My Supra vibrates heavily after acceleration.

SFGGR_Miles

New Member
Jan 26, 2009
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Jacksonville, FL
Hello all. I don't normally post here I just sort of take the information I need and leave, but I can't seem to find an article similar to mine and I'm stumped so here's the skinny:

I have a MKIII with a 2JZ swap and a GReddy T78. I took my car to the most experienced import shop in town to have a boost, wideband Air/Fuel, and Fuel/Ignition controller installed (I hate dealing with wires). My speedometer cable was not working and I already had the parts so I had them do it while I was there.

Everything looks great and works fine at start up. The problem is when I accelerate quickly or when I get in to 5th sometimes 4th gear, my car vibrates very bad and it's very loud. Any ideas?
 

gurley0916

Gurley=Last Name not girl
Mar 10, 2008
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where does the sound seem to be located? Does it seem to come from below the center console? My first guess is your drive shaft carrier bearing based on given info. Is your driveshaft still stock?
 

SFGGR_Miles

New Member
Jan 26, 2009
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Jacksonville, FL
The sound made is from my entire car vibrating. I can't pinpoint it because it only does this while I'm driving, but it seems like it could be from my transmission or maybe as far back as the differential so I guess that would make sense. My driveshaft is still stock.
 

gurley0916

Gurley=Last Name not girl
Mar 10, 2008
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Columbus,OH
I would check your motor mounts and carrier bearing first. Might be a stupid question but its not a bent wheel causing this is it?
 

SFGGR_Miles

New Member
Jan 26, 2009
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Jacksonville, FL
My wheels are fine but that wasn't a bad idea. I ruled out the motor mounts because My RPMs in lower gears wont cause the same vibrations, but I will double check them just in case. Where/what is a carrier bearing?
 

IBoughtASupra

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Mar 10, 2009
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Also, when installing your transmission, does the bracket line up perfectly with the holes on the chassis.

I had this same issue and it turned out to be the bracket was warped and I had to actually push the transmission over the the driver side so I could like up the holes.

I took another bracket from my parts bin, checked that the transmission mount was installed on the two first holes(counting from the front of the car) and installed the new bracket. Everything lined up perfectly and the noise went away.

I thought it was the driveshaft bearing, the diff or even improper assembly of my gearbox since I rebuilt it, but the bracket was my problem which threw the whole driveline out of line.
 

te72

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Mar 26, 2006
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IJ.;1778481 said:
Sight along the Uni joints they should be perfectly in line o---o---o if not there's ya Vibes.
(common fault with these cars)

How do they go out of phase anyway? I know my carrier bearing is shot to hell, as well as the bushings in the rear, but it's not a constant vibration in my case, merely a 'thunking' if I'm not smooth.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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te72;1778764 said:
How do they go out of phase anyway? I know my carrier bearing is shot to hell, as well as the bushings in the rear, but it's not a constant vibration in my case, merely a 'thunking' if I'm not smooth.

Last tube that bolts to the Diff is 2 pieces rubber bonded, over the years the bond fails and slips.
 

toyotanos

What will we break today?
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Nov 29, 2008
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Like this:
p1778787_1.jpg
 

te72

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Mar 26, 2006
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IJ.;1778783 said:
Last tube that bolts to the Diff is 2 pieces rubber bonded, over the years the bond fails and slips.

toyotanos;1778787 said:
Like this:

I see what you guys mean now, I didn't know that about the diff. Will have to look at mine next time I crawl under there. Thanks for the picture Steve, I had the right idea in my head, but this helped confirm it. :)
 

SFGGR_Miles

New Member
Jan 26, 2009
19
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1
Jacksonville, FL
I haven't had a chance to get under the car yet, but this morning I drove it with my stereo off and when I go slow I can hear a clunk clunk clunk noise at random intervals. Also the vibration seems to be coming more from the rear right tire. Lug nuts are nice and tight. I'll let you guys know when I can get under.
 

JCFsupraman

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May 12, 2005
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Cold North
Have you got an SP torque converter installed in it?
Even if you don't have you checked the torque converter?
We have been having major vibration issues and after spend major coin on replacing parts and a tonne more cash on labour to investigate what could be causing it here is what was found...

We figured that it may be the torque converter and after looking at it found that it was never balanced so I paid to have it sent back to the shop who inturn had their builder check it over and supposedly go through it thoroughly. It arrives back after a few weeks and gets reinstalled and the vibration is still there just not as harsh now. My guy checks over the torque converter to find that it had finally been balanced which before returning it there were no markings of any balancing having been done to it and now there are. Plus the new bushing.

Okay so isn't the fact that you send a torque converter out without balancing it a major F&@% up? Now they get a chance to supposedly go over it again to examine what may be causing the vibration and all they do is balance it and replace the bushing. My guy figures that since the builder has gone through it and probably wants to make certain that both his reputation and that of SP isn't tarnished that it would be 100% perfect before letting it back out a second time...WRONG! The vibration was caused by the torque converter as was the engine damage. So now 3 months wasted, $500+ in parts bought unneccessarily, and major $$$ spent trying to figure out their mistake you'd think someone would have something to say. Email sent Monday and no reply yet.

Here's what my guy said to me about it:

Good news Jim! Well...in a way. I FINALLY figured out the REAL culprit for all this destruction! It all started with my friend looking through the transmission closely. He told me that everything looked fine except the front pump bushing where the converter slides into. So, I inspected the bushing and sure enough, it was in HORRIBLE shape for being brand new. So, with that being said, I decided to check your SP converter for an out of round/concentric condition. Sure enough, I found that the part of the converter that inserts into the crankshaft is upwards of .050" inch out of being concentric with the hub that inserts into the transmission! Now with the standard journal/Babbitt style oiled bearing typically you don't want more than .003"inch of clearance for oil to provide an adequate cusion. Taking that into consideration, add .050"inch to that equation and no wonder it feels like the thing is going to explode!


Anyways, you catch my drift. I guess I gave SP's converter guy the bennefit of the doubt...since this is one of the more crucial aspects of building these things. I have attached a youtube link to a video of my findings. Please feel free to forward it to SP.


http://youtu.be/Ws1H01Yp7oQ


Brandon

How could this have happened?
Isn't a test done before a built high stall torque converter leaves the builders shop or the retailer?
Do any of you other people with vibration issues happen to have an SP torque converter installed in your car?
 

SFGGR_Miles

New Member
Jan 26, 2009
19
0
1
Jacksonville, FL
I just got an aluminum drive shaft which I should get in tomorrow. I hope this will fix the problem and I'll post my results then. Thank you guys for all the suggestions.
 

SFGGR_Miles

New Member
Jan 26, 2009
19
0
1
Jacksonville, FL
So when I finally got under the car I discovered that my drive shaft was bolted to my differential by two of four bolts and those were both loose. Mystery solved. Thanks again for all the suggestions.