New DriftMotion CPS Magnet Mod & Digital CPS Upgrade ???

[plaaya69]

Just browsing the DriftMotion website and noticed two brand new CPS items. Has anyone here bought either of these or heard anything about these two new products?

CPS Magnetic Mod:
http://www.driftmotion.com/Driftmotion-7M-CPS-Magnet-Mod-p/dm3519.htm

Digital CPS Upgrade:
http://www.driftmotion.com/Driftmotion-Digital-CPS-Upgrade-for-7M-GTE-p/dm3528.htm

 

[MichiganLC]

DM has videos about it on FB.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Piratetip]

Interesting modification they came up with.

I guess the hall effect sensor retrofit makes sense if your existing CPS VR pickup coils are shot.
Its about the same price as a new CPS.

This could be a good candidate for good CPS housing I have lying around with shot coils.

Though you must be running a standalone to switch to a square wave output.

Another option for those using a stock CPS with a standalone:
You can switch from an analog VR output on the coils to a digital output.
All you need is a Dual VR Conditioning Board from jbperf.com...its only $40.
Won't require any internal modifications on the CPS.
Some standalones struggle with VR signals, so this could be a good modification.
VR signal quality is highly affected by speed, where hall effect has a good signal at all times.
Would of course need to change the standalone ecu CPS settings to accommodate VR to Hall..

 

[suprarx7nut]

Great to see new product development for the MK3 and 7M!

 

[plaaya69]

Awesome tip on that dual VR conditioning board piratetip.

I wish I would have waited to buy a remain A1-Cardone CPS unit and get that digital CPS upgrade instead but that lifetime warranty made me buy one on the spot. I just bought that magnet mod and my remain CPS unit runs good but once maybe every 7 to 10 seconds you might hear a very slight miss or two. I have a older CPS unit in my parts box and I can tell the remain CPS runs a lot better but I will test both CPS units and see what the results are with the magnet mod on both.

 

[Piratetip]

I would be careful using the "magnet mod".
Does not look like a good idea to me.

1. Just sticking it there and using no type of adhesive sounds like a good way to trash your cps if it gets dislodged and fly's around inside.
2. The stock magnet and its poles are aligned in the center of the cps pickup coil (winding).
Sticking a 2nd magnet to the outside of the existing magnet and coil could totally change the output timing and shape of the signal.
The shape of the signal could also be reversed as you are adding 2 more magnet poles perpendicular to the existing ones.

 

[tissimo]

I went with the hall/digital cps upgrade (I haven't received it yet). I was toying with the idea of a crank wheel and sensor, but was a lot of hassle. I doubt I'll run cams (upgraded springs) and will be relatively low power, so the cps should be fine. Now I just need to finish putting the car together.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I would be careful using the "magnet mod".
Does not look like a good idea to me.

1. Just sticking it there and using no type of adhesive sounds like a good way to trash your cps if it gets dislodged and fly's around inside.
2. The stock magnet and its poles are aligned in the center of the cps pickup coil (winding).
Sticking a 2nd magnet to the outside of the existing magnet and coil could totally change the output timing and shape of the signal.
The shape of the signal could also be reversed as you are adding 2 more magnet poles perpendicular to the existing ones.

Good points. I'd love to see a side by side comparison of the signal on an O-scope. Seems like that would need to be done during development of this sort of product.

I can also picture the magnets flying at redline RPMs. Throw in a violent jostle from a bump in the road/track and you might have a neat little grenade. For it to be strong enough to hold without any mechanical fastener that would be one hell of a magnet.

 

[Piratetip]

Someone from driftmotion did post up a video with an osillscope on the output level peaks between the stock vs/ with magnet stuck on it.

But what they did not compare or maybe totally overlooked:
-Signal timing
-Total Shape of the Sine Wave
-Signal integrity across the full RPM range
-Signal cross talk / any interference with the coil next to it?

Ect...

 

[seoul4korea]

Someone from driftmotion did post up a video with an osillscope on the output level peaks between the stock vs/ with magnet stuck on it.

But what they did not compare or maybe totally overlooked:
-Signal timing
-Total Shape of the Sine Wave
-Signal integrity across the full RPM range
-Signal cross talk / any interference with the coil next to it?

Ect...

It was Aaron from Driftmotion

 

[Enraged]

what does the jdperf VR conditioner do? Let's you use VR sensors if you need a Hall input?

I need to run VR sensors (AEM v1), and I've been struggling for ages on how to get a better signal. Closed up the air gap, next on the list is shielded wiring. I'm open to suggestions though.

 

[Piratetip]

Correct.
It conditions the signal from a VR analog waveform to a digital output square wave like a hall sensor would output.
The crank/cam signal timing and tuning would need to be modified to accommodate this, since they aren't triggered the same way.

Yeah the digital signal will also help with low RPM signal quality as well, since the VR signal quality can be low at lower rpm's.

The AEM v1 only allows input of VR signal?
Seems like it should be able to take in multiple types of cam/crank signals, no?

 

[Enraged]

In their infinite wisdom, they made the plug and play 87-88 AEM v1 hardwired for VR sensors only. A few years ago I contacted them, and apparently you can modify the board to access the Hall input, but that's beyond my ability. Now whenever I contact them, I get the canned response that they no longer support the product.

The last info I got: http://aemelectronics.com/?q=forum/epm-and-v1-compatible

 

[Piratetip]

LOL, wow great support from them.
Thats pretty pathetic.

A bit of research and you can figure it out.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?998361-AEM-V2-Hall-sensor-mod
https://forum.aempower.com/?q=forum...l-hall-effect-crankshaft-and-camshaft-sensors

Sounds like you just need to add a 2.2k ohm pull up resistor to run hall sensors.
Trace the wiring and board to see where it is.

 

[Enraged]

I'm at the point now that I'll probably just buy a new standalone. The car runs with the AEM, but whenever I go to a bigger turbo I'll probably switch to something more modern.

 

[te72]

I'm at the point now that I'll probably just buy a new standalone. The car runs with the AEM, but whenever I go to a bigger turbo I'll probably switch to something more modern.

After having a V1 crap out on me, I would recommend the new standalone approach. Engine management has come a LONG way in 20 years.

 

[Enraged]

Yup.

My plan at the moment is get the car back on the road as is (adding a new 75mm throttle body and linkage setup), and then maybe in the summer get an Ecumaster Classic and the Driftmotion CPS.

I think the V1 is fine for what it is, the price I paid was fair, and the software is easy to use, but I'd like some of the newer features that modern systems have.

 

[plaaya69]

I finally received the CPS Magnet in the mail. I tested this magnet on both my new remain CPS and a old CPS in my parts box as well as do two separate cold starts/full engine warm ups with revving up the motor as well. For me I did not notice much of a difference with either CPS. It may have ran slightly better but I can not say for sure as the motor already runs like new. I do know it did not run wired or give any problems with the magnet installed. Not recommended but I also removed the magnet and installed it while the motor was running and no difference was noticed with that either.

This magnet is super strong but I put some epoxy on the end to make sure it does not move. I will leave the magnet on for now and see what happens.

 

[te72]

I think the V1 is fine for what it is, the price I paid was fair, and the software is easy to use, but I'd like some of the newer features that modern systems have.

Capability wise, yeah, it's not bad for a basic standalone. I mean, it can do some neat stuff, but by modern standards, "basic" is appropriate. I was more referring to the hardware itself. That ECU is getting long in the tooth, and it wasn't built to OEM standards I'm sure. Hypothetically speaking, it would really suck if your ecu crapped out on you and you lost your tune somewhere on a road trip.

 

[Enraged]

Thanks, now another thing to worry about. lol