ODD 1jz intermittent issues!

19cturbo

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Dec 14, 2012
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Kingsport tn
alright, this is driving me insane. ive tested all i know to test and tried to figure it out on my own. Im out of ideas and am seeking your help..

Background

This is a 1jz swapped 1987 mitsubishi starion. The car has been swapped and on the road for over a year without issue. I did the swap myself so know what was done. Its not hacked together and performed flawlessly for over a year now.


When the issue started:

I was driving the car down the road, and it was like someone killed it for a second then it came back to life. This happened a few times over the next week but was so random i had no way to check anything as the issue didnt last long.

About a week later, the car would randomly die at a stop or redlight but would fire back up and be on its way. Again, randomly and without warning its hard to check.


The car got to where it would die and not start back immediately, sometimes you would have to let it sit a few minutes. Then it would fire up and go, sometimes it would be a bit rough but would smooth out.


So i put the car in my garage, and started checking things, the window of time i had to diagnose was very short, the issue would come and go.



THIS IS A VIDEO BEFORE I SENT THE ECU OFF

[video=youtube;kONs4CZJQ2Y]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kONs4CZJQ2Y[/video]

What ive done so far:
I pulled the ecu and notice 2 capacitors had signs of leaking. So i sent the ecu off to driftmotion and had it repaired. When i got the ecu back, The car was hard to start, and when it did start it had an intermittent miss, but smoothed itself out. I assumed it was the ECU relearning. Once the car warmed up it was fine, and ran fine, shut it off and it fired back like a new car.

The next day i went to get the car to drive it and it had a hard start again, with the random "miss" im not sure if it was actually a miss or a quick loss in power.. but it felt like a "miss" to me. once it warmed up the car was fine. i drove it around without issue got it home and parked it.

The day after that, i was headed to work, car fired fine, started driving and it was struggling to stay running, it died and would not start back so i had to have it pulled back to my house. This is where it gets weird, The car with the ignition on is showing random RPM numbers without cranking or the engine running, when it does this is when the hard/no start situation occurs.

THIS IS A VIDEO AFTER THE ECU WAS REPAIRED

[video=youtube;j16E-aj70w8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j16E-aj70w8[/video]


I began checking some more things and once i unhooked the igniter the RPMS stopped jumping around, i had purchased a new igniter previously so i swapped it out. car fired right up and seemed fine. drove it around, all was well. Next morning (today) the car was hard to start at first and was flashing random RPM. but fired on the second try and seemed fine. Drove to work for a 6 hour shift. 3 hours into work, i went out and turned the key on just to see if it was still flashing RPM's and it wasnt. When i got off work, it was flashing random RPM and would not start for a few minutes, it finally fired up and ran fine. And has been running fine since. However im sure it wont last this time either.


Cliff notes.
car would randomly cut off but fire back and be fine
car would die and you had to wait a few mintues but it would fire back
car would die and not fire back
ECU was sent for repair
ECU was reinstalled, car was hard to start
Hard start continues, SAFC flashes random RPM
IGNITER was changed and car ran fine
Issue is back
Crank sensor was ohmed and all is well.


Sorry for the long post, just trying to be descriptive.
 

19cturbo

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Dec 14, 2012
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Kingsport tn
mine has been fine for over a year.. this just popped up and has been a headache.. Im leaning toward the SAFC being my problem. but im still unsure. im working to resolve the issue.
 

525gte

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Sep 19, 2011
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hoquiam
Check the water temp sensor. And the wiring for the plug for the sensor plug for broken and corroding wires
 

19cturbo

New Member
Dec 14, 2012
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Kingsport tn
ok, this morning, i went out and tried to start the car.. no start... I did get engine codes 14, 78, and 31. 31 was because i disconnected the safc and forgot to reconnect my MAP wires i believe. and 78 would make sense because my fuel pump is hard wired to the car. i dont use the toyota fuel computer.


However, i got pissed, went to my shop to get my volt tester and grab the spare igniter (the old one) i get back, pop the old igniter in and it fires up and runs..... swap them back out for the new one, and it fires runs a bit rough then runs fine....

What the actual hell is going on!?



I suppose a coolant sensor could cause the rough as shit cold starts... Ill dig deeper into that.. but it doesnt make sense after swapping the igniter.
 

525gte

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Sep 19, 2011
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hoquiam
I had all these issues you had. Turned out I had badly broken and corrode wires at the plug only 1 strand of wire was connected to the plug. Put in a new pigtail and all was well
 

19cturbo

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Dec 14, 2012
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Kingsport tn
update!

I added another ground for the igniter circuit. I also moved my SAFC tach input from the IGF wire for the ecu circuit to the tach output wire from the igniter. I tried to eleminate anything messing with the igniter input (IGF) circuit. just a thought i had and hoped it would help. car seemed fine all day, as it always does

1 day later (next morning) Go to start the car, crank and crank no start, (i did however not have the jumpy RPMS from previous videos) Tried to start it a few times, no go so i checked codes,

14, and 42.. 14 is no signal on the IGF circuit, 42 is no speed sensor.. obviously i wont have on the swap lol.

I walk inside, check the code numbers, go back out to continue testing and it fires right up. shut it off. let it sit, fires right back. im going to do some more checking now. this is insane lol
 

19cturbo

New Member
Dec 14, 2012
120
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Kingsport tn
UPDATE!

issue is resolved. I found that off of one of my fuse blocks, were i removed the factory fusable links from the staroin, the spade connector was loose. i replaced that and she is working like a charm.

thanks for the help