Possible cylinder head issue?? Need advice

satx88supra

New Member
Aug 16, 2009
388
0
0
San Antonio
Ok I'm lookin for advice on how, why, or what's going on with my car. I have a 88 Supra turbo and i have a descent build (if you need specs let me know). My issue is that my compression drops after about 2 months of driving the car. This is the fourth time its happened and I'm getting tired of it. The block has been decked and head hot tanked and decked also. The first time i put the car together i used an OG gasket. Car lasted 2 months....no hard driving...and it started "missing" and a little smoke. Check compression and cylinders 2-3 were very low (60psi). Removed head and found the gasket was bad. Bought a new gasket and tried again. 2 months later same thing. Low compresion in 1-2 (85psi). Removed head and gasket bad. Head was torque to 85lbs both times. Bought a metal headgasket due to my power goals changing. Took head in again to verify the head was flat. Shop said it was fine. I don't have the means to verify deck on the block or knowledge at this time. Placed new metal gasket on. Car ran fine for about 2 months and devoloped a "miss". I checked compression and 1-2cylinders low (90psi). I have the head off again and can see that the metal head gasket is coated in and oil/coolant film. All leaks were in the exhaust side of the head. I've done everything possible to get the head gasket to seal other than using stuff like the copper spray. I also bought ARP studs that i used this last yime with the metal gasket torqued @ 85lbs. Sorry for the long post but where am i going wrong. I'm actually starting to think that i have an issue with the head its self as being soft under heat cycles. Please help.
 

ttsupra2503

6'8 BC Giant
Feb 28, 2012
146
0
16
Kelowna, BC
The only thing I can think of is that your head torque isn't staying proper. I know on my 3vz-fe 3.0 v6 you had to recheck the head torque after 5000 miles to make sure that they have stayed torqued. I have also seen a soft head on a 7m motor due to prior overheating being talked about on this website. It was definitely on the exhaust side as well so you might look it up.

Only thing I can think of is trying a different head and make sure that the block and the head are both decked to match.
 

satx88supra

New Member
Aug 16, 2009
388
0
0
San Antonio
Yes the block was machined with the cover.

My plan was to retorque the head after the 5000mile mark on the first try. I didn't make it that far before i noticedissues. By the time i got the metal gasket i was going to do it after 1500miles but didn't make that either. I running out of money due to my lovely kids and the need to show them i love them during this time of the year....lol...just kiddin....but that is slowing me down. I'm just tired of getting stopped at this point in this process of getting the car to be a steady ride. I don't want to keep putting money into this one issue after I've done everything possible to stop it. I saw an article about soft aluminum ...i forget the term they used. How or should i check for this. Also i will be able to use the metal gasket again right. Iys an HKS 2mm.
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
16,757
0
0
42
Fort Worth, TX
If you haven't retorqued at all, that's probably your issue.

If the head was annealed, the machine shop wouldn't have said it was straight still.
 

ttsupra2503

6'8 BC Giant
Feb 28, 2012
146
0
16
Kelowna, BC
See... I would have waited longer myself lol good to have guys around to confirm stuff.

Personally I would try another head now since your having so many issues. Make the next job last eh...

Good luck
 

satx88supra

New Member
Aug 16, 2009
388
0
0
San Antonio
Ok im going to try and source out another head and have it checked . I'm a going to clean up my head gasket and try this head while I'm waiting to source another. I will perform the re-torque as suggested after 3-5 heat cycles.

Has anyone heard of Clearwater Cylinder Heads Inc.? They are based out if Florida. Is $450 a good price for a cylinder head?
 

VanSupra

Supramania Contributor
Mar 31, 2005
803
0
0
Van,B.C.
What are you using for lube when torquing the head? Are you using the arp ultra torque lube or some other type? ARP hardware requires their lube specifically as thats how all of the torque values are spec'd. And 90ftlbs is their revised torque spec for head studs I believe. When you released the head after finding out your comp was low are there any nuts or bolts that have slacked off of their original torque value? Are you running a tap thru each bolt hole and cleaning them before every reinstallation of the studs or bolts? When they checked the head did your shop just check
for a straight and square head,'or just the gasket surface
for flatness?
 

satx88supra

New Member
Aug 16, 2009
388
0
0
San Antonio
I used the ARP lube that came with the studs and nuts. I did use a thread chaser before installing the studs. I can't remember what was checked on the head. I have re-installed gasket and head ....torqued to 85ftlbs. I know car hasn't been started to bring it to operating temp but i went ahead and did a leak down test and it reads that im in the low range across all cylinders. This IS a better read right before i took it apart. Hopefully by the time i get back home i can have it started within the next 7-10 days. I guess i'll also go to 90ftlbs.
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
16,757
0
0
42
Fort Worth, TX
satx88supra;1898670 said:
I used the ARP lube that came with the studs and nuts. I did use a thread chaser before installing the studs. I can't remember what was checked on the head. I have re-installed gasket and head ....torqued to 85ftlbs. I know car hasn't been started to bring it to operating temp but i went ahead and did a leak down test and it reads that im in the low range across all cylinders. This IS a better read right before i took it apart. Hopefully by the time i get back home i can have it started within the next 7-10 days. I guess i'll also go to 90ftlbs.

Go by the spec ARP sent with your studs.