Hey all. Bought a cheap GT 3.0 limited which turned out to be a mess....
A bit of history. It wasn't running when I first got it, by the time I got it running 1st thing I noticed, there's no engine check light and half way driving back home head lights started to dim and that's when I realized the alternator wasn't working.
So replaced the alternator as the old one's rectifier fried it self, after letting it idle for a bit i started to notice a burning electrical odor, touched the alternator and it was GAWD facking dam hot!!!
Turned it off, disconnected the battery, grabbed my multi-meter out and found there was continuity between positive and negative leads. Couldn't do the voltage drop test method since I was by myself so had to rely on sound.
Can't remember the circumstances at the time when i checked it 1st time round because where I am at now, there's only continuity when leaving ignition switch ON between engine ground and harness side of AM1 fuse link after disconnecting a few leads and wires. So can't remember whether there still was a short with the key off or not.
Eventually I found 7.5amp gauge fuse to be the source of where the shorts coming from which I also believe is the cause of the CEL light not illuminating, unless digital dashes uses a normal globe that's maybe out then I might be a dick head.
But this is where I'm stuck at now because... it's a digital dash.
The digital cluster circuit doesn't give me much reference to ground points make it difficult where to look at.
Closet thing to engine ground on analogue diagram is the water temp sensor. I'll have alook around there... eventually I'll find it when I get the chance as it's mid-night and raining right now.
Anytips on where I could look at ?
A bit of history. It wasn't running when I first got it, by the time I got it running 1st thing I noticed, there's no engine check light and half way driving back home head lights started to dim and that's when I realized the alternator wasn't working.
So replaced the alternator as the old one's rectifier fried it self, after letting it idle for a bit i started to notice a burning electrical odor, touched the alternator and it was GAWD facking dam hot!!!
Turned it off, disconnected the battery, grabbed my multi-meter out and found there was continuity between positive and negative leads. Couldn't do the voltage drop test method since I was by myself so had to rely on sound.
Can't remember the circumstances at the time when i checked it 1st time round because where I am at now, there's only continuity when leaving ignition switch ON between engine ground and harness side of AM1 fuse link after disconnecting a few leads and wires. So can't remember whether there still was a short with the key off or not.
Eventually I found 7.5amp gauge fuse to be the source of where the shorts coming from which I also believe is the cause of the CEL light not illuminating, unless digital dashes uses a normal globe that's maybe out then I might be a dick head.
But this is where I'm stuck at now because... it's a digital dash.
The digital cluster circuit doesn't give me much reference to ground points make it difficult where to look at.
Closet thing to engine ground on analogue diagram is the water temp sensor. I'll have alook around there... eventually I'll find it when I get the chance as it's mid-night and raining right now. Anytips on where I could look at ?
