My setup:
DM T04 60-1/.70 ar, Denso 720cc injectors, big FMIC, AEM 30-1110, 3.5bar MAP, GM AIT (open element), AEM UEGO, 2.5" aluminum hardpipes
OK, so here's my problem.
My car is an 87T and has a fresh 7M-GTE (JDM) with less than 8K miles on it after the rebuild. Motor was rebuilt with HKS 1.2mm MLS gasket and all ARP hardware (rod bolts, main studs, head studs, etc.). Rods were replaced due to being out-of-round from prolonged rod knock. Engine is mechanically sound to the best of my knowledge. It was running super strong when last I drove it.
Last year I upgraded to a Driftmotion 60-1 turbo kit. Afterward, the upgraded competition clutch disc wasn't cutting it. So I decided to upgrade to a 6 puck feramic model. While I had the R154 out, I upgraded to the Marlin Crawler parts. While this was going on, I purchased a 30-1110 AEM EMS and added MAP and AIT sensors for the speed density setup. I had little difficulty getting it to start, but a bit more getting it to run well. I had it towed to Dynolab, where I was already planning on having it tuned. The shop found an incorrect setting (Read MAP voltage as TPS voltage or something), and it started running pretty well after that was corrected. Only problems now were that my 720's were a little big for batch fire injection, and the multiplex ignition was also giving us a misfire at higher RPMs. It was thought that the plugs (3330/BCPR7ES) were probably fouled from tuning, so I replaced them with some NGK Racing pugs in an "8" range (4554s). This was a bad idea for several reasons, least of which was that the new plugs were non-resistor plugs. I pulled these out almost immediately, and I put 3330's back in. The car ran at this point, but still ran rich with a misfire.
I had already ordered a DH61 igniter from a 2JZGE, so using the writeup here I wired it in according to the directions (or so I believed) using the stock 7M-GTE coil packs. At the same time, I ran three new wires for sequential injection and connected them to the 4th plug on the AEM. At this point, we had problems getting the car to run properly. It seemed that the igniter was firing one (or two) of the coils out of order. This was further complicated by the fact that the waste spark coils for the 2JZGE are numbered differently (as pointed out by Roy, my tuner). We switched four of the plug wires at the coil packs (essentially reversing coils 2&3) with a limited amount of success. It was decided at that point that I needed to go back to the stock igniter and batch fire injection jsut to get the car running again. I did this, and the car still did not want to start. In fact, we were not even getting an RPM signal. I traced this back to a broken clip on one of the ECU plugs. I replaced this, and repaired any suspect wiring that may have resulted from the removal of the SAFC NEO that I was using prior to the AEM upgrade. All wiring repairs were done using non-insulated butt connectors and 3M heat shrink. The only wire I have not wanted to mess with is the lower knock sensor wire at the ECU. I think the clear insulation is intimidating me. I'll fix this next time I get to the shop. Any special concerns here?
Car still would not run well, so I went back to a more-or-less stock setup. I put the factory injectors back in, factory AFM, factory IAC hoses, etc. Then I started throwing codes. 22,24, 32, 41, 51... Traced all of this back to the E2 wire that connects the EFI temp sensor, the AFM, and the TPS. I had mis-pinned it when fixing the ECU plugs. Now, no more codes. Car starts and runs well enough to move around inside the shop (meaning we don't have to push it anymore), but still has crappy throttle response. It still sounds to me like an ignition issue. So- I have tried to trace all of the wiring from the ECU to the igniter, and from the igniter to the coilpack harness, and from the coilpack harness to the coils themselves, but I think I must still have something wrong.
I am looking for someone who can verify the factory wiring connectors to and from the igniter, and also the wiring colors between the coilpacks and the coilpack harness. I have read through the EWD and TSRM (and even EPC) quite extensively, but not only are most of the resources at cygnusx1.net for 89+ year models, but the coilpack harness and igniter colors are not listed there at all.
I am also of the understanding that the coils are numbered 1-2-3 (from left to right), and use wasted pairs of 1&6, 2&5, and 3&4. I also do not think it matters which lead goes in which socket on each coil (so long as the aforementioned pairings are observed).
I have opened the 7M-GTE igniter and made a list of each wire color and its function, But I'd really like someone to tell me exactly which wire coming from the ECU goes to which wire on the igniter, and then which igniter wire goes to which wire bound for the igniter harness, and from there, which wires go to coilpacks 1, 2 and 3. I hope this makes sense, and I also hope that maybe someone can offer some helpful suggestions. I am sure that something got re-pinned incorrectly somewhere along the line, but I'm having a bear of a time finding it. Thanks in advance.
(as of now, the car is using completely stock components with the exception of the turbo kit. Not trying to boost 17psi yet, just attempting to get it to run similar to a stock setup)
DM T04 60-1/.70 ar, Denso 720cc injectors, big FMIC, AEM 30-1110, 3.5bar MAP, GM AIT (open element), AEM UEGO, 2.5" aluminum hardpipes
OK, so here's my problem.
My car is an 87T and has a fresh 7M-GTE (JDM) with less than 8K miles on it after the rebuild. Motor was rebuilt with HKS 1.2mm MLS gasket and all ARP hardware (rod bolts, main studs, head studs, etc.). Rods were replaced due to being out-of-round from prolonged rod knock. Engine is mechanically sound to the best of my knowledge. It was running super strong when last I drove it.
Last year I upgraded to a Driftmotion 60-1 turbo kit. Afterward, the upgraded competition clutch disc wasn't cutting it. So I decided to upgrade to a 6 puck feramic model. While I had the R154 out, I upgraded to the Marlin Crawler parts. While this was going on, I purchased a 30-1110 AEM EMS and added MAP and AIT sensors for the speed density setup. I had little difficulty getting it to start, but a bit more getting it to run well. I had it towed to Dynolab, where I was already planning on having it tuned. The shop found an incorrect setting (Read MAP voltage as TPS voltage or something), and it started running pretty well after that was corrected. Only problems now were that my 720's were a little big for batch fire injection, and the multiplex ignition was also giving us a misfire at higher RPMs. It was thought that the plugs (3330/BCPR7ES) were probably fouled from tuning, so I replaced them with some NGK Racing pugs in an "8" range (4554s). This was a bad idea for several reasons, least of which was that the new plugs were non-resistor plugs. I pulled these out almost immediately, and I put 3330's back in. The car ran at this point, but still ran rich with a misfire.
I had already ordered a DH61 igniter from a 2JZGE, so using the writeup here I wired it in according to the directions (or so I believed) using the stock 7M-GTE coil packs. At the same time, I ran three new wires for sequential injection and connected them to the 4th plug on the AEM. At this point, we had problems getting the car to run properly. It seemed that the igniter was firing one (or two) of the coils out of order. This was further complicated by the fact that the waste spark coils for the 2JZGE are numbered differently (as pointed out by Roy, my tuner). We switched four of the plug wires at the coil packs (essentially reversing coils 2&3) with a limited amount of success. It was decided at that point that I needed to go back to the stock igniter and batch fire injection jsut to get the car running again. I did this, and the car still did not want to start. In fact, we were not even getting an RPM signal. I traced this back to a broken clip on one of the ECU plugs. I replaced this, and repaired any suspect wiring that may have resulted from the removal of the SAFC NEO that I was using prior to the AEM upgrade. All wiring repairs were done using non-insulated butt connectors and 3M heat shrink. The only wire I have not wanted to mess with is the lower knock sensor wire at the ECU. I think the clear insulation is intimidating me. I'll fix this next time I get to the shop. Any special concerns here?
Car still would not run well, so I went back to a more-or-less stock setup. I put the factory injectors back in, factory AFM, factory IAC hoses, etc. Then I started throwing codes. 22,24, 32, 41, 51... Traced all of this back to the E2 wire that connects the EFI temp sensor, the AFM, and the TPS. I had mis-pinned it when fixing the ECU plugs. Now, no more codes. Car starts and runs well enough to move around inside the shop (meaning we don't have to push it anymore), but still has crappy throttle response. It still sounds to me like an ignition issue. So- I have tried to trace all of the wiring from the ECU to the igniter, and from the igniter to the coilpack harness, and from the coilpack harness to the coils themselves, but I think I must still have something wrong.
I am looking for someone who can verify the factory wiring connectors to and from the igniter, and also the wiring colors between the coilpacks and the coilpack harness. I have read through the EWD and TSRM (and even EPC) quite extensively, but not only are most of the resources at cygnusx1.net for 89+ year models, but the coilpack harness and igniter colors are not listed there at all.
I am also of the understanding that the coils are numbered 1-2-3 (from left to right), and use wasted pairs of 1&6, 2&5, and 3&4. I also do not think it matters which lead goes in which socket on each coil (so long as the aforementioned pairings are observed).
I have opened the 7M-GTE igniter and made a list of each wire color and its function, But I'd really like someone to tell me exactly which wire coming from the ECU goes to which wire on the igniter, and then which igniter wire goes to which wire bound for the igniter harness, and from there, which wires go to coilpacks 1, 2 and 3. I hope this makes sense, and I also hope that maybe someone can offer some helpful suggestions. I am sure that something got re-pinned incorrectly somewhere along the line, but I'm having a bear of a time finding it. Thanks in advance.
(as of now, the car is using completely stock components with the exception of the turbo kit. Not trying to boost 17psi yet, just attempting to get it to run similar to a stock setup)
