Powering Car without Motor???

MA70witBoost

Registered Drifter
Seeing as the electrical portion of SM is (hopefuly) temporarily closed I was wondering how to power the electrical components of the car without the motor being in the bay. Im sure it can be done. Pending money to rebuild the motor (wich has been removed) Im trying to keep myself entertained and progress moving forward with my Supra. Figure that If im not doing body work prepping for paint I should take advantage of the down time to try to fix the electrical problems the car has. How do I provide power to all electrical components if the motors out? :1zhelp:
 

blackkarma

MoN-sTaR
Jan 17, 2007
335
0
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jacksonville, nc
just add an alternating relay they run about 52 bucks, they plug up to your house socket allowing you to run all the vehicles functions.


















or









pay no attention to this BS and just hookup your battery and bam 12v's. then hook the battery charger to keep the 12v's up.
 

MA70witBoost

Registered Drifter
blackkarma;1657714 said:
just add an alternating relay they run about 52 bucks, they plug up to your house socket allowing you to run all the vehicles functions.

or

pay no attention to this BS and just hookup your battery and bam 12v's. then hook the battery charger to keep the 12v's up.

Oooooooh, Its been a while since my bay has been properly assembled but if I remember correctly, the possitive cable of the battery goes to the starter. Actually, I think I recall a auxillary wire comming from the terminal to the fuse box... With a properly charged battery all I have to do is provide power to the wire going to the fuse box and the car will have power?
 

survyor2

New Member
Jun 19, 2005
171
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West Palm Beach, Florida, United States
I'm not sure if simply connecting the battery will work or not, but before you do that, put an inline fuse between the positive battery terminal and the power cable just in case something is grounded out somewere. You don't have to solder it, just something temporary so you know its safe before you proceed.

Dennis
 

gats

Rebuilding... Slowly!
Mar 3, 2009
182
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Sydney, NSW
MA70witBoost;1657797 said:
Oooooooh, Its been a while since my bay has been properly assembled but if I remember correctly, the possitive cable of the battery goes to the starter. Actually, I think I recall a auxillary wire comming from the terminal to the fuse box... With a properly charged battery all I have to do is provide power to the wire going to the fuse box and the car will have power?

Yep, there are 2 wires from the +ve terminal - One to the starter and one to the fuse box. Simply connect a fully charged battery back up and away you go, the car will have power again!
But definitely make sure that the end of the starter cable is NOT touching the car at all. Maybe wrap the end in some electrical tape just to be safe...
 

blackkarma

MoN-sTaR
Jan 17, 2007
335
0
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38
jacksonville, nc
gats hit the nail on the head our cars arent as complicated as one may think....electronics are all run from the battery and the ignition switch.
 

gottadiesel

Flyin Low
Feb 16, 2009
459
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Vancouver, Washington
Also keep in mind, you have numerous sensors on the motor that are supplied voltage, so make sure you either have them connected (removed from motor or accessories to motor and connected to harness) or isolate the connectors to insure none of them is shorted to ground... ie - TPS, ICSV, AFM, O2 etc...

Also the in-line fuse discussed above, do not put too large of a value fuse in, as you are not running all systems without motor so you want one just large enough to power what you want to test, but not too large that something is damaged, though they would still have their own fuse circuits, but never-the-less... personally I would just test items one at a time and use a 20amp fuse to start with...
 

MA70witBoost

Registered Drifter
gottadiesel;1657897 said:
Also keep in mind, you have numerous sensors on the motor that are supplied voltage, so make sure you either have them connected (removed from motor or accessories to motor and connected to harness) or isolate the connectors to insure none of them is shorted to ground... ie - TPS, ICSV, AFM, O2 etc...

Also the in-line fuse discussed above, do not put too large of a value fuse in, as you are not running all systems without motor so you want one just large enough to power what you want to test, but not too large that something is damaged, though they would still have their own fuse circuits, but never-the-less... personally I would just test items one at a time and use a 20amp fuse to start with...
Head, harness and ECU are sitting inside the house. No sensors should be getting any power to my knowledge. But yeah, Thanks for all the help guys. :)
 

SC61 MK3

New Member
Apr 4, 2005
316
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FL
+1 on the fuse before the battery, can never be to careful.

Also I would use a digital multimeter (even a cheap crappy one from harbor freight will work) to check to see if the main wire or anything else is grounded out before you connect it to the battery. Also get some type of charger to make sure you don't drain your battery
 

MA70witBoost

Registered Drifter
SC61 MK3;1658052 said:
+1 on the fuse before the battery, can never be to careful.

Also I would use a digital multimeter (even a cheap crappy one from harbor freight will work) to check to see if the main wire or anything else is grounded out before you connect it to the battery. Also get some type of charger to make sure you don't drain your battery
Oh, i have a decent multimeter. I know a bit about electrical too. Just got to now find the time and desire to do it. Was thinking of using my free time seeing as i was collecting unemployment but I got called back for work starting monday.