Oil

87soup

F*CK SMOG CHECKS!!!
Jan 23, 2006
864
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Sacramento
I have the "GE" and I just currently started running "Royal Purple" 10w-30 and ive noticed a little top end nocking between 2.5K and 3K. I also live out in Phoenix AZ so it is hot as hell right now. Do you think i sould go to 10w-40, if not what should i do?:1zhelp:
 

aye mate

Hiatus over.
Mar 30, 2005
1,926
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Maryland
I used to run Castrol 20w-50 and now I run Mobil1 15w50.
I believe the logic behind running a heavier oil in an older car is that the tolerances on the engine components have worn out a little bit and are not as tight as they used to be. A heavier oil will increase oil pressure, thus more oil gets into those gaps and lubricates better. Basically.
And :withstupi
 

87soup

F*CK SMOG CHECKS!!!
Jan 23, 2006
864
0
0
Sacramento
aye mate said:
I used to run Castrol 20w-50 and now I run Mobil1 15w50.
I believe the logic behind running a heavier oil in an older car is that the tolerances on the engine components have worn out a little bit and are not as tight as they used to be. A heavier oil will increase oil pressure, thus more oil gets into those gaps and lubricates better. Basically.
And :withstupi

Is the 15w-50 any better, or should i get the 20w-50?
 

87soup

F*CK SMOG CHECKS!!!
Jan 23, 2006
864
0
0
Sacramento
Oh yah one more thing...

I know it is hard to tell, being there are so many diff posibilities...

Do you think the knocking could have been do to the thiner oil?:icon_bigg
 

da89soup

World I Am Gay Blue!!!
Dec 2, 2005
1,978
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Fargo ND
so what kind of knock did you say you had? did addding thicker oil solve the problem. I had rod knock in my first ge between 2500-4000 rpm's. Doe the car knock when you start it up and then go away?
 

miekedmr

mkiii in hibernation
Jul 12, 2005
511
0
0
Upstate NY
Yeah, I was surprised to find out the W stood for winter and not weight..
anyways, thicker oil is not always better. You want oil that is the right thickness in the temperature range that it needs to run in.
20W-XX is going to be too thick for cold starts anywhere below freezing. If you live down south, or it's just a summer car, go for it. The second number is how thick the oil is at a high temperature, so 10W-30 and 10W-40 are about the same thickness when cold, but the 10W-40 doesn't thin out as much at high temps, so having a bigger range between the numbers is better in a way. BUT, the way they make the oil more stable across a greater temperature range is with additives. These additives are a trade off, because they make the oil less effective in general.
Picking the right oil depends on a lot of things: Climate, bearing clearances, driving style, how often it will be changed, etc.
My suggestion for you is in line with the others, go with 20W-50, since you're in AZ. I just changed from 10W-30 to 10W-40 in my truck and there was a ticking before when it was warm that is almost inaudible now. If your oil is too thick for cold starts, you will know it, because it will run loud as hell and be sluggish.
 

supra90turbo

shaeff is FTMFW!
Mar 30, 2005
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I just recently laughed in someone's face for this. I have a 95 Subaru Legacy with 222,000 miles on it. I beat it, hard. I needed to change the oil and have noticed that I'm getting some valve clatter nearing 3300 miles on an oil change. Figuring that the oil is thinning out over time, and my seeming incapability to keep up with a maintenance schedule for this car, because it is simply a beater, I always seem to go over 3,000 mi on an oil change.

This time, I bought Valvoline 15w40. it's got a little seal of approval from Cummins on the front of it, and jokingly I mentioned that I'll pick up some torque since it's diesel oil. My friend would have no part of it, complaining that it's specifically formulated for diesel engines and is not made for engines that spin past 4,000 rpm.... lol'ing ensued.

BTW: it made my valve clatter go away.
 

MDCmotorsports

Offical SM Expert: Turbochargers
SM Expert
Mar 31, 2005
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Indy 500
www.MDCmotorsports.com
supra90turbo said:
I just recently laughed in someone's face for this. I have a 95 Subaru Legacy with 222,000 miles on it. I beat it, hard. I needed to change the oil and have noticed that I'm getting some valve clatter nearing 3300 miles on an oil change. Figuring that the oil is thinning out over time, and my seeming incapability to keep up with a maintenance schedule for this car, because it is simply a beater, I always seem to go over 3,000 mi on an oil change.

This time, I bought Valvoline 15w40. it's got a little seal of approval from Cummins on the front of it, and jokingly I mentioned that I'll pick up some torque since it's diesel oil. My friend would have no part of it, complaining that it's specifically formulated for diesel engines and is not made for engines that spin past 4,000 rpm.... lol'ing ensued.

BTW: it made my valve clatter go away.

Theres alot of people with gas cars or high mileage cars running Delvac super 1300 or Shell Rotella T.
 
B

Boostaddctn

Guest
supra90turbo said:
I just recently laughed in someone's face for this. I have a 95 Subaru Legacy with 222,000 miles on it. I beat it, hard. I needed to change the oil and have noticed that I'm getting some valve clatter nearing 3300 miles on an oil change. Figuring that the oil is thinning out over time, and my seeming incapability to keep up with a maintenance schedule for this car, because it is simply a beater, I always seem to go over 3,000 mi on an oil change.

This time, I bought Valvoline 15w40. it's got a little seal of approval from Cummins on the front of it, and jokingly I mentioned that I'll pick up some torque since it's diesel oil. My friend would have no part of it, complaining that it's specifically formulated for diesel engines and is not made for engines that spin past 4,000 rpm.... lol'ing ensued.

BTW: it made my valve clatter go away.

Doesn't the diesel 15w40's have different additives in it?? aight peace :chicken: