Paint - Color Change Estimate / Good or Bad

[csnow]

Well my 92 is basically a shell now and is ready for paint. I have decided to change the color from white to black. Car has no rust and no body damage other than little parking lot dings.

I am going to use a the same shop that does all the body work for Lexus of Melbourne. Materials are all PPG and the shop has been in business since 1984 and offers a lifetime warranty on peeling, sun fade, etc. I know you get what you pay for, so I am just trying to see if this sounds about right.

Engine bay sprayed
Door jams and entire inner door sprayed.
Floor pans and trunk well sprayed. Floor pans will be primered and base only.
Drilling and mounting side spoiler pieces.
Swapping hatch from my 89 over to the 92 (wont have holes to weld and drill when swapping spoilers)

Bear in mind that the car is stripped already and I am putting all the pieces back on except for molding and such so this cuts a lot of hours out of the job for the shop. They will do the engine bay and give the car back to me and finish the car after the drivetrain is installed.

Cost is $4,000

Good, bad, or get some more quotes. I have gotten a couple of quotes but the shops have looked shaddy and one didn't even have a paint booth on site :aigo:

 

[ms07s]

Well that sounds about average to tell the truth. Your talking about a lot of prep work and then they are going to do it in two sessions instead of one. I have been pricing out paint jobs in my area as well and to keep the paint the same color and not do jambs or engine bay its $2000-2500 for a professional job and $1000-1500 for a side job If I do all the prep work (sanding, remove moulding, lights, ect). Changing the color they usualy strip it down to the metal so its way more exspensive.

 

[The1]

Makes me wanna learn how to paint.

 

[dugums]

Changing the color they usualy strip it down to the metal so its way more exspensive.

Not in my experience. Stripping it bare would be a waste of time in most cases and not accomplish much of anything if the body is in nice shape.

$4,000 seems a *tad* steep, especially considering the fact that you will be doing much of the disassembly/reassembly. The price certainly isn't out of line though, so if you know they do good work - go for it. There are many shops that charge a premium price for sub-par work. It's always best to get a recommendation from someone, or just take a look at some of their finished vehicles. Check to see what type of finish they have going after it's been cut and buffed.

 

[ZFast300Z]

Not in my experience. Stripping it bare would be a waste of time in most cases and not accomplish much of anything if the body is in nice shape.

I have to COMPLETELY disagree with that statement. My two best friends own a body shop the does custom hot rods and muscle cars and you can see a world of difference in the paint when someone takes the time to strip the car to bare metal and start fresh. I've spent a couple hours talking with the two about whether it is worth the 1500 to have my car media blasted and stripped before they repainted it, and they have said without a doubt "YES".

Stripping it down to bare metal is the only way to know that your truly working with good clean metal.

4,000 is in the ball park for a good shop to do the paint work. PPG paint isn't exactly cheap, plus your talking about an engine bay, doors, truck and floors and the rest of the car. Did they give you a materials only quote?

 

[csnow]

I didnt get a materials only quote, but I didnt ask for one either. I doubt they are taking it to bare metal but the car does have the original paint on it. I am going to get a couple of more quotes. I have to be honest that it is reassuring to see several high end Lexus vehicles in the shop getting work done vs some of the other shops.

 

[LilMissMkIII]

Given the conversion rate, the bf says that quote seems about right for materials only...

 

[suprabad]

I have to COMPLETELY disagree with that statement. My two best friends own a body shop the does custom hot rods and muscle cars and you can see a world of difference in the paint when someone takes the time to strip the car to bare metal and start fresh. I've spent a couple hours talking with the two about whether it is worth the 1500 to have my car media blasted and stripped before they repainted it, and they have said without a doubt "YES".

Stripping it down to bare metal is the only way to know that your truly working with good clean metal.

Wrong.

Not in my experience. Stripping it bare would be a waste of time in most cases and not accomplish much of anything if the body is in nice shape.

Correct.

Zfast: Your friends are use to doing 40 + year old cars that were built when there was virtually no corrosion protection. The poster here is talking about a car that he obviously knows the history and condition of the body under the paint.

It hasn't been repainted numerous times like many hot rod restos and therefore it would be a waste of time, money and effort to strip the car down to metal. Your friends advice is only correct, if you don't know what lies below the current finish.

Also, unless performed correctly, you can easily damage the metal on a car by blasting the body with just about anyabrasive used to strip the paint.
If this happens (as is common), you will have your work cut out for you when you try to restore the now damaged surface and get something even close to what you'd have if you just block sanded it and painted.


csnow: $4k sounds like a deal for what you're getting.

 

[csnow]

I thought the price was inline for the work they are doing. The guy point blank asked if this was a show car or a daily driver. I am sure the car will look very nice, but I also realize 4k wont have me shaving via my clear coat reflection. Their show car paint jobs are 8k +

My only reserve, and dont take this wrong, is that this is a MKIII. I am really worried that I will get smacked and the insurance will only cut a check for 5k. With the interior being 100% redone, the 2J and all associated costs with that, and the paint... I am in the 20k + range on this car. I guess that is the nature of the game. I just wish I could find an insurance company that would do an "agreed" replacement value.

 

[The1]

Yall got me kinda worried because I guess I've been looking around and I know a few folks and this one guy who I trust tells me "The guy that paints mine will do any color and anything for 800 bucks!" Should I buy into that or what? I mean, the guy car looks great; I just don't know

 

[csnow]

Yall got me kinda worried because I guess I've been looking around and I know a few folks and this one guy who I trust tells me "The guy that paints mine will do any color and anything for 800 bucks!" Should I buy into that or what? I mean, the guy car looks great; I just don't know

$800 would worry me. At $80 an hour that would be only 10 hours of labor and zero on materials.

 

[mjtoll23]

you can get insurance through http://www.hagerty.com/Auto/vehicle_index.aspx

Since your car is a 92, you would have to classify it as "exotic" and worth more than 15,000. you can do a quote online. It would require you to not drive it "regularly" though. Worth a try.

 

[csnow]

I looked at hagerty. There is so much red tape with them, it is not worth it at all.

But thanks for the link and post....

 

[626na]

im getting a paint job for 350bucks....
its maroon now and kinda faded, dont know what color to go with maroon interior?
ohh friends shop.

 

[Nomad707]

350?? its gunna be crap paint.. they wont do the door jams or under the trim... or engine bay....

STAY away from maaco and other 500-1000$ paint job shops... they do crap work.. and your car will look BAD BAD BAD up close.

 

[adampecush]

4k sounds pretty good for a paint job that is guaranteed against peeling and sun fade. It cost around 5500 to have extensive rust repair, 2x rear quarter replacement and paint done to my car without any guarantees or anything.

 

[ZFast300Z]

Wrong.
Zfast: Your friends are use to doing 40 + year old cars that were built when there was virtually no corrosion protection. The poster here is talking about a car that he obviously knows the history and condition of the body under the paint.

It hasn't been repainted numerous times like many hot rod restos and therefore it would be a waste of time, money and effort to strip the car down to metal. Your friends advice is only correct, if you don't know what lies below the current finish.

Also, unless performed correctly, you can easily damage the metal on a car by blasting the body with just about anyabrasive used to strip the paint.
If this happens (as is common), you will have your work cut out for you when you try to restore the now damaged surface and get something even close to what you'd have if you just block sanded it and painted.

I'm not going to call you wrong, and am only going of my personal experiences. I've owned a 1990 Ford Thunderbird Supercoupe since it was brand new in August of 90. The car was completely rust-proofed on the undercarriage and in the wheels wells. It was never driven in the winter, when it was stored in a climate controlled garage. It was driven very minimally in the rain as well. Last year some asshole keyed the car all the way down the drivers side, from front fender to rear quarter. I decided to have the whole car resprayed since some of the trim work had faded and such. Wasn't I surprised to pull of the factory wing and find rust. Also the rust proofed fenders were showing spots of rust all over. Just because you have had the car and completely know the history of it, doesnt mean that you know what the quality of the metal underneath the paint it.

As for blasting, it can be done wrong and VERY wrong. I completely agree with the statement. However with proper selection of media (be it soda, crushed walnut, glass, etc) and an experienced blaster, I have a feeling it can turn out for the best. Again this is where shopping around means so much.

I've seen everything from late model mustangs/camaros (including a full weight twin turbo LS1 Firehawk that runs 9.20s and still retains all is factory emissions components) to 32 Ford Hotrods, to 70 Cadillac's with Flip Flop (i guess thats the street name for color shifting paint) done up "Donk" style go through their shop. I dont know what kind of body shop experience you have, but the brothers have 20+ years experience between the two of them. When they say, "if you want the best paint you can get, start with bare" I'm pretty tempted to believe them. And mind you they dont make any money of stripping cars, its not something they do there.

 

[ms07s]

Sorry If I have caused you guys to fight! I am just going buy my time working in a body shop. Some but not all cars were stripped down to the metal. It is very common on older cars. I personaly have to say it is the only way I would do it because you will be spraying on 20 year old paint. You can't see all the microscopic imperfections and hairline cracks you will be painting on top of with the naked eye. And unless you are the original owner you don't really know if it is the original paint. Better safe than sorry, thats all I'm saying.:biglaugh:

 

[themadhatter]

350?? its gunna be crap paint.. they wont do the door jams or under the trim... or engine bay....

STAY away from maaco and other 500-1000$ paint job shops... they do crap work.. and your car will look BAD BAD BAD up close.

most cars i've seen painted by maaco look decent up close no perfect but decent the problem with places like maaco isn't the people working there do bad work but the time restrants and materials they have to work with are sub-par at best. If you take your time prep and dimantle the car your self and buy decent paint maaco and put out some exellent results......but back to the question at hand 4K is about average for what your getting.