I can race around town all day no problem and the temp stays below half.. I can drive on the freeway for several hours and the temp stays below half.. but as soon as i get OFF the freeway after driving for about 30-45 minutes and start to slow down or come to a stop, it gets hot.. so I turn on the heater for a few minutes and keep driving and its fine. Coolant is full, replaced thermostat, clutch fan is good, and coolant is circulating.. I know my catalytic converter isn't the best it could be, could this be the problem? Otherwise, how do I go about flushing the system? Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Overheating
- Thread starter qu3tzlgum8y
- Start date
My buddy had a bad clutch on his mechanical fan, would overheat very easily actually. Gave him mine to try while my car was off the road and it solved the problem. Try spinning your fan by hand after you warm everything up and see how much resistance the clutch gives you. If it spins fairly freely, you've got clutch problems. If it stops within a quarter or half turn, you should be fine. Just something thing to check 
Do you have electric fans too? Are they coming on at the right temperature?
Do you have electric fans too? Are they coming on at the right temperature?
^I've found that to be an invalid way of testing the fan. Mine would pass that "test" just fine but would never engage past the slowest fan speed.
They aren't terribly pricey from Champion, and make a HUGE difference if the one on the car is not working properly any more.
If, when cold, it doesn't go to full roar for 30 sec-1 min soon after starting, then it's probably no good. I've found that to be a more reliable gauge for functionality than the spin test.
They aren't terribly pricey from Champion, and make a HUGE difference if the one on the car is not working properly any more.
If, when cold, it doesn't go to full roar for 30 sec-1 min soon after starting, then it's probably no good. I've found that to be a more reliable gauge for functionality than the spin test.
To answer your flushing question, the simple way is to take the thermostat out, and take off the lower radiator hose from the radiator. Then flush away!
mkIIIman089;1429138 said:
Put a lighter to the coil that is on the fan clutch. The heat will make the clutch system engage. If it is still free wheeling at that time or the resistance of the fan blades does not change.
either repair or replace the stock fan clutch.
I just replaced the engine with a jdm, so the water pump is probably the original. When I flush the system, I will take a look at it. I will also replace the clutch fan just to be safe.
Also, I mentioned before it wasn't overheating on the freeway.. well now it is. It actually seems like its almost random.. it fluctuates at times even on a flat road. Could it be a sensor??
Also, I mentioned before it wasn't overheating on the freeway.. well now it is. It actually seems like its almost random.. it fluctuates at times even on a flat road. Could it be a sensor??
mkIIIman089;1429138 said:
From what I can tell, the clutch is a little worn, but still good. It does go to full roar for a while, I know this because I hate it..
mkIIIman089;1431162 said:
It is the stock gauge.
I drove the car today for about a hundred miles until it said it was a little over 3/4 on the gauge, and i used an infrared thermometer and it said my temp was between 180-195.... soo I'm thinking it's the sensor.. or the gauge.. is it normal for these things to go bad? or be inaccurate??
stock gauge/sender here and never seen the gauge go over a tick below half. keep in mind my aftermarket has hit up to 210F and the stock gauge was still in the same position. If the stockers moving up, your getting HOT.
Not at all normal for the stock temp gauge to give erroneous reading... short of being completely unplugged they are bulletproof. Like reaper said, I've run spikes of 120C and the stock gauge was perfectly horizontal. 3/4 is extremely hot, the last car I saw that exhibited this behavior had a BHG on all 6 cylinders of varying severity into the coolant/oil passages. That car showed zero other indications of a BHG other than EG in the coolant.
My bet is you shot an irrelevant place to take temp from. Reach your arm under the intake manifold and shoot the side of the block (careful, it's hot), I've found that to be pretty accurate with my aftermarket water temp gauge.
My bet is you shot an irrelevant place to take temp from. Reach your arm under the intake manifold and shoot the side of the block (careful, it's hot
), I've found that to be pretty accurate with my aftermarket water temp gauge.ITS YOUR WIRE TO YOUR SENSOR! And/or the sensor dont waste money on anything else!! I just got done going over every single thing on the cooling system and it ended up being the wire! I was able to just flip mine around for it to be ok but I plan on redoing the wire and would suggest the same!
i have a similar problem. i use a manual temp guage not the stock. I also have a 160 degree thermostat . I usually runs around 160 to 190, but when i pull in and idle the car, sometimes it boils over into the resrv.tank and eventually all over the ground.
I have purged the system many times and always get all of the air out. I always have the cooant level at the right level in the tank.
I have purged the system many times and always get all of the air out. I always have the cooant level at the right level in the tank.
i had a similar problem, i could drive the car aaalllll day around town, idle it for hours, quite literally, as soon as i hit the freeway... would be one litle line under the red. pull off, goes back down..
EVERYONE would tell me cracked head, or bhg, but i wasnt convinced. seeing that i had a mls on it, i finally by doing my own checks and a little bit of intuition, pointed at the turbo.....only thing it could be.... makes sence, low and behold, 3 cracks.... new turbo now, and no problems.
little f.y.i i have read that the ct-26 is prone to cracking. even more so if the boost is raised.
EVERYONE would tell me cracked head, or bhg, but i wasnt convinced. seeing that i had a mls on it, i finally by doing my own checks and a little bit of intuition, pointed at the turbo.....only thing it could be.... makes sence, low and behold, 3 cracks.... new turbo now, and no problems.
little f.y.i i have read that the ct-26 is prone to cracking. even more so if the boost is raised.
CRE;1432899 said:
yes my fan shroud is gone. but i never run to high of a tempurture. it just boils over. its really annoying, today i left a big ass stain in my parking lot, and i dont think the landlord is gonna be to stoked on it. im not ready to think the headgasket went, but i am down with checking my turbo for cracks and possibly replacing. for now, it gets me top work and back so im gonna ride it out till i have sufficient expendable income to dump into her again
So you missed the whole thing with me highlighting your statement about the over heating while you're stopped and then bringing up the cowl? I mentioned it for a reason. (HINT)