more na-t crap

[88 Blue_Dragon]

i recently rebuilt a 7mge from a 88, stock everything with the oem head gasket and oem head bolts. i've been having problems with trying to get the title for the car from the old owner (collections has it):3d_frown:. i was just wondering if it would be wise to buy this 90' 7mgte supra that has a rod knock and put my motor in it? put the stock turbo set up on it and run low boost. i have no clue as to what would be the safest psi on the ct26 for my stock motor. and is it safe to run without the oil squirters?

i need help please!

i've been looking for some answers for hours and all the threads i've read just are very vague.

thank you for your help to all that reply

 

[SupraKid]

Read the na-t faqs everything you need should be in there.

 

[88 Blue_Dragon]

i know, i've read it. it's still too vague and kinda choppy. it probably was a little better with everyones input until it got edited. oh well, thanks for the help.

 

[SupraKid]

True about the edit of na-t faqs, To answer your question 10 psi should be the max any higher and youll go boom. As for the oil squirters it will be save without them as long as you dont go over 10 psi. If this is a dd id just run a few pounds 3-4.

 

[88 Blue_Dragon]

yeah its gonna be my DD so i don't wanna run very high boost, i was thinking 6 psi at most. i don't want it to go boom cuz i've already spent about 4k on the rebuild as it is lol. thanks for your input, you've been a great help.

 

[SupraKid]

I try lol.

 

[mecevans]

i recently rebuilt a 7mge from a 88, stock everything with the oem head gasket and oem head bolts. i've been having problems with trying to get the title for the car from the old owner (collections has it):3d_frown:. i was just wondering if it would be wise to buy this 90' 7mgte supra that has a rod knock and put my motor in it? put the stock turbo set up on it and run low boost. i have no clue as to what would be the safest psi on the ct26 for my stock motor. and is it safe to run without the oil squirters?

i need help please!

i've been looking for some answers for hours and all the threads i've read just are very vague.

thank you for your help to all that reply

Group A race cars had no oil squirter's btw. if you have a donor car all you need is an oil line kit for a GE block. you seem to think before you do something to a motor, which is good. your motor is rebuilt and even if its not forged your golden for 500+ hp. 7M engine failure is mostly caused by owner abuse(overevved,etc). only difference is higher compression meaning more lower end grunt and faster spool which i want in my case. you do have a slightly higher chance of detonation but i am addressing that with some of the below. my CR is about 20psi more than a stock GE because the head was machined so check where yours is at. that will determine how much boost you can run safely.

what im going to do other than stock

ARP's on original HG
cheap 3in DP (you can us the stocker, easier in my case)
flow tested and clean injectors
new O2 sensor
DM GE oil lines
GTE cams
shimming valves
Knock sensor rewire and tap an extra hole in block
clean all grounds
no oil cooler in the mean time till i get the $ ( not an issue for you all provisions are there)
ported wastegate with stock boost.
oil drain welded onto stock pan (dm kit includes this)
higher octane gas ( common sense for any turbo motor and not that much more expensive in the long run)

im going to use a cheap evergreen gasket set. everyone flames ebay kits but it looks solid and its not that paper BS. make sure you do not nick the surfaces. i soda blasted mine with great results.

 

[89supramk3]

:evil2: crazy bro!!!!! I like the way ur build is put together. im basicly copying ur build lol, Iv'e got my 7m put back together its just that im waitin for more money. Well i have ARP head studs new oem headgasket already put on with a spec stage3 clutch, rebuilt r145 tranny and about to look for a n/a-sport model 4:30 lsd.. lol i wanna shoot for 385hp at 9psi on a ported ct26 :aigo:

 

[shaeff]

Group A race cars had no oil squirter's btw. if you have a donor car all you need is an oil line kit for a GE block. you seem to think before you do something to a motor, which is good. your motor is rebuilt and even if its not forged your golden for 500+ hp. 7M engine failure is mostly caused by owner abuse(overevved,etc).

what im going to do other than stock

ARP's on original HG
cheap 3in DP (you can us the stocker, easier in my case)
flow tested and clean injectors
new O2 sensor
DM GE oil lines
GTE cams
shimming valves
Knock sensor rewire and tap an extra hole in block
clean all grounds
no oil cooler in the mean time till i get the $ ( not an issue for you all provisions are there)
ported wastegate with stock boost.
oil drain welded onto stock pan (dm kit includes this)
higher octane gas ( common sense for any turbo motor and not that much more expensive in the long run)

im going to use a cheap evergreen gasket set. everyone flames ebay kits but it looks solid and its not that paper BS. make sure you do not nick the surfaces. i soda blasted mine with great results.

The Group A cars were purpose built race cars that were maintained by professional race teams. For our purposes, oil squirters are a good thing.

His motor might be good for 500hp, but that's assuming that whoever tunes it knows what they're doing, and that the block was properly built. There are far too many variables just to state that the motor will hold that kind of power for any amount of time.

only difference is higher compression meaning more lower end grunt and faster spool which i want in my case. you do have a slightly higher chance of detonation but i am addressing that with some of the below. my CR is about 20psi more than a stock GE because the head was machined so check where yours is at. that will determine how much boost you can run safely.

You also might want to mention that with a higher static compression ratio, that the motor will inherently be closer to the detonation threshold with even less boost, which again goes hand in hand with a very, very good tune. High static CR + boost + lean = boom.

 

[Ma70.Ent]

I'm sorry that the NA-T FAQ is vague, but honestly, it's meant to be a general guide, not a "hold your hand" type thing. I made it short anyway, because most people here are too lazy to read stuff in the stickies and they just ask here or somewhere else. Here are the answers to your two questions:

1. Safest PSI on the CT26 for your stock motor? The lowest boost possible. But I know that's not the answer you're looking for. It depends on what type of fuel you run, conditions where you live, and what exactly your setup is.
2. It is safe to run without oil squirters? Yes, it is. Poodles post on the bottom of the NA-T FAQ says that the Group A Race Cars did not use oil squirters. They did have built engines though, but still, running conservative boost on a basic turbo like the CT26 should be fine. I threw that bit about the NA-T FAQ in there so you don't think it's totally useless

Just so you know, my brother ran an NA-T GE Block GTE Electronics setup for years before he decided to switch engines (not because he was forced to, but because he wanted to). He even went as far as to go with an upgraded turbo too. It's all in the maintenance, management, and being smart in general...