Need help. Won't run after rebuild.

MassSupra89

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Nov 3, 2005
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Just got my rebuilt engine in, all stock electronics from before. Only thing I've done other than a rebuilt engine is Walbro and AFPR. It gets 40psi when I jump B+ and FP.
The car will stumble to start and dies after 500rpm. I had the CPS off one tooth at first but is now set right, and it will almost start for a second then die once I give it gas or reaches 500-600rpm.
My cam gears are straight up, belt is not loose or jumped any teeth.
All IC pipes are connected, same with vacuum lines.
I'm in a hurry to get this thing running, and it just won't fire up completely.


Just went out again, After cranking a few times it got to 500rpm, gave it some gas. It stalled, let out a loud hiss and a puff of smoke from around the intake manifold.
 
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jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Feb 10, 2006
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Check the connection to the AFM...check all the IC clamps/hoses.

Any codes?

You're sure the CPS is installed correctly?...I have a pic if you need it.
 

MassSupra89

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I checked the AFM, tried starting with it unplugged, nothing.

Only codes I got were 24-IAT when I unplugged the AFM.
And 14-Ign when I had the CPS off one tooth.

I'm almost certain It's installed correctly, I used the pic in Adjuster's "7M assembly tips" thread as referance. A picture can't hurt, I can take a pic of mine to verify too.
 

MassSupra89

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You're right JJ. fixed.
I got 14 when I had the CPS one tooth off. I cleared it after I fixed the CPS and it didn't come back?
 

lzalusky

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I would check that the timing belt is installed correctly. Pins in proper cam gear holes, notch marks aligned with notches in case with crank pulley set at zero degrees. I would then recheck that the CPS is installed correctly (there is a good write up on this site).

It seems like your problem is related to these items.
 

MassSupra89

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When the Cam gears are straight up at 12 the mark on the crank is right around 0-2 on the lower timing cover. And I've got my CPS installed just liek your pic schaeff
 

jdub

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And are the coil packs/plug wires in the following order:

Left Coil 1-6
Middle Coil 3-4
Right Coil 2-5

Not to be confused with the firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4
 

MassSupra89

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I don't have a spark tester I was going to grab one in the morning.
All coils and wires worked fine before I took them apart, of course that doesn't mean they can't be broken. I could go do the screwdriver trick.

Yup all in correct order jdub.
 

jetjock

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Jul 11, 2005
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
It's possible for the CPS to cause a 14 but rare. It's usually from something being wrong on the "other" side of the ECU, on the ignition side of the system. Every time a plug fires the ECU gets told it happened. If it doesn't it'll shut the injectors down. Bottom line is no spark at times or spark is occurring but not being reported back to the ECU. If it comes back you may want to read this:

http://tinyurl.com/25olb3

Pardon me Jdub...
 

jetjock

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Jul 11, 2005
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Not good? That's how it should be. Fwiw you can't measure the secondary itself because of the high voltage diodes in it.

Basics first. Do as Doward said and check for spark any way you can. Try and not let the packs fire open circuit though. Use a plug or something. If no spark check the igniter. You do have it grounded (bolted) to the body right?
 

MassSupra89

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Ok, but how come the TSRM gives a spec for primary to secondary resistance?

Igniter is grounded. I'll be checking for spark after dinner.
 

MassSupra89

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Haha Doh. I gotta slow down I guess.
Yea, I was actually looking at the turbo test before I came back to this thread. Back to the garage. Thanks.
 

MassSupra89

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I've got spark. Plug wires are all good. But my plugs were wet and dirty. Gonna try to dry out them out or pick up new plugs in the morning.