NOVICE drag runs

stevevangst

1000HP club
May 24, 2005
107
0
0
tulsa
1TuffSupra said:
You should only heat up your tires if you are running slicks and maybe drag radials (but definitely not much with drag radials). For street tires you should just be chirping the tires just enough to get all of the dirt and rocks out of the treads. This is simply because street tires are not designed to withstand the increase in temperature and will actually decrease the available grip rather than increase it. SCC did a whole article on it about a year and a half ago. Take it from me I used to drag race my fwd NA eclipse and was running 15.4s with an intake and exhaust (and that was on an uphill track) and was cutting consistent low 2.2s and some high 2.1 60' times on the stock eagle rsa tires.

ummm ok well how do you explain getting 2.4's 60ft without heating stock honda accord tires (195x15) and 1.9's 60ft after heating them up???? trust me we did 16's not heating stock supra tires up and 14's after.... Have you ever seen a stock tire been heated up after a burnout? it get's sticky, meaning more trackion. And tell me how does a normal temp tire compare to a heated sticky tire...better 60ft's. I should really go to the track and try this with some stock tires just to show you guys.....lol
 

1TuffSupra

Sho' Nuff
Jul 11, 2005
500
0
0
41
Raleigh, North Carolina, United States
First off, to get 1.9 60' times in an NA FWD car is damn near impossible on street tires, especially stock tires. Most professional FWD drag cars only get 1.8 to 1.7 60' times when on slicks with suspension modifications. I have buddies in awd dsms getting 1.7-1.9 60' times at the track on a regular basis. The ones who get 1.7s use a 2 stage rev limiter in order to build boost of the line, which would increase the available horsepower and allow for a better launch, and arent on stock tires. Hell on stock tires they would launch and get a 1.9-2.0 and thats with them spinning the rear tires. Besides, with driver error it is completely plausible to get a variation from run to run of .5 seconds if the driver does not yet have the experience to be consistent with his/her launches. 2nd, if you have a high performance street tire it is already as sticky as it will get from driving to the track if you live about 30 min away. Street tires are made from a harder compound than slicks or radials, so they do not flex as a radial or slick would, whether they are hot or not (this is why a street tire will last for 20,000m and a radial only 5-7). The only reason for a burnout is to heat the tires which makes the tire compound softer, which allows for more flex on launch. In layman's terms, a tire with more flex allows the tire to compensate for the instant need for acceleration by flattening out which basically makes the tire wider than before. On top of that a softer compound gives more grip anyway, the combination of the two allows for more grip.
 

IHI-RHC7

"The Boss"
Apr 1, 2005
1,310
0
0
40
Oregon
1Tuffsupra, What you are saying is very true as far as numbers go.
But Steve is right. BTW, my friend greg runs 1.6 60 ft in a front drive civic hatch...
when they put water out, I go around it, and heat up street tires dry. the water box works best for treadless/ drag radial tires. but stock supra tires will give you 2.2 60' times just launching. Heating them up dry, I can get consistent 1.9s.
I know the logic isn't there, but the fact is that it works.
The problem with watering the tires is that with street tires, the tread picks up the water, the tire gets sticky, then while you stage, the water leaks out of the tread, cools the tire, and leaves it wet.
That's why I drive around, and then back up and burn out. I roast them just enough to get some good smoke, and feel the tires tear you out. I hold the Rs around 4K, and then feather out of the hole until the tires screach and rip me out. Whatever RPM they tear me, I make sure that when i drop the clutch, that's where my rpm is. Street tire 1.9s are pretty easy, you just have to get a feel for what the car wants.
 

stevevangst

1000HP club
May 24, 2005
107
0
0
tulsa
IHI-RHC7 said:
1Tuffsupra, What you are saying is very true as far as numbers go.
But Steve is right. BTW, my friend greg runs 1.6 60 ft in a front drive civic hatch...
when they put water out, I go around it, and heat up street tires dry. the water box works best for treadless/ drag radial tires. but stock supra tires will give you 2.2 60' times just launching. Heating them up dry, I can get consistent 1.9s.
I know the logic isn't there, but the fact is that it works.
The problem with watering the tires is that with street tires, the tread picks up the water, the tire gets sticky, then while you stage, the water leaks out of the tread, cools the tire, and leaves it wet.
That's why I drive around, and then back up and burn out. I roast them just enough to get some good smoke, and feel the tires tear you out. I hold the Rs around 4K, and then feather out of the hole until the tires screach and rip me out. Whatever RPM they tear me, I make sure that when i drop the clutch, that's where my rpm is. Street tire 1.9s are pretty easy, you just have to get a feel for what the car wants.

See I told you 1TuffSupra, even tho someone did a recearch on it doesn't mean there are right or wrong, just means it works for some and doesn't work for others. tho i'm sure it will work for them if they tryed it, I mean like IHI-RHC7 said 2.0's and 1.9 are pretty easy to get, stock supra tires will do that all day long IF you know what your doing.
 

1TuffSupra

Sho' Nuff
Jul 11, 2005
500
0
0
41
Raleigh, North Carolina, United States
Yeah your right it is always important to take in all information you recieve with a grain of salt and if at all possible try to confirm that info for yourself. As far as you guys going around the H2O box and then doing a burnout, are you actually doing a burnout where you are locking up the front tires and burning the rears or are you just reving up and dumping the clutch to let them burn a little? The latter is what I meant in my first post about getting all the rocks etc out of the tire treads which is what I also do, I dont know how it as at your tracks, but at mine the return lane is full of all kinds of crap and gravel some places, especially the one in fayetteville.

And tell your friend thats pretty impressive for a street driven fwd, he must be running an lsd and slicks plus pushing a pretty impressive amt of power.
 

blackout_89t

King of the roll
Apr 25, 2005
488
0
0
Toronto
1TuffSupra said:
You should only heat up your tires if you are running slicks and maybe drag radials (but definitely not much with drag radials). For street tires you should just be chirping the tires just enough to get all of the dirt and rocks out of the treads. This is simply because street tires are not designed to withstand the increase in temperature and will actually decrease the available grip rather than increase it. SCC did a whole article on it about a year and a half ago. Take it from me I used to drag race my fwd NA eclipse and was running 15.4s with an intake and exhaust (and that was on an uphill track) and was cutting consistent low 2.2s and some high 2.1 60' times on the stock eagle rsa tires

On a side note, jt2MA71 when I was searching for another project car I found your car domain page and that is what made my mind up to get a mk3. Your car is stunning, keep up the good work.

There is no need to roast your street radials.

Lower tire pressure to 20psi and smokem to get the dirt off. That is all.

Old setup I cut 14.0 with intake, a 2.75" exhaust and w/10psi. stock turbo. Dropped 0.3 secs just from lowering the tire pressure.
 

IHI-RHC7

"The Boss"
Apr 1, 2005
1,310
0
0
40
Oregon
well, I did 13.3 with stock IC, cat back, turbo, IC pipes, cat, etc...
All I really had was fuel (lex 550s) downpipe, cheap filter, and an avcr.

1Tuff. I BURN EM.

I run 17 psi, and let them pull through my front brakes. I hold the brakes just light enough to stay in one spot, and then the tires tear me out when they're "ready"
 
Dec 3, 2003
6,653
0
0
Canada
Rather than dumping the clutch I suggest getting a line lock by Hurst.

Duane

http://www.rpmoutlet.com/hurst.htm

There is a momentary switch mounted to the shifter which holds pressure on the front brake lines after your foot has been removed from the brake pedal. The more pressure you apply to the brake the more lock you get. This will also save your rear brakes from wearing out :biglaugh: The price is cheap to! I am sure you can get these anywhere but thought I would post what I did. Much better for when you are at the track :)