R154 trans install question

[Another MkIII]

Ok, I did a search for R154 install advice and got nothing. Also, I have read the TSRM and its procedure for installing an R154 trans. My question is, is it possible to bolt the clutch to the flywheel and bolt the trans on like you would with a normal trans, or is there a reason why you can only do it by mounting the trans and bolting the clutch to the flywheel through the inspection holes. Unless I'm missing something, it seems to me like I could install the pilot bushing, and bolt the clutch up, and then slide the trans on and bolt it on. Thanks for all your help, this project wouldn't be nearly as far along as it is now without all of you.
-AM3

 

[pimptrizkit]

well, first i dont think there is enough room to slide the tran's pefectly back 6inchs to clear the fork hub.

second, There is no really good way to install the disk centered in the flywheel and pressure plate.
If you use a dummy input shaft usualy supplied with the kit, once you bolt the pressure plat to the flywheel you realized your clutch hub is longer then the dummy input shaft tool, so you get passed this with some wire you had lying around..

this bring's you back to problem one. "IF" you can do it, it'll be alot harder then bolting the flywheel and pressure plate back together like the it was designed to be done.

 

[black89t]

no you can't........trust me.


the only way you can do it that way is with the motor out. but really is it that hard for you to torque them through the slave hole.

 

[gaboonviper85]

^ stop talking

You can bolt the pp and did too the flywheel first yes....but it's very hard to get the trans lined up! Also this means that the clutch fork needs to go in last and it's held by a pin and "c" clip (major pain to do without very long needle nose pliers!

The way the tsrm tells you to do it is the easiest! All you have to do at that point is bolt up the trans (beats the hell out of fighting the splines of the disk) then put the trans in "N" and spin the pp till the bolt holes line up....much easier!

 

[suprahero]

Yes, it's possible, but it's a royal pain in the ass. I did it this way twice before I read the propper way to do it. It is very easy to bolt the clutch to the flywheel through the two inspection holes.

 

[drbowser3]

^ stop talking
Also this means that the clutch fork needs to go in last and it's held by a pin and "c" clip (major pain to do without very long needle nose pliers!

Telling the previous person to stop talking, yet you claim to need needle nose pliers to install the clutch fork?? The pin stays in the fork, the fork and pin come out of the pivot. I think you're doing it wrong.

OP, can it be done, outside the car yes. Is it worth the extra effort, not a chance in hell.

 

[gaboonviper85]

Telling the previous person to stop talking, yet you claim to need needle nose pliers to install the clutch fork?? The pin stays in the fork, the fork and pin come out of the pivot. I think you're doing it wrong.

OP, can it be done, outside the car yes. Is it worth the extra effort, not a chance in hell.

last I checked you can pull the pin from the for and it drops free...or unbolt the pivot from the housing...I'm sorry it's been over a year sense I've seen the clutch fork in a r154...either way it can be done the way the op asked and the motor doesn't need to come out!

This is the tech section and giving blatenly wrong advise isn't welcome...my bad about the fork pin assembly but either way you look at it the fork has to be installed last with this method.

 

[Doward]

Don't bother trying to install the R154 the 'normal' way - do it as the TSRM says.

It'll save you a lot of sore muscle, thrown wrenches, and horrid words cast about.

 

[gaboonviper85]

Don't bother trying to install the R154 the 'normal' way - do it as the TSRM says.

It'll save you a lot of sore muscle, thrown wrenches, and horrid words cast about.

Doesn't that still happen even with the tsrm way? I thought cussing, wrench throwing, and bleeding hands was the signs of doing it correctly?

I thought that doing it the other way just meant a little louder, little more air time for wrenches, and alot more blood!?

 

[wiseco7mgt]

Telling the previous person to stop talking, yet you claim to need needle nose pliers to install the clutch fork?? The pin stays in the fork, the fork and pin come out of the pivot. I think you're doing it wrong.

OP, can it be done, outside the car yes. Is it worth the extra effort, not a chance in hell.

Yeah spot on once the fork has no pressure on it you can just pull it out easy enough. I have an input shaft off an old box to line up the clutch plate and it works for me but like the more experienced guys have chipped in it's easy enough to bolt it on through the inspection plate just tighten and turn as you go, you'll be surprised how quick it all goes together this way.

 

[Another MkIII]

Yeah, I forgot to mention, the engine is out of the car right now, it was just rebuilt. Does that make things any different, or am I still better to do it the TSRM way? Its sounding like the TSRM way is probably the best method.
-AM3

 

[kotu100]

if the engine is out the car bolt up the tranny now.

 

[Another MkIII]

if the engine is out the car bolt up the tranny now.

That was the plan. My question is wheter or not it will be easier to bolt the pressure plate on before or after the trans is on.
-AM3

 

[kotu100]

That was the plan. My question is wheter or not it will be easier to bolt the pressure plate on before or after the trans is on.
-AM3

put it on, but leave it loose so the clutch disc has a lil play, put the tranny on, then tighten the bolts.

 

[Another MkIII]

New question: I don't have the ST for the pilot bushing. Can I tap it in with a socket and a hammer, or is there a better way to do it?
-AM3

 

[rayall01]

New question: I don't have the ST for the pilot bushing. Can I tap it in with a socket and a hammer, or is there a better way to do it?
-AM3

Socket and hammer works just fine, if you have the correct size socket. Make sure it only touches the outer race, and nothing else.

 

[black89t]

^ stop talking

You can bolt the pp and did too the flywheel first yes....but it's very hard to get the trans lined up! Also this means that the clutch fork needs to go in last and it's held by a pin and "c" clip (major pain to do without very long needle nose pliers!

The way the tsrm tells you to do it is the easiest! All you have to do at that point is bolt up the trans (beats the hell out of fighting the splines of the disk) then put the trans in "N" and spin the pp till the bolt holes line up....much easier!

hahaha.

by the way your talking have you ever even pulled a r154? because i have actually tried it that way and yeah. its a waste of time when the motor is in the car. and about the whole tech thing i know that tranny better than you most likely ever will. so yeah. you need to stfu because you sound like your talking out your ass or what you have read. not what you have actually DONE.

anyway i'm in ohau and i need to get ready to go to the beach. ::w00t::

 

[kotu100]

hahaha.

by the way your talking have you ever even pulled a r154? because i have actually tried it that way and yeah. its a waste of time when the motor is in the car. and about the whole tech thing i know that tranny better than you most likely ever will. so yeah. you need to stfu because you sound like your talking out your ass or what you have read. not what you have actually DONE.

anyway i'm in ohau and i need to get ready to go to the beach. ::w00t::

you really need to STFU, me and my bro just did a tranny swap in the car, on jackstands in 4 hours from start to finish. i thought it was hard 1st time i did it but its easy as fuckin pie.

 

[Another MkIII]

Another new question: The old Pilot Bushing will not come off the input shaft of the trans. Is there some sort of special tool or mathod to remove it? Thanks
-AM3

 

[ForcedTorque]

I just did this, and this method works. It sounds dumb as hell, but it works. Take newspaper and tear it into 3 inch strips about 1/2" wide Find a bolt that just barely fits the hole in the bearing. My instructions were to wet the paper, I used PB Blaster. Now stuff the paper into the hole until it won't fit any more. Pack it down with your bolt and a hammer. I had to do that 9-10 times. Sooner or later, you will get it packed tight enough to smack the bolt with the hammer hard, and it will knock the bearing out from behind. Price = Free if yo have any paper around the house. You can also use toilet paper.