Oil pressure sender removal tool?

[te72]

Hey guys, in the process of putting in an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. Have done a good bit of research, got the DM adapter line, and have moved the a/c compressor forward. Tried to remove the compressor but it's not gonna cooperate if I leave the radiator in so it's going back on once I get the old sender out and DM line hooked up.

Question I have is this: What's the best way of going about removing the stock 1jz oil pressure sender (switch?) when the engine is IN the car? Saw a suggestion for putting a rag over it and using vice grips or channel locks, but I have my doubts as to being able to GET that sort of thing in there, you know? I know that there's a nut on the back end of the sender, but it would need a deep socket that's BIG. How big though, is my question. Biggest deep socket I have is a 24mm and it's not cutting it. Looks to be about a 30mm, possibly 32mm. Anyone know for sure? I hate paying for sockets individually, but things that big don't come in packages... or cheap. If anyone happens to know the correct socket size for that it would be a big help, thanks!

 

[te72]

Alright guys, update time! First of all, I was completely mistaken about there being a nut on the back (block) side of the stock oil pressure sender. Well, there *is* a nut on the back, but it's tiny, way smaller than sender itself. I'm not sure what I was feeling when I was reaching in there... Tried the channel lock idea, there really wasn't enough room to turn them unfortunately, even with my skinny arms. Fortunately, there's an easy fix, and a relatively cheap one at that. I went to NAPA and picked up an oil pressure sender socket. Yes, there is a socket especially designed for this sort of thing. They have two different types, a 1"-1.1/16" and a 1.3/16". We need the first one there, as the 1.3/16 is too big. Fortunately, the smaller unit is cheaper, and will also accommodate a sending unit from a 1" to a 1.1/16". If you happen to have those sockets lying around you could probably get away with a standard 6 point, MAYBE even a 12 point. But for $6 at NAPA I"m not complaining.

Easiest way for me to get all this done was to use a 3/8 ratchet, about 12-15" of extensions, a wobbly, another 3" extension, and finally the socket. Attack it from between where most people have the powersteering reservoir, and it shouldn't take long at all. Hardest part was getting the a/c compressor back into place.

(Mods, I'm gonna poke around the thread tools and settings a bit and see if I can do it, but if not, can one of you change the title to "Stock 1jz oil pressure sender/switch removal solution"? Would be appreciated, and hopefully save some search time in the future, saw a LOT of threads on the subject when I did.)

 

[bottorml]

I am in the middle of a 1JZ swap and wonder at how to get the sender off every now and again. Thanks for the tip.

Mark Bottorff

 

[hvyman]

Try a 12 oor 14 mm wrench.

 

[emiliorescigno]

A 14mm wrench will work, but it's a BITCH to get into the correct position. Good info about the NAPA tool.

 

[te72]

I am in the middle of a 1JZ swap and wonder at how to get the sender off every now and again. Thanks for the tip.

Mark Bottorff

Do it now, before you put the motor in. Trust me. This is one of those things that while not as bad as the y-pipe replacement, is NOT much funner to do when the engine is in the car.

A 14mm wrench will work, but it's a BITCH to get into the correct position. Good info about the NAPA tool.

No problem, I like being able to share my frustrations on what should be an easy task. I'd love to see someone do this with a wrench with the engine IN the car though... until then, I have a hard time believeing it can be done. No offense hvyman.

 

[emiliorescigno]

I'd love to see someone do this with a wrench with the engine IN the car though... until then, I have a hard time believeing it can be done.

I have done it before with the 14mm wrench, took at least 3 hours of hurt knuckles and frustration.

 

[te72]

Socket takes all of about 4 minutes. I think I could have walked to Napa and back in that time and still had time for lunch.

 

[JP85MX73]

I used a 27mm deep socket... dont have an ac in the car so it was easy.. best bet if its too tight is to make a good old custom "SST" :icon_surp

 

[te72]

You know... I bet even a standard 27mm would have worked to be honest. All you need to do is get a good grip on the sender itself, there is no other way to loosen the thing (other than the wrench madness mentioned above...).