I saw someone else having this same problem posted. However, I don't know what my issue is. Here it goes; fresh rebuilt motor installed in the car. Battery relocated to trunk. When I hooked up the battery the door panel lights come on when they are open, door ajar dinner dings, headlights come on and function. All fuses are good. When I turn the key to start, relay in passenger floorboard clicks, as well as something clicking directly behind brake distribution block. With a meter down at the starter, I have full time 12 volts at the terminal and I get 12 volts at the signal wire when someone turns the key. When I turn the key inside the car, I hear various clicks as stated. The relay in the kick panel clicks once, the clicking by brake block clicks twice. The orange tail light indicator above the TEMS light lights up when the key is turned. Additionally, I have no piwer in any of the diagnostic box ports. I need an OG here I will be very great fun for any insight here guys, really. I've read tons of threads and can't narrow down further than I have already. I've read about a starter kill switch, where is this and can I test if it's activated? The security light isn't lit up if anyone wonders and I think the alarm has been removed I can't find the box for it.
power at starter but not turning
- Thread starter farristrey
- Start date
Well, if there's 12vdc at the starter and also at the starter trigger (both capable of delivering the current required) the starter will operate unless it's faulty or ungrounded. Simple as that.
Any info as to why I have nothing on the B+ terminal on diagnostic box? I have a negative cable going from negative battery post to the block ground, so would that not ground the starter?
Just an update, I also tried to ohm out the end resistor and I get nothing from any of the 4 pins to any other pin...bad? I'm sure this issue is separate from my starter but I'm lost guys. Electrical isn't my forte.
Just an update, I also tried to ohm out the end resistor and I get nothing from any of the 4 pins to any other pin...bad? I'm sure this issue is separate from my starter but I'm lost guys. Electrical isn't my forte.
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Main Relay needs to be on for +B at the box:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=48
Does the MIL come on with the key? If so the relay is closed.
Yeah, the starter should be grounded with your setup. If there's really 12 volts there it should at least make some noises.
Good job on the neg cable to block btw. It's the correct way. Lots of people don't do that and may be paying a price even though they don't realize it.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=48
Does the MIL come on with the key? If so the relay is closed.
Yeah, the starter should be grounded with your setup. If there's really 12 volts there it should at least make some noises.
Good job on the neg cable to block btw. It's the correct way. Lots of people don't do that and may be paying a price even though they don't realize it.
What is the MIL light? And where is the main relay? The efi relay in engine compartment fuse box does not click at all under any conditions but it does ohm out. I'm at a loss. I have more than one problem here. I hook a battery straight to the starter and jumped it out. It engages hard, but spins VERY slowly off a good battery. So I think it's toast.
I'm not getting a check engine light though and I've read that means something important but what does that mean?
Unfortunately it means the starter is the least of your worries. It also means you need to find (maybe even pay) someone who is electrically competent.
so how did you ground the block to the battery if you relocated it in the trunk? Did you just run a wire all the way to the block from the post or what. I would like to know because I also put my battery in the truck but grounded to the chassis.
I grounded my battery to the chassis and also ran a wire all the way to the engine ground. And jetjock, unfortunately taking the car to someone isn't an option right now. I don't believe I have any power at the ecu, I don't get a check engine light and I don't get any power at the efi relay. I can use an electrical meter, but I'm looking for a starting point where I can begin. I've got the starter where it's operating on the key now, so no issues with security and what not. Just the starter is bad. Now, I'm looking for a good starting point to see why efi relay doesn't click (relay is good) and I'm not getting power to ecu.
Refer here and previous two pages:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=49
First, the ECU needs power on terminal BATT. Should be there all the time.
Then, when the key is turned on:
1) Ignition switch supplies power (through 7 amp IG fuse) to ECU terminal IGSW.
2) This "wakes" the ECU which then turns on the main relay (efi relay) by outputting 12 volts on terminal M-REL.
3) Main Relay sends 12 volts (+B) to diag block and ECU terminals +B and +B1. The ECU is now fully powered.
4) ECU turns on the MIL (check engine light) by putting ground on terminal W.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=49
First, the ECU needs power on terminal BATT. Should be there all the time.
Then, when the key is turned on:
1) Ignition switch supplies power (through 7 amp IG fuse) to ECU terminal IGSW.
2) This "wakes" the ECU which then turns on the main relay (efi relay) by outputting 12 volts on terminal M-REL.
3) Main Relay sends 12 volts (+B) to diag block and ECU terminals +B and +B1. The ECU is now fully powered.
4) ECU turns on the MIL (check engine light) by putting ground on terminal W.
I will check these when I get home from work and report back. According to the troubleshoot page, I need to take ecu plug off, remove the lock piece, then plug back in and start checking for voltage with my meter starting with the ones you mentioned. I'll update in a few hours.
They are. I checked them last night. There's 4 wires on one or two ring terminals bolted to lower intake.jetjock;2050362 said:
Can you try removing the starter relay located behind passenger kick panel and jump the terminal as I did? This is just to rule out the factory alarm issue. Check above the steering column under the dash near the firewall and see if there's a little black box.
I actually think I ruled out the alarm issue already. The starter relay in passenger kick panel clicks as it should when key is turned. Also, I get 12 volts to the starter trigger wire. I wouldn't imagine this would happen if any other alarms were active. The light on the dash I thought was alarm was actually tail lamp indicator. The security light isn't flashing. As for the theft deterrent box, I believe previous owner removed it along with an aftermarket alarm that was installed. I looked for the tdds box under steering column and nothing except what look like two plugs where it used to be. The starter turns over with key not albeit slow. I'll be able to check the ecu for power after work in a couple hours as jet jock suggested. I'll report findings although I can't see that it is. My efi relay is good and doesn't click. Thanks for all the input.nhum;2050368 said:
OK guys. Just put a meter on my BATT terminal going to ecu. It has 12 volts. Nothing at IGSW terminal. My fuses in kick panel are good they had 12 volts on both sides of fuse. So I'm trying to think of what to do from here. Is there a relay or switch between the fuse box and the ecu? I at least now know why no functions are working, it's because my ecu isn't getting the "wake up" signal from ignition switch wire.
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IG2 powers only the ecu, igniter/ignition coils, and fuel injectors.
Check for 12V at all of those components.
Check for 12V at all of those components.
I only checked at IGSW. As I thought this is the one that woke ecu up and if it didn't have power the ecu wouldn't be "awake" and it had no power with key on. Reading through the online troubleshoot guide I was checking voltage at IGSW using a body ground, should I have been using another terminal with IGSW? I'll look at the others also. Lol, and I just noticed that my icon says "lurker" under it and that I was an mkII owner. I don't think I listed the celica supra I had? The mkII is how I caught the bug though.
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What 3p said. You should have 12 volts at those items and at the 7.5 ign fuse:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=16
If you have that power (it should go on and off with the key) but have nothing at IGSW there's a break somewhere in between and yer just gonna have to hunt it down.
The fuse block (JB1) has connectors on the rear. If you pull it out to check them be sure the bolt holding it goes back in as it's a ground point for other systems. The feed for IGSW also goes through connector B1 on pin 16. Look in the book to find where that connector is located.
Course, make sure you're actually on IGSW and not some other terminal. And don't cheat by jumpering 12 volts to it. Get it wrong and bad things could happen...
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=16
If you have that power (it should go on and off with the key) but have nothing at IGSW there's a break somewhere in between and yer just gonna have to hunt it down.
The fuse block (JB1) has connectors on the rear. If you pull it out to check them be sure the bolt holding it goes back in as it's a ground point for other systems. The feed for IGSW also goes through connector B1 on pin 16. Look in the book to find where that connector is located.
Course, make sure you're actually on IGSW and not some other terminal. And don't cheat by jumpering 12 volts to it. Get it wrong and bad things could happen...
I was on IGSW for sure. And i do have 12 volts at ig fuse, I guess I need to just follow this wire to wherever it goes under the dash? And your saying this same IGSW also feeds another pin on the ecu? I'm REALLY sorry I'm clueless here, I'm trying to dive in and learn because it's my only option.