Oil Relocation Adapter for Dual Filter Remote (Conventional + Bypass)

[adampecush]

could anyone confirm what size the o-ring has to be for an oil filter relocation adapter?

I'm looking at the earl's bypass adapter listed here:
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...art=EAR-1178ERL&N=700+318418+115&autoview=sku

If anyone has a better solution, let me know about that too.

Thanks,
Adam

 

[jdub]

I need a little more info

What are you planning to do? Just a remote filter set-up using the stock oil cooler circuit? Or are you going to attach the adapter directly to the block with a NA filter stud and go with a thermostat controlled cooler?

Ther Earl's adapter you linked to should work fine on either the turbo filter head or bolt to the block using the NA stud.

 

[Piratetip]

Permacool filter relocation adapters list the O-ring size at 2 1/2"

 

[jdub]

O-ring size should be close to the size of the filter gasket...it doesn't have to be exact. All it has to do is seal against the flat surface of the filter head or block and allow unrestricted flow to the adapter.

 

[adampecush]

Sorry, my bad. I am going to be using a N/A stud, running -8 line from the filter adapter to a dual filter mount, then to a mocal 180F thermostat, then to a cooler (possibly earls or mocal) - and of course all necessary return piping...

 

[jdub]

Ok...that Earl's adapter should be fine to use and should come with the o-ring to effect the seal to the block. It's better quality than a PermaCool. The o-ring you are referring to is really not an o-ring per say. It's a rubber gasket that is the same type you see on a filter that has a flat sealing surface.

Your plan for the single remote filter/cooler circuit looks good too. Take a look at the B&M coolers...stacked plate type. More robust than the tube/fin type IMO.

What type filters are you planning to use on the dual head? Two conventional full flow or is one going to be a by-pass filter.

 

[adampecush]

I'm planning on using one trasko, one wix. What size oil cooler would be ideal for -8 line?

thanks for the help by the way.

 

[jdub]

This size at minimum:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BMM-70272&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Or if you need one a different shape, the same total area and thickness.

Running a Trasko/Wix combo is a good way to go

 

[jizake1jz]

I'm not real familiar with all this stuff yet so i'm gonna jump in here. what do you mean by dual head?

would all this apply to a 1jz or just a 7m? if you are familiar with the 1j they have the water cooled oild cooler that holds the filter about 4 inches off the block. if i wanted to upgrade to a remote filter and external cooler, would i be able ot do the same type of thing as mentioned with the "na stud" on the turbo block?

 

[jdub]

He's talking about this:
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...PRM-1223&N=700+400006+310274+115&autoview=sku

It allows you to mount two spin on type filters. Adam is going to mount one conventional filter (a Wix...very good choice) and a Trasko Bypass filter...specifically the TI-10S:
http://www.trasko-usa.com/

This conbo is going to filter the oil down to less than 1 micron...about as clean as you can get.

Yes this will work on the 1JZ...you mount the adapter directly to the stock oil cooler and route to the remote dual filter, then to the air cooler with a thermostat between the remote filter head and the return to the motor.

 

[IJ.]

Have to wonder how much Oil finds it's way through the high restriction filter.....

Path of least resistance thing and all

 

[jdub]

The Trasko is designed to filter only a small amount of oil...approx 5% of the flow through the filter head. All bypass filters work this way. Eventually all the oil is run through the Trasko over time...it keeps the oil very clean and free of particulates.

If you really want to go all out, use a CM filter instead of a Wix
http://www.cmfilters.com/spin-on.cfm#cross

BTW - the Trasko is a very good filter for an auto tranny used by itself...the elements last a lot longer than with oil. ATF has a much more cushy live compared to motor oil.

 

[IJ.]

Dub: I understand the thoery just wondering how the fluid dynamics side of the equation works in real life?

 

[jdub]

The Trasko I'm using on my tranny is working as advertised. The Trasko has an internal valve that creates a pressure differential between the input to the filter to the outlet. It works great. Here's another type of bypass filter...the Motor Guard:
http://www.bypassfilter.com/MotorGuardFilters.htm

Ralph modifies a M30 (it's actually a compressed air filter) by inserting an orifice in the line that feeds the filter. He shows it using a sandwich plate, but this method produces a small pressure differential. I bought an unmodified M30 for $50 to install on my Toyota truck...I'm going to "T" off the feed line to the cooler and insert a .032"-.062" orifice in the NPT fitting that attaches to the Motor Guard housing. I want about 1/2 quart a minute in the return. The return is going to a fitting I tapped in the rear of the valve cover. This method allows a larger pressure differential to power the filter. BTW, the filter element in the Motor Guard is a roll of TP

JJ has been using a Motor Guard on his Supra for some time now...he's got it mounted where the charcoal cannister used to be.

 

[IJ.]

I'm talking about using a twinhead adaptor like the Adam is talking about my gutt feeling is not a great deal would find it's way through the 2nd filter until the 1st non restrictive filter becomes blocked.

I'm also not really understanding the need for ultra fine filtration as everything I've read on the subjects suggests sub 15 micron particles are too small to cause wear?

 

[jdub]

I see your concern using a dual filter head...it utilizes parallel flow. However, the Trasko sets itself into bypass mode (what you want in this set-up) at 8-16 psi. Even using parallel flow, there is more than sufficient pressure across the filter head for the Trasko to function. Especially if the stock GTE filter head (and 40 psi cooler relief valve with it) is removed like Adam is going to do, converting the filter/cooler circuit to full flow/pressure. As you know Ian, shimming the oil pump relief valve will produce additional pressure...this makes the Trasko even more efficient. Trasko specifically states the filter can be used as a bypass on a dual filter head.

A friend of mine is running a Trasko (TI-10S) on a dual filter head (on a Supra) with success, but the element needs to be changed more often than what Trasko recommends. He had to change the element at 3000 miles after starting using the Trasko...from the way it looked, it caught a bunch of particles he had floating around in the motor. He sent an oil sample to Blackstone at the 5000 mile point and it came back with only trace insoluble solids and 0% water/antifreeze. We'll see how long the 2nd element in the Trasko lasts...it should go longer intervals once the engine is cleaned out. I am 99% sure the Trasko works as intended

Yep, same here...I read anywhere from 10-15 microns is the threshold where particles will cause wear in the motor. The SAE filter test (SAE J1858) uses both particle counting and gravimetric measurement to measure filter capacity and efficiency. Actual counts of contaminant particles by size are obtained every 10 minutes, both upstream (before the filter) and downstream (after the filter) for evaluation. Typical numbers for paper element filters are 40% at 10 microns, 60% at 20 microns, 93% at 30 microns, and 97% at 40 microns. Some do better...the Mobil 1, Wix and PureOne filters are examples of those readily available, but still allow particles over 25 microns to circulate in the oil. For those that don't know, here's an explanation of full flow filter micron ratings and beta:
http://www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/tsbs/89-5R3.html

It's not the ability of a bypass filter to capture particles in the 1 micron range that's necessary, that's just the nature of the filter element and yep, it's overkill. What is important IMO is it will get those particle at 25 microns or less that gets by a full flow filter. Another advantage of a bypass filter is it will capture and hold any water the PCV system misses. Personally, I'm going to use the Motor Guard with a set-up similar to what JJ runs...the filter elements (TP) are a lot cheaper

 

[Jaguar_5]

I just finished going through all this, seems alot of people have been going this route lately Heres a post I just made in my thread on the topic!
___________________________________________________


Heres the list for my all out (short of an accusump and modified pan, and without going dry-sump lol) oiling system:

B&M Supercooler, 70274
Permacool Dual oil filter mount, 3/4-16 thread
Permacool spin on oil filter adaptor

These next three are for oil pressure and temp senders, you can use the extra 2 ports on the filter mount, but I decided to go with post-oil cooler readings:

Aeroquip female -10 to male -6 reducer
Earls -6 to 1/8" NPT
Earls 1/8" NPT Tee

Mocal 180* Thermostat, -10 fittings
Aeroquip -10 socketless hose (I hope 13' is enough!)
Aerolube for hose assembly
8 Socketless Mocal -10 hose ends (only need 6 if you use filter mount for sensors)
1 Aeroquip -10 tee (again only needed if you tap into the line for sensors)
4 Socketless Mocal -10 90* hose ends
6 Mocal 1/2" NPT to -10 adaptors

Almost forgot you'll need a N/A Filterstud, and some teflon for the npt fittings

I think that just about covers it!

This setup used in conjuction with wix and trasko filters, should complement my new oil squirters, shimmed pump, and Arz oil pump hardline! Lots of volume, without building (or losing) pressure! That's the goal at least

Edit: After actually going through and installing this system, i had to make a few changes, i ended up needing 4 more 90's instead of straight hose ends, as well as needing to use a Canton filter adapter (90 degree swiveling) for clearance issues