My MZ21 Soarer buildup

kemicalx

BHGBTDT
Dec 12, 2005
103
0
0
Geelong, Vic
G'day all,

Alas yes, she isn’t a Supra, though those of you aware of the Z20 Soarers will most likely know that they in fact share the same chassis as the mighty A70's and as such also share the same mighty engine and gearbox combinations,


Just a little bit of background on the car, I picked it up October last year for $6,000aud, after a good few months waiting for the previous owner to complete the A340E to r154 conversion. The car went for a roadworthy (required for sale), had a service and general inspection at a local mechanic before I picked it up to ensure all work done in the manual conversion was ok, and along with the usual fluids/filters just made sure the car was in good general health.

Well, the car drove fantastically (for a few hundred kays) I was really impressed with the 7m's ability to pull even at higher speed and seemingly regardless of which gear you were in. But I guess I underestimated the good ol' BHG syndrome, which at 12:30am 120km from home took effect on an unlit windy corner of the Great Ocean Road :3d_frown: So after much swearing and pacing I gave my mates whom had arrived at the holiday spot earlier in the day a call to come and give me a lift, alas (logically) they were all already thoroughly drunk :biglaugh: So I buzzed a Taxi and figured I'd join them and drink away my troubles.

3 days after getting the keys my z21 was sitting by itself on a corner of the GOR. But ahh well, I had always planned on getting a MHG and studs to ensure my 7m would stay BHG free. I just figured I'd get a few months of driving in before the occasion arose hehe.

Once the weekend was over my mates and I headed back home to Geelong stopping enroute to further investigate the damage done, radiator hose had blown off, coolant and a gritty metallic substance had sprayed out over everything. And it was clear the poor 7m had thoroughly cooked.

Once back in Geelong my mate’s old man got us a trailer and we went up and retrieved her. Unfortunately I was heading up to Queensland for a few weeks later that week and would have to wait until after that to crack it open and actually see what needed to be done.

Soooo now that’s out of the way..

Here’s what I found:

Expecting to see coffee I was thankful all the coolant had sunk to the bottom of the sump and as such most of the bottom appeared to be pretty much fine. There were a couple of small rust patches, but that orange colour was mainly due to the camera flash, and all in all it looked pretty good.



Gasket went on cylinders 1 and 6 (surprise surprise)


As you can see the Cylinder head had some surface rust due to being left for the month or so before I got to opening it up. However surface rust on the valves was the least of my problems, It was clear when undoing the head bolts that the torque on each bolt was noticeably different and a good sign the head was warped.. Well warped would be an understatement. It was severely bent. The cam covers could audibly rock back and forth on top of it :S


Rust on the top of the block was again pretty superficial and wouldn’t have been a problem if I was going to be getting it decked.


Scoring is pretty clear on the piston and was much the same on the cylinder wall, running your finger nail along the scuffing it actually didn’t feel all that bad, but none the less, the cylinders were going to require boring and honing and as such the pistons would have to be replaced. The piston rings, which actually in better condition than I expected them to be in, however obviously they too would be replaced.



So that sums up the condition the engine was in. At this stage I was all for rebuilding it, I’d wanted to build an engine for a long time and now had the opportunity, given it wasn’t going to be anything special (I’m a part time working student, living with mates which = poor :p) But I figured I could still learn a lot from the experience.

That will do for now, I’ll continue tomorrow. Right now it’s time for some sleepage.

Cheers Everyone,
Ashlin.
 

BosoMKII

New Member
Apr 24, 2006
497
0
0
NorCal
Nice car! I really like Soarers and its a shame we never got them here in the U.S.
Sorry to hear about the state of your motor. So long as you have the patience for it I think you will have fun!
 

garagefujimoto

Local Tire Destroyer
May 27, 2005
997
0
0
42
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Word.
I have 2 buddy who I have assisted with Soarers.
They are private imports into Canada.
One is a 7M Limited, and the other is a 1JZ swap with a Do-Luck body kit

Soarers are def. FTW
 

92turbo4life

Banned
Sep 12, 2005
1,289
0
0
34
wherever
will, i dont know either < and i posted that lmao> but i guess if my car was rhd drive and targa it changes like the whole aspect and view to me.

like o look a supra thats sweet but if you see a rhd its like holy shit thats gangsta yo.......

and yeah now im ghetto so everything is gonna have yo..
check sig:)
 

kemicalx

BHGBTDT
Dec 12, 2005
103
0
0
Geelong, Vic
Thanks for the replies guys :)

Now that I had a good idea on what needed to be done I set about hunting down all the parts and prices,

I managed to source a replacement head for $190 and then had it resurfaced for a further $60, The bloke that machined it said it too was slightly warped across the middle (about 8 thou) but it after the machining it wouldn’t have been a real problem,



So with that out of the way it was on to the block, The place that did the head quoted the following,

Boring and Honing - $160+GST
Decking - $60+GST
Main bearings - $80+GST
Big end bearings - $50+GST
Hypereutectic Pistons - $228+GST
Rings - $103+GST

Or about $750 in total

Pretty reasonably priced really, however obviously that would be far from the final cost of getting the engine back to a state where it could be dropped in the engine bay, add in a metal head gasket, studs, a complete engine gasket set, belts and all the other little bits and pieces I’d need and the cost was getting close to $1500. Still at least this would mean I’d have a completely rebuilt 7M that could take some boost and presumably last a long while.

It was now however that plans took a change, Advertised on Toymods by a top bloke named Michael (bbaacchhyy) was an already nicely built 7M he was planning on dropping in his beautiful MA61. Lucky for me he was willing to part with the engine for basically the same price it would cost me to build mine up, So I weighed up the pro’s and con’s of both options and Michaels 7M was the clear victor, here’s a run down of what had been done (have an arm load of receipts)

Bore and hone cylinders
Crack tested crankshaft
Check and resize conrods
Grind cams (done by Ivan Tighe)
Inspect and Report on the head
Face and lap valve seats
Tap and fit gallery plugs
20thou oversized Ross forged pistons
Main, rod and thrust bearings
Gaskets replaced
Timing Belt
O-ringing the block
Copper head gasket installed
Performance Valve Springs

My only real concern with the engine was the O-ring installation, as I really would have preferred a metal gasket. I’ve heard that copper headgaskets and O-ringing seals incredibly well and is often used in drag engines. However drag engines are also regularly stripped down, so any issues with the copper not sealing the oil and water galleries correctly aren’t ever a problem. I guess I’d just have to keep and eye on water temperature and make sure to check the oil colour on a regular basis or at least until I was satisfied it was up to the job.

Regardless of that, the forged pistons as opposed to the unforgiving hypertecs I would have used, the quality bearings and fact that ALL the possible work had already been done about 20,000kms ago by a reputable rebuilder had me sold. Although I would have liked to build up the engine myself realistically I think going at it myself would have ended in disappointment if not immediately on first key turn at least at some stage in the future. Due to a lack of precision tool, experience and well.. knowledge :p there was no way I could have built up my engine so thoroughly.

So I got in contact with Michael and we arranged a payment plan, and about 2 months later voila!


As soon as I got it home, Like a 5 year old on Christmas morning a ripped into the gladwrap packing and removed one of the cam covers figuring it was the quickest way to see any of the internals, and first impressions were good. The cam lobes were spotless, and clearly recently reground. The shims too looked superb, and from what I could see of the buckets they looked new too. Yay!


With the cam cover back on, it was time to get the engine on to it’s temporary home for the next month or so chained to the block and tackle up it went so I could fix it to my engine stand.
 

kemicalx

BHGBTDT
Dec 12, 2005
103
0
0
Geelong, Vic
Although trivial, I don&#8217;t think the bright red would suit the Soarer, so while I piece together the rest of the bits needed before I can drop the engine in, I gave it a few coats of paint.


Electrical tape is great as masking things up as it can be stretched around weird shapes, obviously you need to make sure you clean all the surfaces well with a wax and grease remover, otherwise the tape (and the paint :p) won&#8217;t stick.



After about 4 coats most of the glary red was gone, I decided to have a play with some of that wrinkle finish paint for the cam covers, I&#8217;ve seen it used in the past and really like the look.



After a few more coats on the block, I&#8217;m happy with the finished product. So I&#8217;ve started attaching some of the bits back onto the engine. I still have to pick up the intake, throttle body and ISCV gaskets.




Here are the other things I&#8217;ve collected that will be going in before I kick it over,

100mm intercooler, although it has the inlet/outlets in the same positions as the standard one, due to the thickness there was still a fair bit of cutting involved to fit it in.


Using most of the standard rubber joiners and hose clamps I&#8217;ve managed to get 80% of my piping done for the grand sum of $10 :D I am still going to need to buy a couple of 90 bends but that will still work out a lot cheaper than going aftermarket for the hole lot. The alumiun piping has quite thick walls and has an ID of about 2.25&#8221; so it be shouldn&#8217;t cause much lag either :)


For engine control, I picked up a second hand Standalone EMS DualSport which although about 7 years old now has plenty of functionality, is map sensored, has 4 auxiliary outputs, Lambda readout, and can be tuned via either the hand controller or laptop.


Using one of the EMS&#8217;s outputs I&#8217;ll run this solenoid for boost control, once I know the motor is running fine I&#8217;ll probably run about 7psi on the first engine setup and 12 on the second when I want a bit of fun.


And here&#8217;s the Bosch LSM11 o2 sensor I&#8217;ll be using for tuning. They are a bit expensive considering they are technically just a finely tuned narrowband however it&#8217;s the only one that will work with the DualSport, and they still work well.


So what remains to be done before I can get the engine and gearbox back in:

Above mentioned gaskets,
Machine the flywheel, and reattach the clutch assembly
Get alternator/PS belt,
Various vacuum hoses.

And that&#8217;s really it, once that&#8217;s done I&#8217;ll be on to the EMS installation which will be interesting :p

I&#8217;ve already butchered off the standard engine wiring from the 2.5&#8221; thick block of wires that came out with it all. I have a replacement engine wiring loom for the EMS, so regardless of everything else electrical in the car I *should* at least be able to get the engine to run hehe

And that brings you all up to speed with my current progress :)
 

kemicalx

BHGBTDT
Dec 12, 2005
103
0
0
Geelong, Vic
I've ordered the remaining gaskets I need and have taken the standard dump pipe and the ISCV into an exhaust place. I need a bung for the wbo2 sensor installed and a plate to cover where the ISCV goes. I would have done both jobs myself as they aren't exactly complex, unfortunately I lack the tools :icon_conf,

Besides that I bought some injector repair kits and replaced the grommets and filters on the injectors.


All very straight forward, apart from the filters.. Those little buggers are hard to get out.. What i found worked was to give them a liberal soaking in wd40, then although I wasn't too keen to.. get the power drill (drill press would be muuuch better) and a 5.5mm drill bit and *slowly* drill into the copper of the filter, about half way in it will catch and you can pull the filter out. The filter should stop any shavings falling in, but i gave them a second blast with wd40 to make sure.


O-Rings just come off with a little screw driver and some prying,


And I installed the new filters by hand, then made them flush by tapping the injector on a wooden surface. Once again, not rocket science :p

And the finished product,
 

kemicalx

BHGBTDT
Dec 12, 2005
103
0
0
Geelong, Vic
Update time,

I picked up the remaining gaskets and copper washers needed from Toyota. The two intakes, throttle body, and all fuel line washers set me back about $80. I wanted to get the ISCV gasket from them too, but as it would need to be ordered from Japan and take a few weeks to get here I figured I’d just cut one up out of gasket paper. If it's a problem in the future then I’ll get the proper one.


I got a bung welded into the standard dump pipe (damn it looks restrictive) for the Bosch o2 sensor. I will be upgrading the exhaust in the future, but my current priority is getting the car running. So this will do for now.


Just a coupe of pictures during the reinstallation of the fuel rail, injectors and intake runners. For reference both sets of intake bolts ie. "engine to runners" and "runners to plenum" get done up to 13 ft-lbs and although not listed in the manual I used this torque setting for the throttle body and ISCV block plate I had made up.



Last thing that needed to be fixed up before the motor went in was replacement of the sump and oil pickup. The sump that came on the engine had suffered a hit at some stage and had squished up the oil pickup. With the sump off I replaced the pickup with the one from my original engine, likewise the sump. My advice for removing sump gasket goo would be to get a few razor blades, some soft steel wool and some kero, the kero makes it a lot easier to cut through with the blades, steel wool just cleans up any little bits left over. Before applying the new gasket goo I gave everything a good rub over with metho, then left it to evaporate off.

While the sump was off a was happy to see the pistons looked brand spanking new, the cylinder walls looked to have a nice fresh crosshatched finish and the oil pump too looked new. Yay again!


So with the sump on, I had the fly wheel machined, installed it, and the clutch my original motor came with (3 days old). Up on the hoist it went, and with a bit of swearing I managed to get the gearbox back on. Finally with the help of my girlfriend and doobs and a good hour or so of shoehorning later

tadaa!


I've started reinstalling all the other bits and pieces, like the aircon, ps, radiator and hydro fan is back in. Still a few other lines that need to be reinstalled and I haven’t even started the EMS installation but at least I'm making progress :D
 

kemicalx

BHGBTDT
Dec 12, 2005
103
0
0
Geelong, Vic
Update time, I have been progressing a bit slowly. Lots of different hoses and hose clamps I found I needed along the way. But alas, the engine bay is looking pretty much complete. I despise the filter location, but it will have to do until I can sort out some shielding or get some pipe bent up.

Conveniently the off cut aluminum piping I picked up for $10 along with the standard rubber couplers was all I needed to do ALL the intercooler hard pipes. I just have to pick up a 90 degree bend, a couple more hose clamps and the intercooler plumbing will be sorted.

Here are a couple of pictures in its current state. Now it&#8217;s time to start plugging all the wires back in



 

kemicalx

BHGBTDT
Dec 12, 2005
103
0
0
Geelong, Vic
mmm i know... :icon_conf however it will do to get the car kicking over, which is really my major goal at present. I'm guessing it will make my 100mm intercooler somewhat redundant however lol. I will definatly be sorting something out, i'll probally widen the hole i used for the intercooler piping and run the filter down there somewhere. But due to my lack of welding/pipe bending equipiment and skill i'll have to get someone to do that for me.
 

kemicalx

BHGBTDT
Dec 12, 2005
103
0
0
Geelong, Vic
been a looong time between updates.. but i have been busy lol.. and keeping semi up to date on toymods so i'm going to cheat and copy/paste all my updates to here.
 

kemicalx

BHGBTDT
Dec 12, 2005
103
0
0
Geelong, Vic
09-08-2006, 01:08 PM
kemicalx said:
Been a while since an update…

I got pretty stuck on the EMS installation. The DualSport I bought second hand came with a pre-made engine loom suitable for a 7mgte, an EMS 3 coil igniter to save me messing with the apparently tricky standard 7m one. It also came with a hand controller and had the optional laptop port, so I figured the installation would be a piece of cake. And it might have been if I had had any experience installing engine managements systems,

I didn’t. It wasn’t.

I decided to attack the standard wiring loom with some wire cutters, removing anything connected to the standard ECU, or anything else I’d be removing like the ISCV and AFM.


The 3 plugs for the standard ECU which would be removed.

Pinout for the old 10-18-24 7M ECU

After a few hours of tangled mess I had managed to trim down the standard loom significantly. With any exposed wires taped up I reinstalled the standard loom, and then installed the pre-made EMS loom,

To distribute power to the EMS, fuel pump, coils and injectors I needed to install some relays. Using the standard Main EFI Relay (which is switched via ignition) to switch two relays on. Each relay had a run of 50A cable (more than enough) The ECU, ignition and injectors get power from one of the relays when the ignition key is turned to on, the other relay is dedicated to the fuel pump and is controlled by the ground trigger “Pump Relay” output on the EMS. It will switch on for 4 seconds when the ignition key is switched to on to prime the lines. It will only switch back on, and stay going while the ECU see’s an RPM signal from the CPS.



The EMS uses its own intake air and engine temp sensors, a 5 bar map sensor and has inputs to suit the standard 7m throttle and cam position sensors.
According to the installation instructions in the manual the intake air temp sensor should have been installed away from the engine and intake manifold to prevent heat soak, so I installed it into the piece of aluminum piping I added off the 3000 pipe. The engine temp sensor needed to be installed on the engine side of the thermostat so I drilled and taped it in just behind the thermo. The map sensor gets it reading from a barb installed in the baffle plate covering the ISCV hole. The standard CPS can interface with the EMS via a shielded 4 core cable using the NE terminal on the CPS for the 24 tooth trigger wheel, G- terminal connected to ground (and the shielding at the ECU end) and the G1 terminal for synchronization.

One problem I had here was the red +8v wire from the EMS shorting to the cables shielding which prevented the CPS from giving out a signal.


With everything wired in, the car would turn over thanks to the starter motor so using timing light and pulling out and twisting the CPS out of the standard position I got base timing spot on 10degrees


Logging during cranking showed that the sensor readings were going berserk engine temp dropping from 8C down to -11C while air temp would jump from 11.5C to over 49C


RPM was being read fine, the spark plugs were firing but the injector weren’t.
 

kemicalx

BHGBTDT
Dec 12, 2005
103
0
0
Geelong, Vic
09-08-2006, 01:11 PM
kemicalx said:
The erratic sensor readings were due to poor earthing. (Thanks camrygt and JCMF and chuckster too lol) Emailing Peter at EMS confirmed, that the way the loom had been grounded when I bought it wasn’t typical. After installing some 4ga ground straps (negative terminal to block, block to chassis and head to firewall) I removed the EMS loom and re-wired the grounds.
The current set up had the temp sensors and TPS grounding to the head near the fuel rail, the igniter grounded to the chassis and then the four ground wires coming from the EMS connected together and grounded to the chassis.

Fixing the igniter to the firewall and grounding it to the head (same spot the coil ground strap goes to) and then running new ground wires from the temp sensors and TPS back to the four ground outputs of the EMS, then connecting them at the ECU and grounding that to the chassis stopped all interference into the signals during cranking. But still the injectors wouldn’t fire..



Closest I was getting to the engine kicking over was when a blast or two of “Start ya Basted” was used. Then with some cranking it would run for about a second or 2 before dropping out again. Data logging was showing a nice steady 150RPM and a spike up to around 450-550RPM when it started for the split second, all temperatures were steady. All the ECU settings were correctly setup. After a couple weeks of no success (and no money) I’d given up. The plan being to send the ECU unit back to EMS for inspection as I couldn’t for the life of me figure out was stopping the injectors from firing. It was only by fluke that when a mate was around I decided to show him how it can half kick over. Before turning the key however I shortened the MAP sensor vacuum line to about 20cm as the ECU was sitting in the engine bay while I tried to get it going, presuming I wouldn’t have it going anytime soon there was no need keeping the line long enough to reach into the glove box.

Just as well I did! With a spray of SYB it kicked over straight away and kept on running, Though it didn’t sound completely healthy, I don’t care.. It ran, and runs every time I try now. It takes a few cranks to get it to kick and the idle is a little rough but that’s understandable.

Now that it kicks over, I taped up the engine loom, and covered it in some of that flexible PVC conduit, installed the ECU back into the glove box. With a new vacuum line installed the engine now struggles to keep the revs up, dropping down to 350RPM and occasionally stalling. I’ll replace the line with a thin nylon one and presume that will solve the problem.

To get the car moving without assistance I still need to;

-replace the rear gearbox seal and re-install the tail shaft
-add some gearbox fluid (VMX80 until I know it won’t leak)
-whip up some heat shielding for the turbine and
- install the MAC boost control solenoid

I want to get the car drivable enough to stress all the heater hoses, oil and fuel lines. So I can ensure there are no leaks anywhere, then I’ll have to either drive or tow (depending how drivable I get it) the car up to Melbourne to get tuned by an EMS dealer. Have been quoted 2-3hours at $120ph by one bloke and 4.5hours at $100ph by another, not particularly cheap.. But I’ll be able to get them to map some nice boost curves and perhaps play with the antilag stuff too (goodbye cat).

Mockup heat shield


And the remaining bits to go back on


Gotta give a huuuge thanks to Cruzida who gave me heaps of helpful advice while dealing with the EMS installation, cheers mate
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