Pic request: Upgraded valve cover bolt set up

[PROJECT N00b]

Update: I replaced the cam seals, however, during removal, my friend took the caps off on the exhaust cam, which caused it to move. We put everything back together, and started her up. she sounds like shit, and doesnt react like she should when i play with the throttle. I checked as per TSRM with TDC and all that. When the intake cam is at TDC the notch marks on the cams arent at 12 o'clock. So im at this dilemma. Do I remove the timing belt, set the crank to the 0* mark and then adjust the cams to TDC and then put the belt back on? I'm somewhat lost here.

I bought a timing light and set it, but the notch on the crank pulley jumps from 10* to 0*.

Help please.

-Justin

 

[Figit090]

Did you put a jumper wire in the computer connection panel thing like you're supposed to while checking timing?
Make sure all your plug wires are in and in the correct order?

I'm confused by your cam description, do they not match up and point in the same direction? you say the cam is "TDC" but don't point upward? On some revolutions the cams will not point to 12-o'clock when the crank is at "0"

Re-read the TSRM carefully, I believe you put the crank at "0", and the cam gear (installed correctly) marks pointing up, toward the marks on the face of the engine.

Once timing belt is installed rotate the crank two full revolutions and the cam gears should return to the 12-o'clock position.

See here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=28

ALSO, I cannot remember if there are several holes in the cam itself but if I know that there are three holes in the cam gear, and if you put the pin in the wrong hole upon re-installing on one gear (or both really)...that could be your problem.

 

[PROJECT N00b]

UPDATE: Problem is solved. The notches on the cams didnt point to 12 when the lobe of the cam was pointing to 12. I just went with both cam notches pointing to 12 and reset the CPS and the crank to 0*. She started up with no problem, and is just fine. The cam seals aren't showing any signs on leakage either. In a few days I should be able to tell for sure if she is still leaking, once the residual oil burns off. Thanks for all your help with this issue SM!!! I will keep this thread updated.

 

[Figit090]

I don't know what lobe you were looking at, but yes...as long as the cam gears are installed correctly, you must line the tic marks up with the notches on the face just above the gears, more or less 12-o'clock. You don't look at the cam lobes themselves.

 

[PROJECT N00b]

Well shit. Anyways, everything is back to normal. The cam seals have been installed, so far no leaks. The residual oil is still burning up, when i get to base tomorrow it should be good to go.

 

[PROJECT N00b]

UPDATE: Oil is still leaking, I power washed the front of the motor and everything is clean. I ran it for a few miles to get Starbucks and came back. When I got back, the weep hole at the bottom of the crank had a very very slow drip coming from it. The front main seal is next on the agenda.

So much work to get rid of this damn leak! I'm proud of myself though, I've pretty much done all the work myself with help from my friend. Valve seals, No. 3 valve seal, cam seals and turbo lines have all been replaced.

No matter how much work I have to do to this car, I love it!

 

[IJ.]

Has this motor had the HG done?

If so did you remember to RTV the gap between the cover and the block on the deck surface?

 

[Alec]

http://www.suprasport.com/Valve-Cover-Cap-Screw-Kit_p_295.html

 

[noel]

THat Supra Sport sounds like a good idea ...but do u still have to use the OEm Gromments from Toyota?? if the installation process

1.Oem Valve Cover Gasket
2. some Rtv Sealent in the front corners
3. The Gromment
4.the Washer [SupraSport]
5.The Allen Bolt{supraSport]
6. Inch Pound Torque to 22

i have seen many different setup just wanna make sure

 

[PROJECT N00b]

Has this motor had the HG done?

If so did you remember to RTV the gap between the cover and the block on the deck surface?

HG hasn't been done to my knowledge. I am the 3rd owner of the car, my dad had it before me for about 6 months and the guy he bought it from was the 1st. I haven't RTV'd that yet, there isn't any oil around that area that I have noticed. I may be making myself look like a fucktard right now, but I didn't put that plate back on when I reassembled everything.

 

[Figit090]

You didn't put the black plate (no. 2 timing belt cover in TSRM) that goes behind the timing gears back on?

uhmmm....why?

I guess your engine would be fine without it for a while, but I'd suggest putting it back when you pull the timing belt and everything to change your oil seals. I don't know if it has any other purpose past being a dirt/oil barrier but... I don't know for sure. I don't remember if it gives support to the cam seals, should they ever try to pop out.

 

[PROJECT N00b]

Yeah, I was looking at them the other day. They do support the cam seals. I will clean up the plate, and put them back on.

 

[C-flo]

So is there a good place on the internet to order either hex head, or allen head bolts to replace the phillips head bolts that hold the valve covers down? I'm in the process of replacing my valve cover gaskets, and it seems as though everyone has the 2 rectangle gaskets for the actual covers and not the one in the middle that goes around the spark plug valley's. I would go and get bolts at our local fastner distributor, but I'm thinking these bolts would have to be a certain alloy to resist heat unless they are just plain carbon steel.

 

[noel]

SupraSport...or Driftmotion... i got my from driftmotion i cant wait to install them

 

[C-flo]

Cool Cool. Thanks a lot! I know with paper or paper/metal combination gaskets you can put compound on them to help them seal better and last longer, but what about with rubber? Is there something you can put on them to keep them from drying out or messsing up before there time is up? Maybe a little oil or something.