Progress... if you can call it that

Midwest_Mudder

New Member
we'll start this thread in april of 2011, i was just finishing up college, and i saw a doo doo brown MK3 up near the college i attended. it was an automatic non turbo and the uh "propietario" 1 couldnt speak a touch of english, and 2 had no idea what OIL was. it was overpriced by around 3000 dollars, so i pased on that and moved on. 2 weeks later i found a white 5speed non turbo. motor was rebuilt by a shop in omaha, everything in the motor was done right. car was... rough... to say the least


i was low on money, and the local area wasnt exactly rip for the missing parts. i cleaned up what i could of the interior issues, fixed all the lil wiring gremlins and replaced all the vacuum lines. the car ran great, pulled about as good as a non turbo can. but like i said, no money, job outlook with a crim justice degree was somewhat bleak, so to pay for insurance on my daily, gas, and housing, i sold the car. i regretted it, but, there wasnt anything i could really do. so i *somewhat* moved on. a year goes by and i pick up my current job dispatching EMS helicopters, pay is ok, the amount of BS we deal with isnt, but its steady, so i bought a house, and a daily driver, and a terrorist dog


so i started to budget my money for another fun car. something i could put in the garage and put money to, take my time with, and just generally enjoy. so after dealing with dumbass after dumbass with rusted out, beat to hell cars, i finally find a guy willing to make a decent deal. so about 4 weeks ago a buddy of mine and i set out with a truck, a car trailer, and 2500 bucks. by the end of the day we had drove nearly 8 hours worth and picked up 2 supras. 1 was a recovered car from a storage unit auction, the other, a clean shell that WAS a full car, garage kept and babied from a guy in Indiana. the black car (87 non turbo 5speed car) has no rust, no missing interior parts, glass is straight, EVERYTHING works, and (be it good or bad) it has a working dealer added sunroof. the white car (89 turbo 5speed) was recovered from a storage unit, leather interior is a goner, body panels are pretty bad. BUT the motor/tranny are low mileage and havent been messed with. the black car has a good motor/tranny, but its currently out. my plan was to just stick the NA motor back int and have a go with it while i built the turbo motor. i nixed that idea due to some of the missing parts (motor mounts, exhaust...) so the turbo motor needed to come out. compression tests showed equal compression across all 6 cylinders, HG test showed no gasses in the antifreeze. once again, i may be changing my plan, but the plan was a re-torque of the head bolts, new clutch, and new gaskets. but during the removal phase i found lots of old cracked rubber. accordion pipe is a goner, the bypass hose is a goner. so, i feel its time to do this right.


im not shooting for HUGE numbers (yes im saying this now), id like to have a 300-350hp car for this summer. which, popular opinion at least states, a stock headgasket and arp studs should be good for. (thats NEW stock HG). ive built high HP v8s, and power/fuel hungry diesels (ford 6.0/7.3) so studs/proper gaskets are a standard before putting power/boost to anything. just currently looking for all new hoses, arp head studs, stock head gasket (will be swapped winter 2014 for MHG and better internals), and i already have a full set of gaskets.



just noticed my texas motor speedway flag fell down... sad day
 

Grandavi

Active Member
Sep 25, 2008
2,663
5
38
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
OEM headgasket is fine, however.. after seeing 4 of them fail, I am a huge proponent of metal headgaskets. It means more work to prep the block, but its one headache dealt with if you do it properly.
Also, just to be aware that when you pull the head, if its been run for some time with a leaking headgasket you may find pitting from the exhaust gas and coolant becoming corrosive to the block. At that point, because your going to have to get rid of the pits to do it right, you may as well go with the metal head gasket because your going to have to machine the block anyway.

This is just my opinion of course, as a fellow Supra owner. Im not a mechanic.. lol.
 

Midwest_Mudder

New Member
i know how that goes. and the head is getting pulled no matter what, OEM vs MHG will be determined by how the block and the head look. if there is anything even suspect ill run it down to a buddy of mine and will get it done right.
 

Grandavi

Active Member
Sep 25, 2008
2,663
5
38
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
In my opinion, if you have the opportunity... Go Mhg. That is doing it right.
My engine had 30,000 km (about 20,000 miles) and seemed rock solid, however, when I pulled the head cylinder 5 and 6 had already just begun to let go.

To me its a flaw with the exhaust side getting hotter on 5/6 and letting go ever so slightly.
I have had 3 BHG's, all at that point.
 

Midwest_Mudder

New Member
i do find that odd. ive read through a good bunch of the build threads on here and HG failure near the 5/6 cylinders seems to be the most common. the back cylinders are the hottest on almost all straight 6 motors ive dealt with (my 4.0l in my jeep, the 300 in my brothers ford...) i need to get a buddy in on this but the last time he lifted the head on his cummins it was the same way (that could have been due to the non matched injectors and a glitched tuner though).

and yes, MHG is the RIGHT do it once and forget it way. but to get it on the road for the summer, if the head isnt messed up, i think the OEM style HG will be fine.