Question about mirror finish (head) & I'm lookin for a reputable machine shop in WA

87mgte

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Two quick questions. I'm in the middle of BHG replacement and I need to know

a) A machine shop close to the Seattle area

b) My Auto II teacher told me today that a machined mirror finish is bad to have because it'll make the head slide around on the HG and cause it to blow again. Input? I'm pretty sure my friend I'm doing the HG job with (str8_6 on here) told me to get a specific RA and to ask for a mirror finish, but don't quote me.

Any help would be awesome, thanks.
 
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87mgte

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Sawbladz;943827 said:
Just how far is your head going to slide with locater pins and head studs in place?

That's exactly what I said. I was like "well with ARP studs @ 80-somethin lbs/ft, uhhh..." So mirror finish is good to go?
 

Guyana00

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Apr 18, 2007
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Your auto teacher could be on to something. I don't think it would be a problem, imho because the clamping force of the studs should be enough to hold it in place. Then again, I say he may be onto something because his theory does make a bit of sense and he is definitely more qualified than I am in the automotive field, well I'm qualified at all actually :p. Anyways, to minimize my ramblings, you have the option of mirror finishing the rest of the head and leaving the bottom alone and lapped only. Not like it will be seen and it would cover your teacher's theory.
 

NewWestSupras

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The head and block should have the lowest ra possible. With arp's and dowels, the head isn't likely to go skating...a rough finish is not preferable here. That actually made me chuckle!
 

figgie

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Mar 30, 2005
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Seattle washington?

Home of Boeing?

Dude go talk to Aircraft machine shops. They have machine capable of RA of 3 or even less! :) I am talking brush your teeth shiney if you want!

Paging Ron Ramirez (JT2MA71)
 

sethron71

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www.SethIngham.com
Well there is a kick ass shop in Yakima, WA where I had my stuff done. It was dirt cheap cause a friends reference but they did a killer job and real fast! They do mostly desiel stuff but also some high end performance stuff. It was awhile back when I had it done but if you are interested I can take a look into it for you!

Thanks,
Seth
 

Guyana00

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NewWestSupras;944283 said:
The head and block should have the lowest ra possible. With arp's and dowels, the head isn't likely to go skating...a rough finish is not preferable here. That actually made me chuckle!

Exactly. Wth was I saying. I won't edit it now to not look stupid :p .I haven't slept since Saturday, I didn't know the human body could do so. I don't think I was all that sane with my head on right in the first place lol...I should probably lurk around.

I hope you do a good job on the head and go with the mirror polish, I'd like to see some pics.

Hey I just thought of a temporary solution that would make you forget about everything for a while.

Go tell your gf you want your head polished. :naughty:
 

87mgte

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Guyana00;944365 said:
Hey I just thought of a temporary solution that would make you forget about everything for a while.

Go tell your gf you want your head polished. :naughty:

lol What's really funny/gay is the fact that we've been dating for almost 7 months and we haven't gone much farther than makin out. She's lucky I can control myself.:3d_frown:
 

87mgte

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gaboonviper85;944730 said:
me to lay down the law with that girl...put out or get out!

Hahaha what's even funnier is that she'll be 19 soon and I'm 17. I figured the older they get, the more comfortable they are, but...:nono:
 

87mgte

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Moving on from the fact that my girlfriend doesn't put out, BUMP. lol Come on guys, I need a machine shop, stat.
 

gaboonviper85

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take this anyway you want....you absolutly do not need a mirror finish...get the finish the gasket calls for....yes two extremly smooth surfaces will float on the pocket of air that is traped between them.....this is not a lie and or a joke and your shop teacher was correct! There is such a thing as too smooth...and another point would be that if you make it to smooth the coating on the gasket will have nothing to bond too and there will be no place for the traped air to escape.....

I am a machinist...I make parts to the blackhawk helicopters and alot of other aviation and medical parts....oh and weapons systems...there are specific reasons they call for certain finishes and even though there is the option to go smoother it would hinder the operation of said part...all you need is the head lapped smooth and let the copper spray or coating do the rest.
 
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gaboonviper85

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another point....even though its a metal head gasket metal generally doesnt touch metal because of the coating......let me stress that if no coating was used then yes a ra of 2 would probably be needed but this isnt the case....think of it this way,,ever stuck gum to a mirror, it peels off easy, ever stick gum in the carpet it doesn't want to come out!! That gasket spray/copper needs that very slight ruffness to bond to and seal
 
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87mgte

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gaboonviper85;944949 said:
another point....even though its a metal head gasket metal generally does touch metal because of the coating......let me stress that if no coating was used then yes a ra of 2 would probably be needed but this isnt the case....think of it this way,,ever stuck gun to a mirror, it peels off easy, ever stick gun in the carpet it doesn't want to come out!! That gasket spray/copper needs that very slight ruffness to bond to and seal

I'm gonna be using an OEM gasket, but thanks for the input. So what am I supposed to tell my machine shop?
 

gaboonviper85

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Oem gaskets blow balls if your planning on boosting much.....but if you insist on that route then just take the head to the machine shop ....they will look up what kind of finish is needed....they will have access to all that info for an oem application....its only when your useing after market stuff that you will need to tell them what needs to be done...get a service manual and it should tell you what type of finish is recomended.
 

87mgte

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gaboonviper85;945419 said:
Oem gaskets blow balls if your planning on boosting much.....but if you insist on that route then just take the head to the machine shop ....they will look up what kind of finish is needed....they will have access to all that info for an oem application....its only when your useing after market stuff that you will need to tell them what needs to be done...get a service manual and it should tell you what type of finish is recomended.

I'm gonna be at a daily driven 10-12 lbs. on a stock CT, and from everything I've read on here, I should be good. I'm replacing all gaskets on the head and all hoses as well, so as long as I do the proper break-in and use my head (my brain, not mechanical), the OEM gasket should suit my needs perfectly.
 

gaboonviper85

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sure but how long can you resist turning up the boost? For what your doing the head will not need any special finish....for a basic head gasket the finish will be straight forward...right off the head mill machine and onto you block...no laping will be needed...infact if it was to smooth there would be nothing the paper gasket could grip onto...too smooth with a paper gasket would for sure cause it to blow...it would probably blow between cylinders at that point.