R154 issue

[wht95scort]

I just finished a 1jz swap in a friends mk3. When the car is running and not moving I can shift into all gears. When im in first and start driving I get locked out of second. I shift to third and now cant get back into second or first unless I come to a complete stop. I was thinking syncros but I get no grinding just seems like theres a wall blocking me out.

Second issue is the shifter hits the shifter bezel when going into 2 or 4th. It also stretches the shifter boot. I removed the bezel to see if it would make shifting into second any batter but to no avail. Any info will be a great help

Thanks

 

[MightyAl]

Did you put the shifter in backwards?

 

[wht95scort]

Did you put the shifter in backwards?

No its on the right way.

 

[SaltyMKIII]

was the trans working before you put it in? i mean did it have any problems before you swapped the 1j in?

 

[wht95scort]

was the trans working before you put it in? i mean did it have any problems before you swapped the 1j in?

Don't know bought it with the engine as a set from a JDM wholesaler.

 

[MightyAl]

No its on the right way.

It is possible to install it reversed and that would cause you to hit the shifter bezel. It might need to be flipped 180 degrees.

 

[SaltyMKIII]

Don't know bought it with the engine as a set from a JDM wholesaler.

i dont like the sound of that. i have 2 trans 1 with 200k mi and one with 95k mi and they've been out of my cars several times and they havent had that problem...

It is possible to install it reversed and that would cause you to hit the shifter bezel. It might need to be flipped 180 degrees.

i say give that a shot, it'll only take 15 min other than that i dont think it sounds good but before i say anything else im gonna check the manual when i get home i printed out all the PDFs a few months ago

 

[mjsn1]

Take out the shifter and spray some trans oil, if that doesn't work try a new shifter.

 

[SaltyMKIII]

Take out the shifter and spray some trans oil, if that doesn't work try a new shifter.

no cant be that transmissions are simple they either work or dont... according to the TSRM page MT-3
problem: hard to shift or wont shift
Probable cause: spline on input shaft dirty or burred, transmission faulty
Remedy: repair as necessart, disassemble and inspect trans

rip that sucker out check the input shaft if its ok then take it back for another one ot get it rebuilt either way its still gonna suck!

heres the link to the TSRM
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?fo...X1.net/supra&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13311115313991

 

[Dani87x]

I would have simply ripped out to begin with. Seems like it may need a rebuild...

 

[wht95scort]

Found a leaking clutch master. I am going to replace this and re-bleed. hopefully this will fix it.

 

[wht95scort]

Well replacing the clutch master did not solve my issue. Still doing the same thing. If i pump the clutch pedal a few times i can get it into gear. I will try replacing the slave and try again. Also how heavy should the pedal feel? As it is now it seems pretty light and it has a performance clutch.

 

[OfnaRcR4]

Bleed it a lot.. I mean the whole thing again. After that adjust it as per tsrm. There's really not much to this system. I'm assuming its just out of adjustment or has air in it.

 

[jdmfreak]

I'm here

Creepy... thats not what I tried to quote....!?!?! Lol any way

X2 on the bleed it good and make sure all connections are tight so its not leaking air into the system

Sent from my C771

 

[IBoughtASupra]

If you pump it many times before you can't get it into heat like you say, you have a leak somewhere or air in the system.

Do this.

Fill reservoir

Loosen nipple completely off from slave

Have a friend sit in the car

Have your friend push the pedal and hold it to the floor

Take your thumb and cover the hole where the nipple goes, make sure to press on the hole

Release pedal

Remove finger covering hole

Have friend press pedal and hold to the floor, you cover the hole on the slave while he is holding the pedal and after you cover the hole on the slave have him release the pedal.

Do this until you see fluid come out.

Once fluid comes out, put the nipple back on and bleed as you would normally two more times to ensure there is no air.

Keep checking the reservoir. If I runs dry, you will have to start over.

Covering the hole is done to prevent air from getting back into the system.

I have bleed a whole brake system in under 10 minutes using this method in a dry system where everything was changed. Learned it from an old school guy.

If this fails,

You could have a bad slave that is letting pressure past the internal seals.

Check pedal free play to make sure it is in spec. Specs are in the TSRM.

Let us know.

 

[jdmfreak]

X2 to iboughtasupra
excellent answer
Sent from my C771

 

[wht95scort]

update: I replaced the master and bled the system of air. I also adjusted the pedal, but im still having the same issue. The clutch grabs high and still cant shift into first or second after driving and coming to a stop. the slave moves the fork a bit more than 1/2 and inch which looks ok. I have no idea what else to try. Could a worn hub cause this issue?

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Have you tried the slave yet? Usually when one goes, the other should be replaced.

 

[wht95scort]

I did not change the slave as it dose not appear to be leaking. I did have the flywheel cut prior to installing the trans it was stepped. Its a new spec clutch. I reused the hub. Not familiar with the pull style setups.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

The hub, if installed with all washers will be fine.

A slave does not have to be leaking for it to be bad....you could be loosing pressure internally from a worn rubber.