One Piece Driveshaft Angle? Weird Vibration problem.
- Thread starter Janz99
- Start date
I had a similar problem, mine was the result of the u joints not being in sequence. I forget which one it was because i had a shop fix it but just make sure one isn't out of wack with the others.
IJ.;1851633 said:
Yes, stock 2jz auto flex plate. It centres on the pilot hole in the back of the crank, then bolts to the factory flex plate. Then the converter bolts to the adapter. Ive bolted just the converter/adapter to the engine and dialled the snout on the converter, and it was within .001"
I think I may have found my issue. The blue ross racing machine adapter that gets bolted to the block.... It is not tight on the stock engine dowels. There seems to be at least .015-.02" movement on the dowels. Im going to make some new stepped engine dowels, then re-dial the plate and see if it is cenetered. If it is, I'm back in business, if not I'll have to make some sort of offset dowels to get it re-aligned.
So, to anyone running the ross racing block adapter, check to see if its tight on the engine side dowels. If its not, you need to work something out to centre it.
toymkIII - yes, I looked at my D.S. to make sure the u-joints were in sync. Visually they look perfect. Im not sure if there is a specific way to check them, but I can post a picture to show their alignment.
Well, after another summer of trying to get this vibration sorted out, I still have not been successful. We are going to replace the converter this winter, and re-check everything and see if we cant sort this out. I may also replace the stock flex plate and see if this may be causing the issue as well.
I got this w/ my one-piece cause my engine mount was sheered. it was obvious that the engine was sitting crooked though
I've looked at the mounts, and the engine seems to be sitting nice and square to the chassis. So I doubt it's either of those two issues.
im glad this thread was made. i have the same problem and everyone says its the alignment but i like how this is an option that i can do right now since im a teenager and dont have money for alignment right now especially with gas prices and such 
Had a one piece steel driveshaft once on my Supra....
I had the same vibration problems! I fought a month trying to fix the issue. Never did :-(
I was running stock 3.7 rear, stock R154 trans, TRD engine and trans mounts (no solid ones), and a S3 v.2 short shifter.
I ended up selling the one piece driveshaft and wenr back with the two piece oem unit and the problem solved.
A friend of mine, got from the same driveshaft shop a one piece aluminum one and never mentioned any issues with it.
Don't know if there is a big difference between a steel vs aluminum shafts though....
I had the same vibration problems! I fought a month trying to fix the issue. Never did :-(
I was running stock 3.7 rear, stock R154 trans, TRD engine and trans mounts (no solid ones), and a S3 v.2 short shifter.
I ended up selling the one piece driveshaft and wenr back with the two piece oem unit and the problem solved.
A friend of mine, got from the same driveshaft shop a one piece aluminum one and never mentioned any issues with it.
Don't know if there is a big difference between a steel vs aluminum shafts though....
I'm fighting a driveshaft vibration also. Thinking I may need to use a cv on the differential end of the shaft.
I believe my problem is that my Trans angle doesn't match the diff angle. The tranny is tight in the tunnel and I can't get it up high enough to match the angle.
If I put a cv at the differential end I should be able to lower the Trans mount slightly so remove any angle over the front joint and putting all of the angle across the rear joint (that's a cv) and should be good.
Just gotta wait for the foot of snow to melt so I can get my car out of the garage.
Edit: this is with a 2jz/th350
I believe my problem is that my Trans angle doesn't match the diff angle. The tranny is tight in the tunnel and I can't get it up high enough to match the angle.
If I put a cv at the differential end I should be able to lower the Trans mount slightly so remove any angle over the front joint and putting all of the angle across the rear joint (that's a cv) and should be good.
Just gotta wait for the foot of snow to melt so I can get my car out of the garage.
Edit: this is with a 2jz/th350
Sorry I didnt see this earlier, I had contemplated buying a DS from DSS and running the same setup with a CV. With my new v160, Im going to try a shaft with the CV and see how it works. I'll let you know in another month or so.