One piece D-shaft
- Thread starter Gumboot
- Start date
not sure what a sched is, but I got mine from jawsgear
http://www.jawsgear.com/store/catalog/
They've got both steel, and aluminum shafts. Jeff(I think) is the man you want to talk to. He is very knowledgable and they build some badass mk3's so......they know their shit.
http://www.jawsgear.com/store/catalog/
They've got both steel, and aluminum shafts. Jeff(I think) is the man you want to talk to. He is very knowledgable and they build some badass mk3's so......they know their shit.
Ive heard stories that the one piece shaft is not a good idea.
Who and where I heard this escapes me...plz dont flame the messenger.
Who and where I heard this escapes me...plz dont flame the messenger.
Fuzz420
Are U Here 2 take My Baby
Several thousand miles on mine, runs flawlesslyHIDPLANET said:
It was worth every penny too:naughty:
Yep, and it was the almighty IJ that said due to the one piece and more then likely lighter weight, it will increase rumbling at high rpm's and higher speeds. This is the reason i will not get a 1 piecer.HIDPLANET said:
CryoSlash said:
A lighter, one piece that is properly balanced shouldn't cause any rumbling at high speed, and with a one piece you eliminate a u-joint and a bearing (both which are shot on my car). So with those eliminations plus the lighter weight = less resistance= better response. It's my dd and it's mostly in town and the highest i really drive is 110kph, (70-80mph?), but not very often. I do like to do donuts and the odd peel out, but my student funds keep it to a minimum. So a one piece would definitely be a better choice for me, because for me to make one would cost about $40-60. vs a new u-joint & bearing or a pre-built (boooo) one. It's not q question of 'should I do it?", it's a question of "what materials should I use?".
So, any one have any suggestions? cuz I don't think 1" sched 40 would be very good.:nono:
Also, any got suggestions on an oil leak? Leaking about 7-8 drops the size of my little finger nail in an hour. My oil pan leaks, but that's not going to cause fresh oil to get on the underside of my intake manifold. It's clean in the timing-belt housing, but both sides of the block are covered. There are drips on the underside of the intake manifold, but not on top (or the middle). I've thought about the options, valve cover gasket is a possibility but I've never seen one leak that much (and without getting the top/middle of the intake?). I've also considered the head gasket, but I've only ever seen one car before that leaked oil from the HG (and it was a dodge), and it was definitely not this much oil. Any suggestions of anything I might have missed?
Also, didn't seem to be comming from the distributor either.
Also, didn't seem to be comming from the distributor either.
About the oil leak, check the crankshaft breather hose. It runs behind the alternator and it is a hose that comes from the valve covers(next to the oil cap) and goes to the engine block. Usually this hose will crack because of all of the heat and check the valve cover gaskets and the screws that hold down the valve covers.
I was looking at a one-piece driveshaft on suprasport.com (http://www.suprasport.com/DSS-One-piece-Aluminum-Driveshaft_p_83-267.html) just a little while ago and according to their site, an aluminum driveshaft has a higher resonant frequency than a steel one so it actually dampens vibrations. Their's is spin balanced at 5000 rpm.
AWESOME, now that's the kind of info I'm looking for. Thanks guys,I apreciate it.
SWAQ-I would love to make an aluminum one, but that isn't within my range, ( no access to a tig welder). I'm looking for what kinda steel to use for the d-shaft.
plaaya69- thanks for the input, I'll definitely be looking for that hose tomorow, hopefully I'll find some good news but a super leakin valve cover wouldn't be too bad either. ( They really used SCREWS for the valve cover? I thought those were for a cover piece....crazy)
SWAQ-I would love to make an aluminum one, but that isn't within my range, ( no access to a tig welder). I'm looking for what kinda steel to use for the d-shaft.
plaaya69- thanks for the input, I'll definitely be looking for that hose tomorow, hopefully I'll find some good news but a super leakin valve cover wouldn't be too bad either. ( They really used SCREWS for the valve cover? I thought those were for a cover piece....crazy)
The DSS drive shaft SupraSport (and others) sell have length issues...i.e. they were an inch too short. I have an aluminum one from JawsGear, fits perfect and is very high quality. If I remember correctly, it was a bit cheaper than the DSS shaft.
Jaws can also make a 1 piece from chrome moly steel...lighter than stock, but not as expensive as aluminum.
Jaws can also make a 1 piece from chrome moly steel...lighter than stock, but not as expensive as aluminum.
One other advantage of aluminum is it is more torsional...it absorbs the twisting torque from the tranny better than steel. Plus it is less noticeable concerning resonate vibrations from the drive train.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
CF tube is better than aluminum and steel at absorbing the vibration, but they are fragile. If you hit them with something, they can shatter.
Good news is they just turn into lots of black cotton string if they do break. It's very unlikely they will do much damage to anything short of wiping any undercoating off the underside of your car.
Expense is the only downside to CF driveshafts.
Good news is they just turn into lots of black cotton string if they do break. It's very unlikely they will do much damage to anything short of wiping any undercoating off the underside of your car.
Expense is the only downside to CF driveshafts.
Cool stuff, but as mentioned many times before....I'm making my own steel d-shaft, no aluminum, no carbon fiber.....Still looking for what kind of materials to use.