p5150's 2jz na-T slash re-re paint and whatever-else-needs-to-be-done

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
1,176
0
36
Central Idaho
I didnt realize how much work this would entail until I actually started.... The car was repainted by the "best" MAACO paintjob back in 2001 or so.... Most of the paint adheres pretty well.....

I have the car totally stripped down. Glass is removed (except for windshield and hatch glass), doors are pulled, fenders were removed, hatch is off, bumpers and side trim etc etc. Originally, the car was red, but it was re-painted green. The paint actually looked really nice, but the prep work wasnt completed correctly. Molding wasnt removed etc, so you could see red if you looked at it from different angles after a couple of years...

So on to the prep work - it has been a complete BITCH to remove all of the shitty paint and PROPERLY prep the paint for a good epoxy DP40 (PPG) primer before my high build primer. I have also had to remove all the paint in the engine bay because it was coated with rattle can paint... Needless to say, my die grinder and I have become very well acquainted. That took two days.

I also took all of the brackets that were supporting my urethane bumpers and cleaned/coated them with POR15. Some were almost completely rusted through and/or bent so I had to weld in some stiffening rods.. It helped straighten out the lower portion of my stock bumper that had been deformed from a parking stop here and there... I plan on making a custom aluminum air dam once the car is painted to replace the shitty plastic one that looked all twisted. I considered a body kit, but I really like the look of the turbo 88 body.

I have spent a week of full time work just sanding this POS down. It took me all day yesterday just to sand the front fenders, doors (to include 3 hours in the jams), and the hood with 120 and 180. I block sanded with 240 and then did a light pass with the DA with 320. I honest though at the beginning of the week that I would be done shooting the primer....
 

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p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
1,176
0
36
Central Idaho
today I found a couple of small cracks in the metal of the door. They were right above the door handle protruding from the corners on the drivers side. I thought that it always felt kind of loose, now I know why. It wasnt noticable until I sanded it down. I welded it back up, ground it down and filled it with some body filler. Looks nice now. I rule.

Some fucker obviously tried to break into my car within the last couple of years. When I removed my tumbler from the drivers door, it completely fell apart. I bagged a new one at the local pick and pull for a few bucks along with assorted body parts and had it re-calibrated for my key.

A word for those with pre-89's: you may want to remove your nose piece and address the rust issue with the support beam..... The one on my car was rusted so bad that I had to junk it. You should take yours out, POR15 it and re-install while you still have time.
 

SupraDerk

The Backseat Flyer
Sep 17, 2005
546
0
0
39
Tallahassee
Two questions, how much did the MAACO paintjob cost ya if you don't mind me asking. I'm looking to get the body fixed up and I've heard good and bad things about MAACO, if the price is right they might be a good fix for right now. And how do you like the POR15? I was thinking about picking some of that up.

Looks like a ton of work so far, haha. Good luck, look forward to seeing the progress :bigthumb:
 

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
1,176
0
36
Central Idaho
Personally, I think maaco may be a good deal IF you prep the car and bring it to them ready to paint. Prepwork is ALL the work. I had the car painted way back in the day (2000 or so) so I cant give you a good estimate.

The POR15 is high quality shizzle. Permanent to say the least.
 

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
1,176
0
36
Central Idaho
I keep sanding down the hood, and little pits that werent feathered out before the last coat keep jumping out. Im really worried that some of these pits have been covered by the shitty maaco job and will flake off after this coat. Not to mention that the underside of the hood is going to be a total whore. I think im just going to take the hood in to be media blasted.

I dont want to paint EVERYTHING, but I dont want to miss something and have some red poke through.
 

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
1,176
0
36
Central Idaho
Nick M said:
That isn't your old car is it? I thougt it was black.

Yeah Nick, its my old car. I have had this car since 1998. It was originally red and then painted a very dark green. It looked black until the light hit it (or the paint flaked off in the door jambs then it looked red)
 

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
1,176
0
36
Central Idaho
Ive got the car completely taken down and have sprayed the primer on the body. More block sanding tonight!
 

jimi87-t

Active Member
Oct 12, 2005
1,126
4
38
Colorado Springs
Hey, I never knew your car was red ;) That is a hellva lot of work. I hate sanding, this is why I will pay someone else to do it. Keep up the good work!
 

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
1,176
0
36
Central Idaho
I will continue to keep updating my progress here, but over on SF i have a pretty good source of advice so I tend to post a bit more. You can feel free to check out that thread as well. I have the same user ID.

My engine was scheduled to go out today from Miami. I sourced a NA 2jz with 65k miles on it for 650 shipped to my door. It also comes with the auto tranny which I plan to sell to the lowest bidder.... I would really like to have as much of the car done as possible before the motor gets here. Im really limited on space. A two car garage fills up pretty quickly