negative Rear Camber after Lowering???
- Thread starter mk3dude
- Start date
mk3dude, mind if I ask a few questions in here regarding camber? I don't want to start a new thread on almost the same thing but don't want to steal your thread, so to speak.
Ahem...it's IJ, not 1J 
He suggested you cut those at a 45 deg angle, then weld for a reason :nono:
He suggested you cut those at a 45 deg angle, then weld for a reason :nono:
Well if anything I could get some support braces welded on either side for more support. I was not able to do the 45 angle like IJ suggested because like I said b4 I could not take apart the arms which I currently have on the car since I need it to drive to work plus they do have a rust on them.
I have a lot of negative camber on my FRONT tires, and my rear tires are perfectly fine after lowering with Illumina 2's and Eibachs. Borhor said in another thread that Eibach's don't lower the car enough so that you can't get both toe and camber correct, can someone confirm this?
The insides of my tires are being eaten up worse than the pics mk3dude put up, and I got them put on 2 months ago or so.
Alignment at Sear's this weekend, I gotta call tomorrow, but I'd like to know some information ahead of time is all
The insides of my tires are being eaten up worse than the pics mk3dude put up, and I got them put on 2 months ago or so.
Alignment at Sear's this weekend, I gotta call tomorrow, but I'd like to know some information ahead of time is all
Both front and rear will align for camber & toe...no excessive wear. I do have it aligned at near the TSRM max for neg camber to improve performance in the turns.
Good, I'm relieved. I'll keep that tidbit of neg. camber in my mind for the weekend too, I didn't even think about that...thanks
just thought i will update you guys. the reason i took so long was because both my toe arm as well as my camber arm in the rear were both seized so i had to cut them off and replace them. just finished that today and noticed a problem. after replacing the camber arms my wheel seems to be sitting at an angle. since i increased the length of the arms by 14mm. the pictures explain my point. let me know if you guys have any suggestions and if i did anything wrong.
Thanks
Thanks
any suggestions? i went to the alignment shop today just to see where i sit my negative camber got worse after extending them :3d_frown: so the guy at the shop suggested i should have shortened them instead of extending which was my original plan. so tomorrow i will be going back to the machine shop to get them to shorten it by 28mm.
Thanks
Thanks
If someone can measure a stock arm Centre to centre I'll measure mine today and confirm, If I have it wrong you have my sincere apologies but I can't think of a reason why I'd have bought a 2nd pair of arms to do mine.
"any suggestions? i went to the alignment shop today just to see where i sit my negative camber got worse after extending them so the guy at the shop suggested i should have shortened them instead of extending which was my original plan. so tomorrow i will be going back to the machine shop to get them to shorten it by 28mm"
Yes. Adding more length to traktionarm will only push out lower part of tire more... and result in more negative camber. logiqally (spelling )
How much in mm did the hk lower?
Yes. Adding more length to traktionarm will only push out lower part of tire more... and result in more negative camber. logiqally (spelling )
How much in mm did the hk lower?
From memory it was getting the combined Camber and Toe settings correct that needed the longer transverse arms, I'll measure today when I go out to confirm, it's NOT as simple as it first appears anyone that's aligned a Mk3 rear suspension will understand this.. (having said that I did mine in 1997 so will check as my memory may be faulty)
A hint here is if you shorten the arms it pulls the back of the tire in making the wheels toe out at the front.
A hint here is if you shorten the arms it pulls the back of the tire in making the wheels toe out at the front.