Possible CSI problem?

[st2b]

Well the car has ALWAYS been started fine even in 20-F weather. It's a 87, 7m-ge, with 70k miles on the engine.

Brand new starter, plugs, alternator, battery, and other misc things.

So, I go to start the car (Just filled it up with gas), and it barely fires. After 2 minutes of constantly trying, it starts to rise (RPM's), get's to 500Revs and slowly dies. It does this for about 10 more tries.

I try giving it a little gas, and nothing.

After 10 minutes it finally idles properly, but hesitates when floored (Until completely warmed up).

Also I am seeing between 40-80psi on the oil pressure gauge, reading 14 volts, and 20inHg. at idle (Vac pressure).

So here's what I've got from searching.

1. MAF - plugged in properly
2. Check codes - Only reading the knock sensor (The wire is cut)
3. Plugs & wires - Brand new, gapped, and all installed fine.
4. Vac leak - 20 inHg at idle, about 25 at de-acceleration, and around 2 when given 80-100% throttle
5. Throttle position sensor - Plugged in, and no codes are being given
6. Cold start injector - Plug is in, I had the injectors (All 7) sent off and cleaned along with the fuel rail.

Compression is fine.

Can anyone help?

Thanks guys!
Matt

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Well the car has ALWAYS been started fine even in 20-F weather. It's a 87, 7m-ge, with 70k miles on the engine.

Brand new starter, plugs, alternator, battery, and other misc things.

So, I go to start the car (Just filled it up with gas), and it barely fires. After 2 minutes of constantly trying, it starts to rise (RPM's), get's to 500Revs and slowly dies. It does this for about 10 more tries.

I try giving it a little gas, and nothing.

After 10 minutes it finally idles properly, but hesitates when floored (Until completely warmed up).

Also I am seeing between 40-80psi on the oil pressure gauge, reading 14 volts, and 20inHg. at idle (Vac pressure).

So here's what I've got from searching.

1. MAF - plugged in properly
2. Check codes - Only reading the knock sensor (The wire is cut)
3. Plugs & wires - Brand new, gapped, and all installed fine.
4. Vac leak - 20 inHg at idle, about 25 at de-acceleration, and around 2 when given 80-100% throttle
5. Throttle position sensor - Plugged in, and no codes are being given
6. Cold start injector - Plug is in, I had the injectors (All 7) sent off and cleaned along with the fuel rail.

Compression is fine.

Can anyone help?

Thanks guys!
Matt

Have you set the TPS according to the TSRM?
If you suspect the CSI there also a check for that in the TSRM.
Another possibility is the Temp sensor or the cold start time switch.

 

[st2b]

Have you set the TPS according to the TSRM?
If you suspect the CSI there also a check for that in the TSRM.
Another possibility is the Temp sensor or the cold start time switch.

Thanks very much man.

I haven't had problems since I re-calibrated the TPS. So I don't suspect that.

But I'll check the TSRM

 

[jetjock]

Keep in mind it's not possible for the CSI to operate unless the key is at the start position. If it's leaking fuel it has to be doing so in the mechanical sense because all power to it (and to the cold start time switch) is removed the moment the key is released from start.

The easiest way to check for this is by either running the CSI out in the open with B and FP jumpered or checking for a decay in fuel rest pressure. Checking rest pressure won't point exactly to the CSI but if rest pressure holds the CSI has to be good.

 

[MmmBoost]

The most likely cause is going to be the switch. Check it per the TSRM, and when verified good, check for +12v and ground at the injector connector during cold start conditions (test light or noid lights make it a breeze). Also the injector itself should be ohmed out to about 2-4 ohms.

TSRM pages FI-77 thru FI-80 for your reference.

Have a look:

 

[st2b]

Thanks very much guys!

Informative posts like these keep my car alive!