MkIII Fix-It List. Anything to add?

Neodeuccio

Addicted to boost...
Sep 30, 2006
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So, long story short, I'm now working in a garage and have enough money to start fixing all the problems with my 88 turbo and begin upgrading. So I'm putting together a list of what I need to do, and a list of what I've done. Take a look and see what you think...


STILL NEEDED:

Priority: High
-Find and repair fuel leak
-Find and repair coolant leak
-Find and repair oil leak(s)
-Find and repair clutch leak
-Install new clutch/flywheel (original is slipping after ~160k miles)

Priority: Medium
-Install new shocks/springs (and mounts if needed, stock suspension is shot)
-Flush all old fluids
-Alignment

Priority: Low
-Install braided stainless brake lines
-Install new speakers
-Install Lexus AFM/injectors/AFPR/etc...
-Install new 3" exhaust
-Install new intercooler/intake piping



DONE:

Priority: Medium
-Install new speedo cable

Priority: Low
-Install new stereo
-Install new power antenna




If there's anything you think I've overlooked or should double check and possibly add to the list, please let me know.
 
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Neodeuccio

Addicted to boost...
Sep 30, 2006
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Seals, bushings, etc are all ok, but not great. I'll do them in round 2 unless needed sooner.
It does need an alignment though, thanks for reminding me.
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
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Unless its a track car, I'd take out the SS brake lines. The SS lines tend to be prone to failure and dont really gain you much on a dd. if your lines are bad for some reason seek out some good new lines that aren't SS.
 

planemos

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Apr 22, 2011
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What fails on them? Driftmotion ones? When I put my DM ones in the other day it wouldn't thread in properly. It's kinda hard to explain but the threads don't start until halfway along the male end and you must force it in kinda to get to where the threads begin. I had to install mine to adapt to the Cobra calipers.
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
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Various things can fail. There's a reason you probably haven't heard of ANY OEM using SS brake lines on their cars. I dont think any company uses SS lines on production cars. Not Ferrari, Lambo, Lotus...etc.

Taken straight from NSX prime's Wiki:
http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Brake_Lines
NSX Prime Wiki said:
Reasons To Avoid SS Braided Lines

[BDV] Well it happened. Someone in a Buick tried to terminate his wife's life and my NSX. I panic braked, downhill, at 35 mph and managed to stop just before my two year old Comptech stainless brake-line ruptured. The pedal went to the floor. The failure was right where the plastic support is near the caliper, which is supposed to stop these kinds of things from happening.
I remember the FAQ discussing this issue, and thinking it would never happen to me. Thank God it wasn't at the end of the back straight at Road Atlanta.
For all you our there with stainless lines. Beware. My braiding actually burst.

[DH] ...it turns out that my aftermarket steel braided line purchased 3 years ago (can't remember the vendor name, I got the lines from Rod Millen Motorsports) separated at the caliper. The line goes into a screw on the caliper which has a hollow fitting for the hose to go over, and apparently I blew it off the fitting.

[FG] [the lines bursting] is the risk that you take with stainless lines. Otherwise, don't you think all manufacturers would have made them standard? Among the BMW and PCA club members I talk to, most shy away from stainless lines unless they are religous about changing the lines every year or two.

[NM] I too thought that stainless steel lines / fittings were the important to high performance braking and was considering it too. After talking to Randy M. at RM Racing I was convinced this was not a good idea for a production car.
Randy told me he does not recommend these NOR does he use them in the RM Racing NSX. The braking and rumored flex are not affected by the plastic brake lines. He said that one person who had them installed had them come apart right after leaving the installer and was in an accident in their NSX. Maybe this is why Ferrari uses the plastic lines in their production cars too. BTW - I can not recall a single member on this list ever experiencing a problem with the plastic lines failing. A few have suspected (right or wrong) that some perceived braking problems were the result of the plastic lines - but that is another story.
I may not have all the details, but I bet if you private Randy you will get the whole scoop.

[HPA] My $.02 again (long winded as usual): SS lines are tough to a point and are a special application product (i.e. for racing and usually replaced between races just as tires are replaced regularly throughout a race). The SS braiding not only protects the "rubber" beneath from outside physical damage but also act as a girdle that lessens brake line flex (swelling).
On older OE lines with a partner applying the brakes I can see the lines flex, tense and swell slightly. The SS braiding lessens the amount of this flex and you notice it as a firmer pedal feel (fluid type contributes to this as well). They look good, last awhile, then once you get it out of your system you usually wind up going back to OE lines, unless track events are your life and you don't mind this short coming.
Remember, this race inspired product was invented to protect brake lines from track debris left by accidents the driver sometime has no choice but to drive through. The firmer pedal and faster piston actuation was a side benefit. The "look" is just that. If you want long lasting (relatively speaking) stick to OEM lines. If you want more protection and performance try synthetic cloth braided lines (if anyone is specifically marketing them for the NSX I don't know; if not, custom made by a fluid fastener maker is an option if you can find someone willing to make them for you). That last comment is an option not a recommendation.
If I wanted more protection I'd just place a plastic braided sleeve over the OE lines during a line change. OE brake lines are really good quality for what I've encountered under Honda's and Acura's thus far. If you drive hard and brake hard just inspect your lines regularly and plan on replacing them about every 2-3 years or whenever the fluid is recommended to be flushed and replaced. Might as well get the Speed Bleeder replacement fittings (www.speedbleeder.com) while you're at it and get some Motul or Lockheed fluid.
Note: Used to be that rubber composition allowed you to guesstimate the wear of various belts and hoses with warning signs such as fraying, cracking, mushiness or brittleness. New rubber composition still looks good past its recommended change interval. You wouldn't take a chance on missing your timing belt change interval and having the valve service missed either, would you? That's a very expensive chance.
No matter how good (or excellent in Honda's/Acura's case) a product is the manufacturer recommendations are there for a reason. Some stretching of guidelines are forgivable by the car while others are not. Common sense should rule that no matter what go-fast improvements are made stopping should always be more important. With the emphasis there proper preventive maintenance is the key. Forums such as this help to fill the knowledge database when experience is unavailable.
 

planemos

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Apr 22, 2011
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Various things? There isn't a lot of "things" on a brake line. It sounds to me like 1 or 2 people didn't allow for suspension movement when they installed their brake lines. Or possibly 1 specific brake line manufacturer didn't crimp theirs properly. Or it is entirely possible that someone sold a shitty braided line because there are a few types of braids that you can use. Some of them have multiple layers. Some of them can look like a braided material on the outside but really be crap. I doubt driftmotion would sell crap... well, I hope.
 

Neodeuccio

Addicted to boost...
Sep 30, 2006
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I've always heard that braided lines were the way to go, so I'm curious about this. Unfortunately, I doubt there's been an actual study done as to the durability and life of the braided lines vs rubber, so when it comes to a scientific answer, I think we're screwed. Sure, some people have had braided lines fail. But the rubber lines fail too. So do solid steel. Shit happens. But like I said, I guess its just to-each-his-own, since there is no real authority on the matter.
 

Backlash2032

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Sep 20, 2010
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So explain to us why the lines fail, rather than just saying "a few people have had problems. So don't use them"

If we went by that logic.. nobody would have a 7M anymore would they? :p

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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Quality braided lines are fine.

Cheap garbage or ones that use reusable fittings that can be improperly assembled by end users with NFI are another matter.

A good braided line will be crimped at each end and sleeved with a clear outer to prevent ingress of road grime that can be abrasive and cause failure.
 

onemancrew

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Feb 7, 2012
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Backlash2032;1820420 said:
So explain to us why the lines fail, rather than just saying "a few people have had problems. So don't use them"

If we went by that logic.. nobody would have a 7M anymore would they? :p

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk

The testing is at the bottom of the page in that link: http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Brake_Lines

It reads

2. The "whip-resistance" test.

This test involves mounting the hose on a flexing machine, pressurizing it to 235 psi, then running it at 800 RPM for 35 hours.

When steel-armored hoses were run through that test, it was found that the hoses tended to bend right at the junction between the hose and the hose-ends. After a while, the stainless-steel braid would start to tear, and the broken wires would cut into the inner Teflon liner, causing it to fail.

One brake-hose manufacturer fought to modify the whip test, claiming that their stainless-steel hose could easily comply with the test if only a supplemental support were used during testing to move the flexing-point away from the hose-ends.

The NHTSA ruled on the issue in August, 1996, deciding to allow manufacturers to use the supplemental support... But only on the condition that the same support was used when the hoses were installed on a real car.

FMVSS 106 was modified to include the use of the support, and the new rules went into effect in October, 1996.

"DOT-approved" stainless-steel brake hoses went on sale immediately thereafter.

So... Now that you know the whole story, you can make an informed decision as to whether you want to put these things on your street-driven car.

If you decide to install them, you need to be aware of a few things:

When you install them, you must make SURE that they can't kink, twist, or stretch under any combination of wheel droop, bump, or (for the front wheels) steer.

The stainless-steel outer braid will cut through anything against which it rubs, so you have to make sure that the lines don't rub back and forth over anything important.

Stainless steel lines have been known to fail when dirt gets between the outer braid and the Teflon lining... As the braid moves back and forth, the dirt abrades the Teflon and can make it rupture. If you look at stainless-steel lines on motorcycles, you'll see that many of them are encased in plastic tubing, apparently in an effort to eliminate this problem. The tubing also helps considerably with the abrasion issue mentioned above.
 
Oct 4, 2011
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I have been using quality SS brake lines on my cars for around 10 years now. Not ever one single problem, from the brake lines anyways.
 

wingnut

New Member
Mar 4, 2012
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check your gasket for spoiler because that can cause water build up and rust, also to add if your gas handle gets stretched just take the knob that holds it shut off and put some washers on it and reinstall it helps with opening the gas door when the cable screws up.
 

te72

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Mar 26, 2006
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On the OP's original list, I'd recommend replacing the bushings. Basically anything rubber, at this point, is likely to be 20+ years old and worn out. Basically, replace now (while the car is apart) what you wouldn't want to replace on the side of the road in the dark. That's usually my rule of thumb. :)