Oil Accumulators

[SMP142]

i am gathering stuff to do my oil system on my swap (2JZ). i figure while i am doing a relocation anyways, i might throw in an oil accumulator. i havent heard anyone on here talk about them, is anyone acutally using one? my dad and i use to race late model dirt cars and we always had them. i know the JZ engines don't have the oiling issues like the 7M does, but it still sounds like a good idea to me. $200 to prolong the life on an engine? i'm sold. any opinions?

http://www.accusump.com/

 

[screaminglemon]

I use cantons 3qt unit. and I'm pretty sure IJ uses one also. maybe check his build thread.

as far as I'm concerned, they are definately worth it. they can pre-lube the engine before startup. if nothing else, your starter motor will thank you.

 

[screaminglemon]

oh yeah. I was going to say. the biggest negative about these is finding a decent place to mount one.

 

[bowsercake]

If you have the money get it, especially if you are going to track your car. I'm looking into getting the 3qt unit, but I probably wont get it for a while.

 

[IJ.]

3qt Moroso here there are pics in my pics thread.

 

[SMP142]

yeah i am most likely getting one. where did you guys mount it at? i think i saw one behind the rear seat once. cant remember though.

 

[SMP142]

are any of you running the elec. valve on your system? i was planning on getting one of these for the pre-lubing. i am guessing the 3 quart is the best route to go also.

 

[screaminglemon]

i have the electric valve. hook it to your ignition and it will automatically pre-lube as long as you pause between "on" and "start" when you turn the key. it can also be usefull to wire in an override switch to the circuit.

i have seen the picture of somones car with an accumulator mounted behind the rear seat but that involve plumbing hot oil into the passenger compartment. not something i want.
if you look at ians build thread you can see he mounted his on the wheel well under his intake manifold. mine is eventually going where the battery is supposed to be. vertically mounted, but requires some cutting.

size is personal preference. if you are only worried about pre-lubing then you can go with a smaller one. mine will be seeing track days so i went with a 3 quart.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

when they say 3 qt capacity how much is actualy used? if you have a 3 qt capacity it couldnt completely fill up because then there would be no air to compress and create pressure, witch would mean no reason to have one.

Also how do you check your oil level if you dont have one with an electronic valve? wouldnt it vary with oil pressure but then when the engine it shut off all will return to the pan?

 

[bowsercake]

The accusump maintains the pressure in the oil system. So, if you leave it open when the car is idling the pressure might only be 10lbs or less when you start it back up. However, I don't really see this as a problem. Furthermore, I assume that 3qt is the amount of oil that the sump can hold when full, not including the area of the piston and such.

The sump will discharge with the ignition on, however, once the oil pump is flowing it will gradually increase the amount and pressure of the oil until it is full and at the same pressure as the engine. When you shut it off it will retain this pressure for the next time that the ignition is activated.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

The accusump maintains the pressure in the oil system. So, if you leave it open when the car is idling the pressure might only be 10lbs or less when you start it back up. However, I don't really see this as a problem. Furthermore, I assume that 3qt is the amount of oil that the sump can hold when full, not including the area of the piston and such.

The sump will discharge with the ignition on, however, once the oil pump is flowing it will gradually increase the amount and pressure of the oil until it is full and at the same pressure as the engine. When you shut it off it will retain this pressure for the next time that the ignition is activated.

ahhh, its a piston and spring type deal? i see how it works now, i figured it was just an empty container that would be pressurized by the oil system and the air in the container would give it the "spring" effect. guess its time to do some research.

 

[SMP142]

i have the electric valve. hook it to your ignition and it will automatically pre-lube as long as you pause between "on" and "start" when you turn the key. it can also be usefull to wire in an override switch to the circuit.

now with it setup like this, the valve doesnt shut till you turn the key back and the engine stops correct? but doesnt the oil pressure bleed down before it closes? or does it just close fast enough that not much bleeds off.

 

[screaminglemon]

well, mine is an electric switch with a pressure controlled valve. on or off, it always works as a one-way so it will fill and hold pressure. the electric switch turns the pressure controlled valve on or off but the pressure controlled valve will only activate (2-way flow) if its switched on AND the pressure in the oil system drops below 25psi.

if your pressure at idle is below 25psi, and you idle your car for a minute or two before shutting it off, then the accumulator will empty itself and you will have nothing for the next startup prelube. thats why an override switch is a good idea. hit the override before the pressure drops. idle all you want. shut the car off. and then disengage the override so its all ready for a startup prelube.

without and electric valve, you would use a manual valve. that would just be a real pain in the arse for a daily driver. just get the electric.

 

[SMP142]

i got ya. i am getting one soon!

 

[IJ.]

I run mine in dumb mode with no controls at all, I have 42psi Hot idle so no matter what it always has a charge.

Hot shutdowns are much better on the turbo as it supplies oil for a few minutes and this along with the coolant thermo syphoning means no turbo timer.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

I run mine in dumb mode with no controls at all, I have 42psi Hot idle so no matter what it always has a charge.

Hot shutdowns are much better on the turbo as it supplies oil for a few minutes and this along with the coolant thermo syphoning means no turbo timer.

how do you have 42psi hot? do they really supply oil pressure for that long? Coolant thermo Syphoning......:aigo: :1zhelp:

 

[IJ.]

how do you have 42psi hot? do they really supply oil pressure for that long? Coolant thermo Syphoning......:aigo: :1zhelp:

I'm clever

Takes a few minutes to discharge and by that time the turbo has stopped

ALL cars in the old days used thermosyphon for cooling as they didn't have water pumps (I mean way back)

The Turbo is hot this expands the coolant in it and pushes it which displaces the cooler coolant in the block which refills the turbo and so on.

If you listen after a hot shutdown you can hear it circulating and this is enough to prevent the Oil coking on the shaft (this is what TT's were designed for)

Modern Oils help a lot.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

tight bearing clearance? bigger 'earl pump?

 

[Gilsdorf]

This is the set up I did last year, it is a completely new full flow oil system.
I went with an N/A stud, Canton remote filter adapter, remote filter mount (perma coolRM-1791) w/ Canton Mecca 6.25 spin on filter (8 micron filtration), 180deg B&M thermostat (BMM-70259) , earls 13"x7" cooler, 2qt Canton Accusump with Electronic Pressure Control valving (20-25psi), all plumbed with Earl's AN -10 SS lines and fittings.

I went with the 2qt accusump because I thought I could mount it in the engine bay, but it turns out I couldn't find the room so I mounted the accusump in the trunk, and plumbed it through the floor with a bulkhead fitting.

Tight fit for a regular wrench, but a stubby or an AN wrench should work.

Mounted the remote filter under the driver's headlight. I'll trim the plastic cover to clean it up a bit, the brass fitting is a one-way check valve so when the accusump dumps it doesn't push against the oil pump (the CM filter has an anti drain back system but I figured I didn't want to over power it and force the filter to back flow). This will fit with the 3" IC pipe, 24x12x3 IC.

This is the thermostat, I got a bunch of 180 degree Earl's fittings on sale so I ended up positioning it this way, if I didn't get the hose ends so cheap I would have just turned the thermostat 90 degrees and plumbed it with right angle fittings. (one of the 180's is off in the pic). Notice the second check valve, this ensures that the oil coming from the thermostat doesn't flow back and stall when it is only partially open, it also keeps the cooler from siphoning out once the engine is turned off.

Earl's cooler mounted in front of A/C (could have gone bigger, but it is nearly twice the size of the stock one).

I drilled out the coin holder to mount the toggle switch for the electronic valve on the Accusump. It fits great and the holder closes completely.

This turned out to be an expensive way to go (close to $1400) but knowing that I have a decent system that should stand up to any future higher horsepower goals does give me some piece of mind, (i'm currently at ~500whp, it'll handle anything I'm going to do in the future). I made all of the hose myself with a cutter I bought from Summit and for most of the fittings I just wrapped them in electric tape and used two cresent wrenches to tighten them down, (some got slightly nicked-up, but I'm not building a show car, well maybe I am).

Matt

 

[SMP142]

there it is! i knew i saw one behind the seat.

I run mine in dumb mode with no controls at all, I have 42psi Hot idle so no matter what it always has a charge.

when you say "dumb mode" are you talking the valve is always open? i understand what your saying about putting oil on the turbo after shutdown and that is a good thing. but if you do this you wont have any pressure for prelubing right? or do you have one of those valves that automatically closes after it bleeds down to 25psi or so?