Pls advis rookie on painting problem

grsupra87

Let's go Pens!!
Hey, looking for some advice on my Supra repaint project. Sorry, this story is kinda long, but any advice would be most welcome.
I bought my Supra a year ago last May. It had been recently repainted and looked pretty good. There was an area about the size of a shoe that needed repainted on the passenger side front bumper where he had accidentally run over his toolbox in his driveway. The molding was also in pretty rough shape. (It's an 87). I've alway wanted one of these cars, so I bought it. I have put about 15k on it since then, and only had to replace the accordion hose, and a small coolant hose. This spring it developed some bubbly rust on the pass. side rear wheelwell, and some rust under the paint on both front fenders where the mudguard is. Well, upon investigation, both fender bottoms were shot, and had been patched before shoddily. I removed them and got two off of Tubbie to replace them. I also bought 89+ moldings from a member off here as well. And 2 new mudguards. Here's the rusted out fenders.
sm_photo_missing.jpg


So I decided to repaint the car myself, I don't have the funds to have it professionally done. My sister-in-laws boyfriend, who lives next to me said we could do it at his stepdads house, he has a paintbay and everything we would need to do it there, and it was ok with him, and he would also help me out. I have done lotsa bodywork, but have never painted a car before. Also thought it would be a great learning experience.
I put the new fenders on, and started sanding.
sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

So we got it over to the paintbay, finished all the bodywork, and sanding, and then primered and sanded, etc, getting ready for color. I'm painting it the original 3H1
sm_photo_missing.jpg


Well, here's where the problems begin. Chad sprayed the color (he always did the spraying, and that was ok with me since he had the experience doing it). The 3H1 I bought was metallic, so we layed it down in several coats going lenghtwise on a panel first and then cross-wise next so that we didn't get that "striping effect". All seemed ok, went on pretty nice. When we put the clear on, he had some difficulty setting up the gun, and got quite a few runs on it, both quater panel, from the door molding indentation, and a few other places. I wasn't that concerned because I figured we'd cut the runs out with a razorblade (by dragging it over the runs untils flush) sand with 1500 and respray. Well, the next day he got bit by a brown recluse spider on his arm at work (he's a rigger). In two days he was in the hospital with the bite AND a staff infection, fighting to save his arm. After a week, I went over and started working on the runs myself. I got them all out, and sanded it out pretty nicely. EXCEPT...in a few spots I sanded through to the color, and even had some primer come through. I guess the clear wasn't as even as I thought, or I oversanded with there being only 2 coats of clear on it. Anyway, I decided to repray the base color over the spots. It worked out fine! So I cleaned the gun ( I thought very thoroughly), and decided to put the rest of the clear on myself (stupid, I know). When I sprayed, I thought I had the volume, pressure, and fan set well, I checked it against some cardboard, and I started to spray the doors, quarters, and back. It did not go on as it should...it seemed like I had to go really slow to get the paint to lay on. I reallized to late that some of the air holes on the gun had not been cleaned out well enough, and were clogged. So I orangepeeled the clear pretty heavily. Not to be thwarted, I finger-wet-sanded the WHOLE CAR. I then got some DuPont finshing compound and went to work with the buffer, after having it completely sanded down. Well, there are areas where the red did not cover well (under the bottom door crease and the rockers). Also, quite a few areas where the clear looks "hazy" almost like wax put on and not removed. I tried wet sanding each of these areas with 2000 and buffing, but it just won't help. By now, Chad is out of the hospital, and is willing to help me do it over again, and I was scraping up some funds to buy another gallon of color, and a gallon of clear. I have 1 qt. base leftover, and 1.5 quart clear. So after this huge story and debacle, I come to my question. While I was mowing the yard to day, and thinking about the Supra, it dawned on me that I may have enough basecoat, and will only need clear.
Is it possible to sand the car down with like 320, NOT go through the base coat, and then respray the basecoats areas only that need it? Then colorsand and clear? Is this possible, or will it cause me more problems? Should I just start over? Please advise a struggling rookie who really wants my Supra to look like the great car it is.
Thanks, and sorry for the book!
 

Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
2,716
0
0
60
Corvallis OR
I would say if you werent dealing with a metallic color you could blend the areas that needed more base coat...but working with a metallic its going to be near impossible to get everything to match up. I really think your going to have to spray a whole new color coat.
 

grsupra87

Let's go Pens!!
Thanks Weezl. I'm going to start sanding with 600 and see what it looks like. Another guy told me it would probably be ok as long as I did entire PANELS. I need to make sure, I guess that I don't need to redo every panel. Either way, 1 qt, or one gallon, I still gotta sand it down. Thanks for the response. I WILL get this right and be posting "look at my new paint job pics" before too long lol.
 

suprahero

naughty by nature
Staff member
Aug 26, 2005
14,971
0
36
53
Roll Tide
Good luck. Why is your post bigger than the page. I had to go back and fourth to read the thing. It took me forever. I don't know why I read it all the way, cause I know I couldn't offer you any paint help. Just some moral support.

GO Grsupra87.....................lol
 

Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
2,716
0
0
60
Corvallis OR
yeah, actually what the other guy said about painting the panels seperately might work out, but from my experience with painting metallics, its really best to shoot the whole car all at once using an even spray pattern and thickness to get the flake to lay the same.
 

grsupra87

Let's go Pens!!
theWeezL said:
yeah, actually what the other guy said about painting the panels seperately might work out, but from my experience with painting metallics, its really best to shoot the whole car all at once using an even spray pattern and thickness to get the flake to lay the same.

yes, it looks like I'm going to respray it all. At least all the bodywork and stuff is done, so it's just a matter of sanding, masking, and re-spraying. I want it to be right, and not look jenky. Thanks!
 

Rajunz

Fast Coonass
Apr 5, 2005
794
0
16
Austin, Texas USA
www.cardomain.com
A good way to tell is after you water sand the car, spray water on it one panel at a time. When it is fully wet, this is how it will appear under clear. You can probably get away with only shooting some of the panels with color. Good luck with it all, painting cars is NOT an easy task. I've always found that the trick to getting a quality paint job is not in the painting, it is in the prep work and then most importantly the color sanding and buffing. That's where you get the ultra deep gloss effect, so I alway put lots of coats of clear to give myself some material to work with and not burn through. What you try to accomplish is get rid of all orange peal and imperfections so that the reflections are perfectly straight. Always buff under flourescent tubes and try to make their reflections perfectly straight. Once again, good luck and props to ya' for saving another one!