Project Daily Drifter (56k... probably not)
- Thread starter Moy
- Start date
Update... getting closer! CPS is installed, just need to either find my bottle of liquid thread sealant or buy more so that I can redo the NPT fittings in the oil system... the teflon tape lets shit leak by, it's terrible.
I'm having good luck using "aviation" sealant, similar to the soft stuff for most motorcycle gaskets.
Glad to see you've completed the oiling system.
Please label your lines and block adapter appropriately in direction of flow and save yourself the headache I've lost 6 months to.
Covering the conclusion for post 101
Suprastroker88's oiling issues stemmed from a split crank.
The engine siezed on hot main bearings. When the split got large enough, the sudden seizing jolt must have seperated the halves.
No bearings desintegrated, just very very worn, minimal debris in the pan.
AUX shaft had nearly 1/8" of play, trashed: this issue has been on going a long time.
And so I think someone installed a dropped and not straightened crank, forcing it down with the main bearing caps.
Or a serious tightening of the mains, front to back, left to right and not in torque sequence.
Can't think of another way to generate the characteristics of wear and seperation at the crank split.
I've got the crank on my work bench, but my camera has FTP'd. I'll put it on my build thread when I get good pics done.
Glad to see you've completed the oiling system.
Please label your lines and block adapter appropriately in direction of flow and save yourself the headache I've lost 6 months to.
Covering the conclusion for post 101
Suprastroker88's oiling issues stemmed from a split crank.
The engine siezed on hot main bearings. When the split got large enough, the sudden seizing jolt must have seperated the halves.
No bearings desintegrated, just very very worn, minimal debris in the pan.
AUX shaft had nearly 1/8" of play, trashed: this issue has been on going a long time.
And so I think someone installed a dropped and not straightened crank, forcing it down with the main bearing caps.
Or a serious tightening of the mains, front to back, left to right and not in torque sequence.
Can't think of another way to generate the characteristics of wear and seperation at the crank split.
I've got the crank on my work bench, but my camera has FTP'd. I'll put it on my build thread when I get good pics done.
I'm giving up on this project. I'm having a buddy come over to take a look at it and hopefully fix it, but it's an electrical problem that I can't sort out. I'm at wits end with this car. I'm pretty sure I've got a short somewhere and fuck that shit.
Moy;1717570 said:
Hah. Fuck that post
Update:
IT...IS...ALIVE!!!!!!!!
now to diagnose this issue of it not staying running without my foot on the pedal. I also need to readjust the TPS so that it's within an acceptable parameter for the GE electronics. I'll have to redo it when I put the GTE shit back in.
Yes. Eventually. Haha. I'll get some up soon
By the way, the GTE electronics... something is not right. I'm going to change the wiring on the GTE harness with fresh wires and then swap back over the electronics, currently it is running on the original GE electronics. So GTE engine with GE electronics is basically a low compression NA-T.
The rough running issue could be from the 440cc injectors running on the GE electronics
By the way, the GTE electronics... something is not right. I'm going to change the wiring on the GTE harness with fresh wires and then swap back over the electronics, currently it is running on the original GE electronics. So GTE engine with GE electronics is basically a low compression NA-T.
The rough running issue could be from the 440cc injectors running on the GE electronics
[video]http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o120/skaskank99/?action=view¤t=MOV03331.mp4[/video]
Video of it running.
I have code 27: sub-heated O2 sensor. Is a Cali thing, I don't have the sensor for it anymore, nor do I have a stock exhaust. How do I jumper the plug to get that code to stop showing up?
I also have code 52: knock sensor. I'm going to replace the sensor and then ground the shielding at the sensor. I had to splice in a connector because I for some reason before cut off the plug... It JUST popped up though, it wasn't there last night when I had it running...
I also have a few oil leaks that I'm trying to pinpoint. I'm positive of one at the turbo oil drain gasket leaking. That's an active drip drip drip. Another possibility is from the block adapter for my oil cooler, but I just resealed that yesterday...
Video of it running.
I have code 27: sub-heated O2 sensor. Is a Cali thing, I don't have the sensor for it anymore, nor do I have a stock exhaust. How do I jumper the plug to get that code to stop showing up?
I also have code 52: knock sensor. I'm going to replace the sensor and then ground the shielding at the sensor. I had to splice in a connector because I for some reason before cut off the plug... It JUST popped up though, it wasn't there last night when I had it running...
I also have a few oil leaks that I'm trying to pinpoint. I'm positive of one at the turbo oil drain gasket leaking. That's an active drip drip drip. Another possibility is from the block adapter for my oil cooler, but I just resealed that yesterday...
Did the KS rewire. Changed the turbo oil drain gasket at the block. Still had an oil leak. Turned out to be the rubber O-ring on the Canton block adapter. Used a shit ton of RTV, hopefully that'll stop the leak. Also cleaned and polished the place that the o-ring would sit...
I hate this leak. "Fixed" it and it actually got worse >.<
Just ordered a replacement o-ring kit for the Canton Racing block adapter, so hopefully new gaskets will fix the leak :/
Just ordered a replacement o-ring kit for the Canton Racing block adapter, so hopefully new gaskets will fix the leak :/
I think I'm going to remove the Canton piece and plumb the stock shit back in just so that I can drive the damn car. I'll block off the lines somehow so that the oil doesn't leak :/
Okay I officially need help. I have a perpetual oil leak that's coming from either the turbo oil feed or where the oil filter mount is. It leaks from both the stock filter mount and the Canton block adapter. I'm not sure what the hell it could be. Only things it can be are A) bad o-ring seal B) cracked block C) warped block
How often does that area crack or warp?
How often does that area crack or warp?
Put the filter straight onto the block after cleaning off the gasket area on the block with a die grinder/polishing pad. There was still a leak. But not from the filter
It's the damn block-off plate UNDER the filter >.<
New gasket is here today, will be installing tomorrow. Also got my shipment of Kano Lab's "AeroKroil" penetrating lube that I'll be trying out on some frozen parts tomorrow. A classmate (aerospace and mechanical engineer) swears by the stuff. One of the smartest people I know, so I trust his recommendations
It's the damn block-off plate UNDER the filter >.<
New gasket is here today, will be installing tomorrow. Also got my shipment of Kano Lab's "AeroKroil" penetrating lube that I'll be trying out on some frozen parts tomorrow. A classmate (aerospace and mechanical engineer) swears by the stuff. One of the smartest people I know, so I trust his recommendations
Sweet so all of my leaks are fixed, I've got it running on the GTE harness with no knock code anymore thanks to a KS rewire kit that SupraofDoom had laying around.
Now I need to fix an exhaust leak. Leaking where the DP meets the turbo, causing the O2 to read lean and dump fuel. That's why it falls flat on it's face and I get shit gas mileage.
Fix that, then get my diff rebuilt with a Weir MaxGrip kit. Then buy SupraSport SS traction arms.
Hopefully I'll be getting a T4 manifold soon so I can start modifying it to be able to use a Sound Performance QSV
I'll get vids and pics up eventually
Now I need to fix an exhaust leak. Leaking where the DP meets the turbo, causing the O2 to read lean and dump fuel. That's why it falls flat on it's face and I get shit gas mileage.
Fix that, then get my diff rebuilt with a Weir MaxGrip kit. Then buy SupraSport SS traction arms.
Hopefully I'll be getting a T4 manifold soon so I can start modifying it to be able to use a Sound Performance QSV
I'll get vids and pics up eventually
Sweet Build thread I love to see more mk3's out there drifting! Let me know how you like the weir max grip kit for the lsd.. also which one are you going to get? Im going to be getting the stage 3 drift drag kit that is just shimms with no spring and converts it into the complete locker for drift/drag but just drift in my case haha. I talked to bill sherman about it as well given he did something similar with his diff and shimmed it so it locks like a 2way and he said that weir is good stuff!
Damn I bet it felt good to finally get those leaks taken care of. Love that people are drifting Supras!
I plan on getting the stage one kit as the car is still a daily driver. It's going into an 88 diff (3.91) that has a stronger spring than the later model diffs. I'm still contemplating having the discs shot peened to remove some of the coating so I can achieve a higher BAT. Not sure yet.
I DID get it pretty dammed sideways last night. First gear, clutch kick, probably 45-60* from straight and threw it from a left hand drift to a right around a corner. Shifted into second and continued the drift. Felt pretty damn good.
I DO need to fix my downpipe gasket and exhaust leak, though. It's causing me to dump too much fuel. I'm also hitting fuel cut... that's also interesting going around a corner LOL
Btw, there was no traffic around when I did this and was in an abandoned parking lot in an industrial area
I DID get it pretty dammed sideways last night. First gear, clutch kick, probably 45-60* from straight and threw it from a left hand drift to a right around a corner. Shifted into second and continued the drift. Felt pretty damn good.
I DO need to fix my downpipe gasket and exhaust leak, though. It's causing me to dump too much fuel. I'm also hitting fuel cut... that's also interesting going around a corner LOL
Btw, there was no traffic around when I did this and was in an abandoned parking lot in an industrial area
