Need info on catch can

[Rich]

I am looking for an internally baffled catch can. I have visited many websites who sell catch cans, but they don't say if they're baffled inside or not. Also left some questions at a few sites, but so far no response.

I did a search on here and found somewhere it said Greddy have baffled cc's, but I also read on another site the Greddy's are an empty shell. Anyone know which type is baffled?

So, does anyone know for sure which brand/type is internally baffled?
Thx.

 

[SevenMKIII]

Just get one where you can remove the top/bottom and stuff steel wool down in the bottom of it. That will help it condense.

 

[Rich]

What do you guys think of this one? It is designed for mustangs, cobra's and such, so capacity wise I think it would be suitable for us. The seller claims to have sold them for over 5 years and they are used on supercharged and nitrous cars. It costs only $32.
I like the functionality of it, the way the gasses are routed to me looks like it would get out more oil from the gasses than the empty aluminium round and square greddy-like tanks. I would ditch the white plastic bend on the left and use the same brass connection as on the right though.
It is similar to the oil seperators which are used in compressed air systems, the oil seperators on these systems take out about 97% of the oil, but these are made of glass and thus not very suitable for automotive use.
OK, a polished greddy-like tank looks cooler, but for me functionality comes before looks, and I would also mount it low in front of the radiator, so you'd only see it from the top.
What do you think?

 

[fstlane88]

I like it where'd you find it?

 

[Blade2001]

looks like this unit can have some pressure drop.. i thought having any appreciable pressure drop in pcv line is not a good thing..

 

[TurboWarrior]

It might not stand up to hot oil vapour for long either.

 

[89TurboPC]

Here is a quick way to make one yourself similar to the "mustang" one. I did it and had no problem (stock turbo/exhaust).
- Buy a Campell water/air separator or filter similar to the pic below. Harbor Freight do sell one as well. Most place that sell compressor tools and accessory do sell these type of filter. There are bigger filter (also cost) as well.
- Buy 2 brass fitting from local hardware store or homedepot.
- Couple feet of 5/8" hose also from homedepot or autopart store.
Total cost, less than 20 bucks.

 

[starscream5000]

GReddys aren't baffled. I purchased on off of a member on here. Took it apart, empty, fabb'd up my own baffles, stuffed the cold side with ss wool, buttonned it back up, and ready to go. No problems whatsoever.

Buy the no namer and save some money, they are pretty much the same damn thing except the GReddy has it's name machine into it.

 

[holdbrooks]

exactly those are nothing more than moisture traps for air compressors and the work well for most people.

 

[TurboWarrior]

The no namer is useless unless modified. The lower port is on the bottom of the can. All the moisture will just go back into the motor anyway. I modified mine to have the output port on the top so it actually fills up.

 

[Rich]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I guess I'll give it a try, money wise there's not much to go wrong.

@fstlane88, ebay, but I'm not sure I can post the link here, they changed the rules on that didn't they?

@Blade2001, it's not an engine intake, as long as you create some vacuum it works fine, the trick is to eliminate as much oil from the gasses as possible. Too much vacuum on the pcv is also not good, I've seen some sucking up raw oil.

@TurboWarrior, oil vapour from the crankcase isn't that hot, especially not when you run it to the front of the car, by the time it's there it has cooled down quite a bit.

@98TurboPC, that's a glass one isn't it? Not worried it will break when hitting a bump in the road? My suspension is quite stiff; poly bushings, thicker swaybars, upper/lower strutbar, hard springs etc, so my car shudders quite a bit sometimes, especially on ridges across.
But yes, the seperator is the same principle, if you have no issues on breaking I might look into that locally.

 

[starscream5000]

Too much vacuum on the pcv is also not good, I've seen some sucking up raw oil.

Wouldn't happen on a 7M as there are baffles on the valve covers to prevent that. Unless there was a blockage in the head restricting drain back and/or the baffles on the valve covers are removed....

 

[TurboWarrior]

Ah ok for the device you're probably right. But for the lines to it I had to purchase special high heat rubber. The rubber would get soft pretty quick near the valve covers.

 

[Rich]

Wouldn't happen on a 7M as there are baffles on the valve covers to prevent that. Unless there was a blockage in the head restricting drain back and/or the baffles on the valve covers are removed....

I have a 1.5jz, they're baffled as well, but even with the baffles, if you run a too big hose it will suck up more than you want to.

 

[Rich]

Ah ok for the device you're probably right. But for the lines to it I had to purchase special high heat rubber. The rubber would get soft pretty quick near the valve covers.

That's from contact heat, not from the temp of the gasses.

 

[89TurboPC]

@98TurboPC, that's a glass one isn't it? Not worried it will break when hitting a bump in the road? My suspension is quite stiff; poly bushings, thicker swaybars, upper/lower strutbar, hard springs etc, so my car shudders quite a bit sometimes, especially on ridges across.
But yes, the seperator is the same principle, if you have no issues on breaking I might look into that locally.

I just zip tie it to the intake and make sure it isnt' bang on anything.

 

[Rich]

I just zip tie it to the intake and make sure it isnt' bang on anything.

For how long have you been running it?

 

[89TurboPC]

For how long have you been running it?

Little over 2 yrs, but I only put down about 10K miles in that period. If I remember it correctly, I only empty the can about 2 times at about 1/2 way to the white filter.

 

[hottscennessey]

Here is a quick way to make one yourself similar to the "mustang" one. I did it and had no problem (stock turbo/exhaust).
- Buy a Campell water/air separator or filter similar to the pic below. Harbor Freight do sell one as well. Most place that sell compressor tools and accessory do sell these type of filter. There are bigger filter (also cost) as well.
- Buy 2 brass fitting from local hardware store or homedepot.
- Couple feet of 5/8" hose also from homedepot or autopart store.
Total cost, less than 20 bucks.

I ran one of these for awhile.. to be honest you'd be better off with a soda can than that..

The filter CLOGS in no time, which will not allow proper evacuation of the crankcase pressure. On top of this.. it has no flow. I guess this was also because I was running a good ammount of power on a worn motor.

 

[Rich]

I got the ebay-greddy-copy style and added some heat sink from a PC shop in them. I added a seperation plate in the head as well to force the air to go by the heat sink. Here's some pics.

heat sink glued in with a FIPG like glue

seperation plate glued in the head

set-up mounted in a cool place for better oil condensation

here you can see the routing of the hoses

connected to the intake

and hooked up to the valvecover