Over heating while driving

[chris_2jz]

Hi im having a problem where I over heat while driving long interstate trips to work.after like 15-20 of normal driving I begin to over heat. I dont over heat at all while in the city with stop and go traffic only long distance. I checked the coolant in radiator and reservoir and both are full. I recently replaced the thermostat (like 2 days ago, no signs of leakage) I have a 1jz single turbo with the hydrologic water pump still on. Im thinking the water pump but im worried blow head gasket might be a problem as well? Any advice will be much appreciated thank you

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[te72]

You forget to mention two things: ambient temperatures and your fan setup.

In hot weather, my fans have a hard time keeping my engine below 210°, and it's not all that uncommon for the thing to run up to 220° on the freeways in Vegas and Phoenix. Here in Wyoming though, the ambient temps are much lower, and it won't clear 210° on the highways here. Do you only have this problem during the daytime, or is it a problem as well at night?

I'll be the first to admit that my fan setup (the Mishimoto fan shroud/fan combo setup) is NOT adequate for the higher temps that we see in the southern US, but they do just fine for me here. Your solution could just lie in your fan setup...

 

[chris_2jz]

I still have the stock 1jz hydrologic single fan blade. And as for temperature readings I dont have a fahrenheit degrees reader I still have the stock temp gauge. I haven't tried it out at night but when happens it's in the morning time about 73°-78°F and on the way home 89°-92°F here in florida. I've never had this problem before. The previous owner didn't put in a thermostat, so the needle would go up 75% of the way but nothing more day or night. Any other info you need please feel free and ask

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[JPsToyota]

I had the same problem on my single 1JZ. I also had crappy rusty coolant, and was losing just a bit of coolant (I think it was mostly getting pushed out of the overflow).

I did a couple full flushes and it didn't help. Still had the same cruising overheating (on my 45 minute drive to work, would only happen when I hit the long 15 minute cruise at 60+mph, cool as a cucumber from light to light, which usually means your fan is working decently, right?) and when heavily boosting for a long period of time (a few long runs in a row).


Eventually I just went through the whole thing because nothing short of replacing parts was going to fix it. It seemed like a small headgasket leak to me with the coolant overflowing a bit and overheating when driving and not idling.

Did the headgasket, put in a 2JZ waterpump, new radiator (had a cleaned up stock rad before), ARP head studs, ton of new seals, and flushed out everything like crazy and cleaned the block passages of a ton of rust and crap. The original headgasket was pretty rough, but didn't seem to have any obvious trouble spots on it. I think it was just a small headgasket leak.


So my advice to you would be to do the same. A 1J can blow a headgasket too after so many years and some single turbo abuse. I honestly think my hydro fan was still working well, it was pushing some decent air, but I wanted to put a new waterpump in there while I had everything torn down. That's too many years on an original waterpump, especially on a JDM import motor.

 

[Poodles]

Could be a pinhole leak somewhere (radiator cap could cause it). Or the radiator, shroud, crappy t-stat (had it happen more than once with parts store ones) could be the issue. Less likely is waterpump (they're stamped steel from the factory, the bearings go out first) and headgasket (I'd never do a headgasket unless I was sure).

The hydrofan setup should be pretty durable, so I doubt it's the issue.

 

[chris_2jz]

I had the same problem on my single 1JZ. I also had crappy rusty coolant, and was losing just a bit of coolant (I think it was mostly getting pushed out of the overflow).

I did a couple full flushes and it didn't help. Still had the same cruising overheating (on my 45 minute drive to work, would only happen when I hit the long 15 minute cruise at 60+mph, cool as a cucumber from light to light, which usually means your fan is working decently, right?) and when heavily boosting for a long period of time (a few long runs in a row).


Eventually I just went through the whole thing because nothing short of replacing parts was going to fix it. It seemed like a small headgasket leak to me with the coolant overflowing a bit and overheating when driving and not idling.

Did the headgasket, put in a 2JZ waterpump, new radiator (had a cleaned up stock rad before), ARP head studs, ton of new seals, and flushed out everything like crazy and cleaned the block passages of a ton of rust and crap. The original headgasket was pretty rough, but didn't seem to have any obvious trouble spots on it. I think it was just a small headgasket leak.


So my advice to you would be to do the same. A 1J can blow a headgasket too after so many years and some single turbo abuse. I honestly think my hydro fan was still working well, it was pushing some decent air, but I wanted to put a new waterpump in there while I had everything torn down. That's too many years on an original waterpump, especially on a JDM import motor.

I do see coolant being pushed out the overflow bottle. But that sounds exactly like my issue! I've heard napa sells like a tool or something to where the fumes from the radiator can tell you if you have a blown headgasket? Can anyone confirm that?

 

[chris_2jz]

Went out to the car and saw this ^^

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[chris_2jz]

Sounds like my water pump is whining.... Sounds like the water theory is correct?

 

[hvyman]

Looks like it was leaking as well.

Its called a combustion gas tester. Checks for combustion gas in the coolant. Compression and leak down testers can help too.

 

[chris_2jz]

Any place in particular i can find those?

 

[IJ.]

Undertray?

 

[chris_2jz]

Undertray?

Undertray???

 

[IJ.]

Plastic undertray goes from the Lip to the Rad support then to the crossmember, car will run +5c with it missing and if your cooling system is marginal to begin with this is often enough to tip it over at highway speeds as the air can bypass the radiator.

 

[hvyman]

I think he was taqlking about the combustion gas tester. Napa sells a cheap 1 chamber one. Matco snap on etc sell the better 2 chamber ones. 50-100$

 

[chris_2jz]

I think he was taqlking about the combustion gas tester. Napa sells a cheap 1 chamber one. Matco snap on etc sell the better 2 chamber ones. 50-100$

snap on guy didn't have a gas tester so I bought a combustion leak tester unless it's the same thing you were refering to??



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[chris_2jz]

Ok so heres the update I bought a bluepoint combustion leak tester

I turned the car on let it warm up rev'd a couple times let it cool down then did the test and these are the results

Now the instructions say if it remains blue it's fine but it turns green I have gas fumes in my coolant. I also did it with the car running and got the same results.

And earlier when I was done driving I found fresh coolant in the picture I posted earlier of the cam cover same spot

Im thinking coolant flush first then if it continues water pump? ANY input will help. Thanks in advance

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[chris_2jz]

Plastic undertray goes from the Lip to the Rad support then to the crossmember, car will run +5c with it missing and if your cooling system is marginal to begin with this is often enough to tip it over at highway speeds as the air can bypass the radiator.

I looked and I don't have it but this has never happened before untill recently

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[IJ.]

I looked and I don't have it but this has never happened before untill recently

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Fins can get blocked with leaves/bugs and crap over time and it sneaks up on you, get a warm day and off the needle goes where it's never been before....

This is what I meant by "marginal cooling system" in my 1st post.

 

[chris_2jz]

Looks like I got bigger problems now! Now she's sputtering and spewing out black smoke and it won't stay on but no check engine light ( it works ) stuck on the side of the road now waiting for tow truck =( im gonna make a new post but lmk what I should be checking out please and thanks in advance.

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[Kingsoup]

It sounds to me like you only have some small issues, as it only overheats on the highway which is more or less maximum load. I'd say its probably not a major flaw but smaller ones + the high heat of your area. Also can you confirm that the engine is very hot when your temp gauge is reading high? those temp sensors when they get old don't always read so well, my mk2 Supra one reads some overheating when I open the hood the engine is still average temp.