Redid my brakes and now I smoke after sitting on the brakes for a while

steveyblack

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Jun 21, 2007
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Well I took the supra out for the first time with the new brakes, EBC green stuff, Rotora rotors, SS brake lines. Anyway i saw that if I put pressure onto the brakes when at a red light(pressing pretty hard) for about 30seconds ill start to see smoke come out of my front end. It smells very chemical like. Could it be the break-in layer on the brakes baking onto the disk? Or maybe a small leak thats making its way onto the rotor/pad? What about residual fluid/grease/grime from the install?TBH i think it may be a leak but I havent confirmed. I looked at my resivour and it was full still. Ill tear it apart in the next day or 2 and ill get a much better look.


Side note, what should I torque the banjo bolt to on the caliper?
 

hvyman

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Apr 17, 2007
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No reason to press really hard on your brakes while not moving.

Caliper seals could be leaking and burning on the rotors/pads if they were hot.
Did you look at them when you were replacing them and what did you use to push the piston back in?

22ftlbs is the torque for the banjo bolt.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BR&P=30

Also could just be the break in material from ebc but i never noticed smoke on mine. How hard were you driving and how long did it take to smoke?

Did you brake clean the rotors to get all the oil off of them before installing the pads?
 

steveyblack

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hvyman;1619768 said:
No reason to press really hard on your brakes while not moving.

I still have to adjust how i drive to the new brakes. My old system was very spongy. Im pretty good with the pressure now though.

Caliper seals could be leaking and burning on the rotors/pads if they were hot.
Did you look at them when you were replacing them and what did you use to push the piston back in?

I looked for any tears but I didnt really look too much. I put a C clamp in the piston (had a little wooden dowel in it before hand) and pushed it in that way.

22ftlbs is the torque for the banjo bolt.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BR&P=30

Ill go and buy new copper crush washers and torque it up.

Also could just be the break in material from ebc but i never noticed smoke on mine. How hard were you driving and how long did it take to smoke?

Not too hard, but plenty warm. I dont see it smoking while moving(maybe didnt see it because I was moving) but it takes a good 30-45 seconds before I see anything.

Did you brake clean the rotors to get all the oil off of them before installing the pads

yes I hosed them with brake clean before hand. I might have possibly put a finger print onto them but I tried to leave them as clean as possible.
 

steveyblack

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IJ.;1619784 said:
Bedded the pads in correctly?

as best I can do in dense NJ roads/highways. I had to stomp on the brakes one time when I got cut off and the guy then slammed on his brakes. A-hole. I tried to take it easy on the brakes
 

steveyblack

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IJ.;1619791 said:
Describe how you bedded them in..

uhm normal driving, not trying to go from a fast speed to a dead stop. Engine breaking till 20-30 mph, if that before hitting the brakes.
 

steveyblack

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Okay I just took the car out for a spin and it didnt smoke at any lights. But when I parked it and shut it off the smoke began. its only from my passenger side too.
 

bombinuass

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Mar 20, 2010
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after all this noone even asked are you going through break fluid???

---------- Post added at 09:52 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:50 AM ----------

is it a turbo?
check your PS lines. when i park mine the HP line on my PS hose leaks a little bit and sprays PS fluid onto my manifold and smokes out the passenger side. probly not related to your issue but i figured id give you my problem
 

hvyman

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^Says in the first post that he didnt seem to be losing fluid.


Supposed to do hard braking from like 60-70ish down to 20ish and trying not to some to a complete stop as much as possible. Some times kinda hard to do but you basically want to brake hard repetidly. Makes them grab hard afterwards.
 

supraguy@aol

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Dec 30, 2005
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mkiiichip;1620050 said:
Did you clean all the anti-rust oil of the rotors before installation?

yes, in post #3.
Make sure the caliper is not seized on that side, and that the pads are seated in the caliper properly.
Happened to me once, and the rotor started glowing. Didn't pull much to the side, though.
 

steveyblack

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supraguy@aol;1620056 said:
yes, in post #3.
Make sure the caliper is not seized on that side, and that the pads are seated in the caliper properly.
Happened to me once, and the rotor started glowing. Didn't pull much to the side, though.

hmmm maybe, I feel a little pull to the right(where im having the problem) only during coasting. braking and accel are straight. What would be something to look for in a stuck caliper? It was hard to open the caliper up to put the pads in. It was actually really hard compared to the other side. what can I do to fix this?
 
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hvyman

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Ya thats consistent with a brake dragging on one side. I would pull that caliper and inspect. If the pads are more worn on the inside side then usually the slides need lube.

Did you lube the slides at all?
Common problem on our cars for them to seize.
 

steveyblack

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Just some more info to add to this thread. I noticed that today that I had a light squeal coming from my right front break that goes away if I hit the brakes. Im guessing that its the stuck caliper at this point. ill be looking at it tomorrow in depth so ill keep you updated
 

Satan

Supramania Contributor
Mar 31, 2005
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You can order a caliper rebuild kit from most auto parts stores for about $10. I'd get one on hand, just in case. The TRSM covers the assembly/disassembly pretty good.

Good luck.
 

supraguy@aol

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Dec 30, 2005
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And in a worst case scenario, a rebuilt caliper for our cars is actually pretty cheap.

$20.79 on Rockauto.com

edit- oops- that's the closeout price for the left one- you need the right.
 

87nasupra

Scotty's Garage
Mar 2, 2006
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Check Wheel Bearing Play ! I had a RF hub bearing starting to seize, leaning the RF rotor into the caliper and locking the caliper up. I went through 4 calipers, 3 brake lines and 2 ABS pumps before I saw I had play. That was 2 years ago and have been brake problem free since. Just a thought.
 
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