I have a crazy situation. My 90 turbo has been sitting for about 9 years. Prior to spinning a bearing. I had an upgraded t04 with the normal stuff. I put about 66k on it with a steal head gasket before it popped. For the last 9 years or so the car sat. I bought a bunch of stuff and lost interest. Well last year I gave everything I have to a friend. I was missing so many brackets and pieces over the years I figured since they did a lot of 1j conversions it would perfect since they had a bunch of spare parts. It didn’t turn out as nice as a job as I hoped it would have.
Any way the block was sonic tested, bored, etc. I keep the stock rods and they were shoot penned and balanced with new Weisco Forged pistons. I sent my cams and had them regrind from crane. My heads already had a mild port job so I just got the head resurfaced with another 3 angle valve job. I already had an upgraded Intercooler and piping from before the engine failure. I used the HKS 1.0 stopper head gasket again since I really loved how strong it worked fro me 13 or 15 years back.
I had 550 cc and the Lexus mass air from back in the days. I threw in a 255 walbro fuel pump with a regulator.
Well when I picked up the car I did not have all the components for my old delta gate. So I got it back home put in a new waste gate and than the fuel pump quit. I went ahead and jumped B+ to FP and nothing. I checked B+ with a test light and there was no voltage. I ran a wire form the battery to FP and the pump came on and the car started. It surges from 1500 to 2500. And the tach comes on and off and so does the check engine light. I checked and don’t see any vacuum leaks. I am going to hook up my old boost gauge and see if I can see what my vacuum is at.
I tried to see if I can get some codes and nothing the light doesn’t Evan come on. When I jump the diagnosis plug. I am going to working on trouble shooting the fuel pump power short or issue. Any thought were to start. If there is no power to B+ in the diagnostic plug I assume that might be my main culprit. Most like also the reason why I didn’t get anything from my check engine light while checking for codes. Any thoughts my car has been sitting for so long and I wiggled the main harness and everything looks like it is plugged in good. I know back in the day I had some extra ground wires to the head, I will check into that also. I found my old manual so I will start trouble shooting the relay and whatever is ion the book.
I am also missing my egr valve. I can’t seam to find it and it is blocked off right now. I know I should have one on but would like to see if I can get everything straighten out first. I read some good info here about detonation under load and the reason to keep egr. If I have mine off just for the beginning is there anything that needs to be done or do people just leave the plugs unplugged and leave the vsc’s alone.
My last question is piston knock. I remember back in the days the cars with the forged pistons would have a little knock at startup until warmed up. I just never understood why my other cars didn’t do that. My mustang had forged pistons and it didn’t sound like that. I know the jap tolerance were a lot closer but not really sure. Anyway I kind of here a little knock and I hope it is not a bearing. I am going to try and put a screw driver up to the valve covers and see if I can tell if the noise is coming form the bottom. It would really suck if the bearings are bad since the motor isn’t Evan broke in.
I also have a vpc sitting with a gcc not sure what chip is in the vpc though. I would really like to get the car back to what it use to be with the mass air before I open a hole new can of worms with the vpc. Man this thing has been sitting for a while I didn’t Evan remember how to check my trimming. Any help would be appreciated. I have just been out of the supra world for some time. Thnaksss
Any way the block was sonic tested, bored, etc. I keep the stock rods and they were shoot penned and balanced with new Weisco Forged pistons. I sent my cams and had them regrind from crane. My heads already had a mild port job so I just got the head resurfaced with another 3 angle valve job. I already had an upgraded Intercooler and piping from before the engine failure. I used the HKS 1.0 stopper head gasket again since I really loved how strong it worked fro me 13 or 15 years back.
I had 550 cc and the Lexus mass air from back in the days. I threw in a 255 walbro fuel pump with a regulator.
Well when I picked up the car I did not have all the components for my old delta gate. So I got it back home put in a new waste gate and than the fuel pump quit. I went ahead and jumped B+ to FP and nothing. I checked B+ with a test light and there was no voltage. I ran a wire form the battery to FP and the pump came on and the car started. It surges from 1500 to 2500. And the tach comes on and off and so does the check engine light. I checked and don’t see any vacuum leaks. I am going to hook up my old boost gauge and see if I can see what my vacuum is at.
I tried to see if I can get some codes and nothing the light doesn’t Evan come on. When I jump the diagnosis plug. I am going to working on trouble shooting the fuel pump power short or issue. Any thought were to start. If there is no power to B+ in the diagnostic plug I assume that might be my main culprit. Most like also the reason why I didn’t get anything from my check engine light while checking for codes. Any thoughts my car has been sitting for so long and I wiggled the main harness and everything looks like it is plugged in good. I know back in the day I had some extra ground wires to the head, I will check into that also. I found my old manual so I will start trouble shooting the relay and whatever is ion the book.
I am also missing my egr valve. I can’t seam to find it and it is blocked off right now. I know I should have one on but would like to see if I can get everything straighten out first. I read some good info here about detonation under load and the reason to keep egr. If I have mine off just for the beginning is there anything that needs to be done or do people just leave the plugs unplugged and leave the vsc’s alone.
My last question is piston knock. I remember back in the days the cars with the forged pistons would have a little knock at startup until warmed up. I just never understood why my other cars didn’t do that. My mustang had forged pistons and it didn’t sound like that. I know the jap tolerance were a lot closer but not really sure. Anyway I kind of here a little knock and I hope it is not a bearing. I am going to try and put a screw driver up to the valve covers and see if I can tell if the noise is coming form the bottom. It would really suck if the bearings are bad since the motor isn’t Evan broke in.
I also have a vpc sitting with a gcc not sure what chip is in the vpc though. I would really like to get the car back to what it use to be with the mass air before I open a hole new can of worms with the vpc. Man this thing has been sitting for a while I didn’t Evan remember how to check my trimming. Any help would be appreciated. I have just been out of the supra world for some time. Thnaksss
