proper 7mgte rebuild

[Needboost]

before anyone says it i have searched and have read and studyed many threads on 7mgte rebuilds. but i was wondering if there was a thread that covered every aspect of this motor such as from measuremnts to small details to installing parts etc. planning on buying a gte soon and rebulding making sure i learn from the best and do it the proper way. im just confused on how to find if when you need standard or oversized bearing i kno you use plastiguage but not sure of the right order. thank you for what information i recieve.

 

[hvyman]

Generally when you take the crank to the machine shop along with the head block rods and pistons, he will tell you if it needs standard or 10/20 over. Then you double check his work with plastigauge. Keep the cap side thrust washers out until final torqueing.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=1
Click on head or block for info pics and torque specs.

 

[Needboost]

thanks hvyman i have taken automotive classes and my teacher just always used plastiguage and automatically said if it needed oversized or standard and has never really explained it to us why and how he found out.so what i need to do is take the bare block to a machine shop he will measure it and will also take my crank main caps rods etc and he will will let me kno all this. then i would be able to buy all the materiales i need and that when the machineing will take place. not going to lie havent ever delt with a machine shop just trying to learn the procedure.

 

[hvyman]

First and foremost. Look for the best machine shop even if 3 hours away.

Take the engine apart.
then bring him
Block head and all internals. Done need to take the head apart. And if using the same pistons dont need to take the rods off the pistons. He wont need any bearings either.

You then
machine head and block for mhg. 30ra or better. Make sure he machines the block with the rear timing cover as the head sits on it and if not it will raise the head not sealing the gasket all the way.
get rods and pistons checked
at bare min hone the cylinder walls.
polish the crank(at which time he will measure it)
Everything has to be hot tank(there are better ways to wash but that is a general term)
valve job. Expensive but worth it. He will adjust everything at that point also.
Buy new oil pump drive shaft bearing & freeze plugs from toyota. generic freeze plugs tend to pop out. use toyota.
Have him install those for you. IF you want you can install the freeze plugs but its better if he fucks up cause it wont cost you.
He should check the line bore in the mains but you can tell him anyways.
And good machine shops will already have a torque plate for the 7m if he needs to bore for new pistons.

I think thats about it. Other than all that its pretty straight forward. Just check check and double check your work. Try to stay as clean as possible when bui8lding it and keep the bearings spot less. DOnt oil the back of the bearings. Gloves are good to have. Maybe a couple boxes of the thick ones. Cheap ones tend to break easier.
Taking pictures might help so you dont forget.

Fixing all the problems with your harness while its out is a very good idea. Or send it to someone.(i do wiring and there is dr tweak at phoenixtuning.com)

IF you go on sf there is elmhurst and champion toyota to get discounts from.

 

[Needboost]

im planning on jsut doing a stock rebuild for now so that i can get use to te 7m and at a later time upgrade and rebuild it after i have the feel of everything. im probly going to get the motor in the next few days and start going through it. thanks you for the info. i plan on replcing pistions and getting eerything hot tanked and probly used npr pistions but plan on having the head tore apart and cleaned and new seals and probly get valves resurfaced and the 3 angle valve job like said. here a guy in town that does alot of work for VIR raceway hopefully he will br]e good and not to bad on the prices either if not im probly taking it to chesapeak where i know they work on 7ms

 

[hvyman]

I would forget about looking for the cheapest person. GO to the person with the most experiance with 7m's if possible. Expect to pay atleast 1k including a valve job. Valve job is usually around 600. About 25$ a valve and we have 24...

 

[suprarich]

Valve job should be no more than 300.

 

[90mkiiisupra400hp]

I was just wondering if you need the torque plate for doing the line bore as I would imagine any of the flexing of the block would screw that up too. I don't know if it is needed but I plan on having my spare block machined soon for rebuild and nobody in this state has a torque plate for the 7m because there are very few around.

 

[Needboost]

Valve job should be no more than 300.

yea im going to check on prices today

 

[Blackdawg]

cost me 750ish for all my crank block and head work. Nothing extensive was done to the head tho. Go to the best guy you can find tho man. These motors are great if built right but man oh man if you do it wrong....BOOM!

 

[Devin LeBlanc]

3 angle valve job is 250.00 here in Vegas.. Should be no more than 300 though.

 

[suprarich]

I was just wondering if you need the torque plate for doing the line bore as I would imagine any of the flexing of the block would screw that up too. I don't know if it is needed but I plan on having my spare block machined soon for rebuild and nobody in this state has a torque plate for the 7m because there are very few around.

Yes, the torque plate should be on during the line bore or line hone.

 

[Needboost]

well ive been doing some research
and im going to be using arp for everything such as head studs, main studs, and rod bolts. and npr pistions heard they were as good as oem pistions. and im hoping to use a 1.2 or 1.4mm headgasket. but what do i tell the machinest does it depend on how much material he has to remove to make a clean mating surface and then would he would let me kno what size mhg i would have to get to replace the material he removed? and with doing that i kno that i would be changing my compression. but what will changing my compression effect and would other modifications have to be done?. im sorry if im asking noob questions jus trying to figure some stuff out. thanks guys

 

[Devin LeBlanc]

NPR are weaker than stock.. NPR=Not Performance Rated

 

[mk3_7m]

NPR are weaker than stock.. NPR=Not Performance Rated

haha I remembered that quote of IJ. I suppose it wouldn't hurt for a daily.. not sure about street car depends on driving habits and tune. But if it's gonna be a track car or drag then i'd be definantly looking somewhere else. but IMO a piston is only as good as the person setting it up.

 

[shipkiller]

wow, this thread is full of good information, it should be stickied or something.

now, what if you want to make a 600rwhp+ 7mgte, what kind of piston/rod/bearing/whatelse would you need to get. Also, would the instruction mentionned by hyvman still apply or would there be new stuff?

 

[planemos]

I want HVYMAN to post again. He made this thread into a good one.

 

[Van]

7M-assembly-tips
Try this extensive build, write up by "Adjuster". I found it very helpful to me during my build.
HTH Van

 

[Needboost]

7M-assembly-tips
Try this extensive build, write up by "Adjuster". I found it very helpful to me during my build.
HTH Van

yea he has alot of helpful information in his post

 

[Needboost]

i kno that a 7mge is moslty the same as thye gte but i guess i just keep worrying about the turbo. ive never really delt with much turboed engines i guess thats the main thing im worried about i know that i need to take more precautions with a turboed engine that a n/a. but thanks for all the helpful tips guys hopefully will be tearing into soon. and will probly be asking alot more questions.lol whats a good pistion to use for a build thats shooting for 300hp since yall said npr is weak im going to try and use mostly oem toyota parts on this also.