries, different views on insurance. I'm pretty jealous of you guys, If I was in the states right now, not only would I be driving already, I'd also have a shot at getting a decent quote on the supra.

The 240 thing really isn't going to work. Not only is the insurance just as unreasonable as the supra, but the drifting bandwagon have jumped all over them driving prices for them through the roof.

I am however having second thoughts about tracking the car I've got right now. I've got a massive amount of love for that car, and I do want to use it on the street one day as a real daily driver, not as a stripped track day. I don't think I could face taking apart such a complete car to risk on the track.

I may have lined myself up a free supra with a dead and stripped down engine with no running gear. Might it make more sense to build that car for the track, and slowly rebuild and restore my car for the street next year?
 

89Turbo

New Member
Oct 22, 2005
804
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Portland
BorHor said:
Coilovers
sway bars
swaybar end links
ALL the bushings
tie rods
rear traction arms
rear camber arms - maybe
I know there are more. That is just the main ones.

front strut brace
rear strut brace
JIC lower bar
Do-luck(or knock off) cross bar(goes across back seats)
lighter wheels
GOOD TIRES-MOST LOOKED OVER ITEM

check out A1 suspension items on HPF.COM

it can be done, buying one of those other cars EVERYONE else runs is weak, you said your not looking to be super competitive, so at least be original.....
 

Johnysupra

Rhenerie
Nov 7, 2007
125
0
0
Michigan
rhenerie.spaces.live.com
Ok i just typed up a big long speech, but my comp gliched. . . .

If you really wanna learn how to race get a miata.
With a small car it will be easier for you to learn to feel the car and know what its doing.

yes a MKIII can be compeditive but its not cheap or easy.
you could always buy another supra later on.

my 2 cents

BTW a Road MKIII is my current project. so im not Hating
 

tte

Breaking In - in progress
Mar 30, 2005
940
0
0
Northern California
About the insurance costs, He is right.
When I was younger I was living abroad and I bought my 1st supra there.
It cost me thousands to insure the car but because I really wanted the car (and also the Nissan Sktyline GTR), I paid for it.

And it is always better to get your license first. You mentioned you have a few months before you get one. Then you could do all your research and make a plan so when you get your license you should be almost ready to go.


Cheers,
Roy
 

supraguru05

Offical SM Expert: Suspension & Vehicle Dynamic
SM Expert
Dec 16, 2005
737
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louisville ky
89Turbo said:
those dont help handling in any way?


no all they do is add unnesscary points for modifications

your just single handedly pointed out all the usless chassi stiffiners people make for our car lol

i used to run strut bars just because they were cheap and didnt hurt but now they cost mod points so i cant run them
 

89Turbo

New Member
Oct 22, 2005
804
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0
Portland
supraguru05 said:
no all they do is add unnesscary points for modifications

your just single handedly pointed out all the usless chassi stiffiners people make for our car lol

i used to run strut bars just because they were cheap and didnt hurt but now they cost mod points so i cant run them

WOW companies are making a killing then
 

mkIIIman089

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
3,061
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Ohio
In our specific application they do next to nothing, and the bang for the buck factor is non-existent.

For other, more poorly designed cars, they can help more.
 

Dimman

Back to the Left.
mkIIIman089 said:
In our specific application they do next to nothing, and the bang for the buck factor is non-existent.

For other, more poorly designed cars, they can help more.

Wouldn't they help a Targa, though? I can feel the difference in stiffness between my old '87 hardtop and my current '90 targa.
 

bgrieger

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Toronto
likely placebo effect...you got something rumoured to help so you fell it had to help, so your mind says something happened. Reality is, it triangulates nothing that flexes, and our front suspension does not rely on the strut towers to maintain geometry. If something did get improved by adding te STB, you better find out what broke to let that happen...They work well on MacPherson setups as the strut towers experience lateral loading and unloading (not because they are poorly designed, just because that is the way they work). Tying them together does help the suspension maintain better camber keeping the flat spot more planted on the road.
 

Dimman

Back to the Left.
bgrieger said:
likely placebo effect...you got something rumoured to help so you fell it had to help, so your mind says something happened. Reality is, it triangulates nothing that flexes, and our front suspension does not rely on the strut towers to maintain geometry. If something did get improved by adding te STB, you better find out what broke to let that happen...They work well on MacPherson setups as the strut towers experience lateral loading and unloading (not because they are poorly designed, just because that is the way they work). Tying them together does help the suspension maintain better camber keeping the flat spot more planted on the road.

Is that response for me? What I meant was that my Targa doesn't feel as stiff as my old hardtop (no bracing on either one) over bumps/rough road.

I was hoping front and rear bracing would help that.
 

mkIIIman089

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
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Ohio
IIRC the rumor is that targa cars have a stiffer chassis underneath then hard tops. With the roof on, theoretically it could be stiffer than a hard top.

The front and rear are not changing all that much with the roof removed, it's the twisting in the middle that makes it feel "soft". The best way to remove that flex... put the top back on. I don't know of any place that will let you run on a track without it on anyway.
 

bgrieger

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Toronto
Dimman said:
Is that response for me? What I meant was that my Targa doesn't feel as stiff as my old hardtop (no bracing on either one) over bumps/rough road.

I was hoping front and rear bracing would help that.

sorry, though you said you had bracing...

Anyhow, I wouldn't be surprised to find the targa has more flex even with the roof on. sure it's bolted on, but it still isn't likely near as resistant to flex as not having a gaping hole in the first place regardless of adding extra steel to the bottom of the car.
 

89Turbo

New Member
Oct 22, 2005
804
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Portland
bgrieger said:
likely placebo effect...you got something rumoured to help so you fell it had to help, so your mind says something happened. Reality is, it triangulates nothing that flexes, and our front suspension does not rely on the strut towers to maintain geometry. If something did get improved by adding te STB, you better find out what broke to let that happen...They work well on MacPherson setups as the strut towers experience lateral loading and unloading (not because they are poorly designed, just because that is the way they work). Tying them together does help the suspension maintain better camber keeping the flat spot more planted on the road.


thank you thats the effin response i was looking for not just- braces dont work.....