oil temp for the 1jzgte
- Thread starter Divin' Devin
- Start date
according to my temp gauge it's running 140 deg c. I wonder if using the sandwhich plate, if i am blocking the efficiency of the oil cooler. maybe I should use my old 7m coolers in addition to the 1j one.
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it's an old hks gauge, but seems to be working properly. I did fuck up and put 10-40 in when I installed the gauge. would that be a problem? I have only puy 1oo miles on since either of these things being done. what would be the most likely culprit and is there a way to verify whether the probe is accurate or not? I am using the stock dash gauge for the water temp and the hydrofan. car is running great as far as feel and sound. any suggestions,IJ?
IJ.;1377000 said:
castrol 10 w-40, it should be 5w30. didn't know if the heavier oil would be an issue.
Ahhh with you now!
No the Oil weight wouldn't make a huge difference.
I'd grab a cheap mechanical gauge and try it then compare to the HKS as 140c is very hot.
No the Oil weight wouldn't make a huge difference.
I'd grab a cheap mechanical gauge and try it then compare to the HKS as 140c is very hot.
IJ.;1377010 said:
thanks, I'll check it when I get up it's 12:30 am here now. for what it's worth my hks is mechanical, at least if you are referencing to the new ones.
what do you think about the sandwhich plate at the filter possibly blocking the efficiency of the 1J oil cooler?
IJ.;1377021 said:
I thought it's oil cooler was like the 2J one that sits between the filter and the block. granted, not the conventional style,
I'm betting the coolant temps are up there too...the radiator needs to have excess thermal capacity for an oil/coolant cooler to work effectively. Might be time to get the oil on a separate circuit.
must have been having one of my "stupid" moments. the gauge is actually reading 10.4c x 10 = 10.4c = 212 F. that's driving in town with a big 4" fmic,
1J thermostat, 0.9 bar cap, hydrofan, with water in the radiator. does this sound better? is this worth trying to improve?
1J thermostat, 0.9 bar cap, hydrofan, with water in the radiator. does this sound better? is this worth trying to improve?
Need to redo your math...104 deg C = 219 deg F 
The TCCS' of this era usually pull timing at temps over 100 deg C (212 deg F). Short answer, the temps you show are too hot. Either upgrade radiator capacity or switch to an oil/air cooler.
Running pure water in the coolant system is not a good idea in a street car...50/50 coolant to water is the min ratio you want to use.
The TCCS' of this era usually pull timing at temps over 100 deg C (212 deg F). Short answer, the temps you show are too hot. Either upgrade radiator capacity or switch to an oil/air cooler.
Running pure water in the coolant system is not a good idea in a street car...50/50 coolant to water is the min ratio you want to use.
jdub;1377190 said:Need to redo your math...104 deg C = 219 deg F
The TCCS' of this era usually pull timing at temps over 100 deg C (212 deg F). Short answer, the temps you show are too hot. Either upgrade radiator capacity or switch to an oil/air cooler.
Running pure water in the coolant system is not a good idea in a street car...50/50 coolant to water is the min ratio you want to use.
Thanks, you are correct, my math was wrong, I agree with your suggestions, but what do you think is the cause?
Is it the fact that the large FMIC is blocking airflow, lack of proper mixture, cap pressure or thermostat pressure? the radiator seems to be operating correctly.
Personally, I think the oil/coolant circuit is inadequate for a turbo motor on a stock size radiator. It's likely your coolant system is fine (assuming you're not overheating), but the additional oil thermal load is exceeding radiator thermal capacity. I run an auto tranny and switched the ATF cooler from the radiator to an oil/air cooler for this exact reason.
T-stat wise, you want to run a stock temp stat, either OEM or a Stant Superstat. For where you live, you can use a 180 deg stat, but do not go any lower. Test the stat in a pot of boiling water for correct opening temp and remove the jiggle valve before you install.
T-stat wise, you want to run a stock temp stat, either OEM or a Stant Superstat. For where you live, you can use a 180 deg stat, but do not go any lower. Test the stat in a pot of boiling water for correct opening temp and remove the jiggle valve before you install.