NO Torque Plate and Boring the block ???s

[wardog]

I have been trying to build my block but cant get ahold of a torque plate to bore the block. My goal is to push 500rwhp daily and 600 rwhp for racing/track.

1. What kind of issues can i run into with out using the torque plate to bore the block?
2. Has anybody build a block with out using a torque plate and the engine is still ticking/alive?

Any information/suggestions/experiences will be appreciated.....

 

[IJ.]

Done it in the past when one wasn't available, longer time for the rings to get an initial seal was about the only difference I noted, keep it in mind the factory don't use one and people make good HP on stock unopened engines the 2J's in particular.

 

[CyFi6]

I am running a 7m with probe forged pistons at about .0037" clearance and no torque plate was used, it has some minor piston slap when its cold, but clears up entirely when all warmed up, which would probably be the case even with a torque plate. I have good compression and everything, only worry i would have is that when you use arp studs and torque to 80ftlbs you are stressing the block much differently than the factory was at 58ft lbs on bolts. Still don't believe its enough to cause any major issues, though im no engineer!

 

[wardog]

Thanks IJ and CyFi6 im just gonna go ahead and have the block dropped at the shop. Its gonna get: forged Probe pistons, eagle rods , clevite 77 bearings, new toyota oil pump with DM oil line, fresh rebuilt head ,holset hy35 turbo 550cc or700cc injectors , etc etc. Plans are to run the hy35 and see how much power i can make , then switch to a holset HX40 with a swapped 9cm housing and see what that does. Ill more than likely just go with the 700cc now . Well thanks for the info guys ill problaly start a build threat tomorrow....

 

[wardog]

Ok guy i have taken a couple of 7m engines apart and i havnt seen one like this one. Ok first i noticed that there is the # 2 on the pistons, the deck on the block and the crank is a 6m crank. The crank turns freely and the journals are shiny.

 

[Cz.]

If I remember correctly, the early models came with the 6m crank, the later 89+ motors had a 7m crank that had full counterbalancing and thus the redline on those models was dropped by 250rpm.
Maybe it was just well taken care of?