MKIII build...Drift

[Boost Lee]

Yes, very responsive, and will make good power up top as well.
It will make over 400rwhp on pump gas with a good tune.

It's very streetable, and will rock someones socks.

I loved my CT2657.

-Jeff

 

[spipedong]

I have had this problem before. (assuming your CPS is good)

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=49

In my case, the tach wouldn't bounce on cranking so I replaced the CPS with no luck. Noticed I had no check engine light and started tracing every wire on the ECU.

1. Check for +12V on BATT (Pin 1) (Black/Yellow)... That's first and foremost. If you have no voltage there you have no power from the battery.

2. When the key is turned on you should see +12V on IGSW (Pin 2) (Grey or sometimes Black/Orange). This is the signal from the key to turn on the ECU.

3. You should also read +12V on M-REL (Pin 4) (Black/Orange). This is the signal from the ECU to turn on the EFI Main Relay.

I wrote these are in sequential order... You must have #1 before you will have #2 and so on.

 

[spipedong]

Oh yeah, you should also see +12V on B and B1 (Pins 12 & 13) (Black/Red).
Basically:

There's always power on Pin 1.
The key switch sends 12 volts through the IGN fuse to pin 2.
If those are both good, the ECU grounds pin 5 (check engine light), switches 12 volts to pin 4 to turn on the main relay.
Main relay applies 12 volts back into the ECU at pins 12 and 13 (along with the injectors and sensors).

As you can see it's a very sequential process that normally happens in a fraction of a second.

The wiring diagram is immensely helpful in troubleshooting.

 

[MPower]

update new pics on progress.
just stripped it and removed the glue

im ready for a cage. i dont know how im goin to go about this yet(buying or building one)

anyone want a honda engine? i have one h22 and a f20b

 

[MPower]

i just went out to check for 12v on the harness and this is what i have found out.

1. the ECU has 12v from pin#1
2. when i turn the key no power at all and the fuse is still good. is it safe to run a jumper from the batterie to pin#2 (igsw)on the ECU?

 

[MPower]

made a jumper to pin 2 and still no power on 12 and 13. when i was under the car today just looking around i noticed that the block and oil pan are blue. does it coem this way stock?

also i found a bad area from rust

looks like ill be cutting and welding a new section

when i was taking out all the plugs today i noticed this under the intake manifold.

 

[MPower]

after reading the tsrm i think i need an ecu

 

[gofastgeorge]

1)-what should i pay for the lexus maf?
2)-what should i pay for the lexus injectors?

1)-As little as you can and still get a good low mileage one with no damage to the honeycomb.
There are always low mileage ones out of Japan on eBay.
Buy one from a worn out, 200,000 mile Lexus from a US junk yard, and be prepared to buy another, and another..............
By the way, they are called AFMs, not MAFs.
A MAF is a hot-wire style of sensor like the Nissans use.
Totaly different from the Karmon Vortex generators that Toyota uses, and calls AFMs

2)-What ?????
You don't use lexus injectors with the Lexus AFM.
You use a good set of aftermarket 550-680cc injectors.
They need to be top feed, low impedence.
Note: 'Good' does not include anything from Venum........
Or most of the cheap crap on eBay being sold as 'Lucas', or 'Denso'.
The chinese are pumping counterfeit ones through eBay.
Look at the seller's other items,
and if he has any of the other chinese crap, STAY AWAY !!
(this also goes for the bogus 'Walbro' fuel pumps too.)

RC is good, as are GReddy, HKS, and SARD.
Buy cheap injectors, and be prepared to buy new pistons.......

 

[MPower]

i know its been awhile but the supra project is finally on the way. over the weekend i pulled the engine for first time for me.
after i pulled the harnes threw the firewall i noticed that the harness has been cut and very poorly taped back i found wires going to nothing so im going to go with that being a big problem.
when i got the engine i the stand i started the break down. after about 3 hours of taking apart i got it down to a bare block. now time for mods:biglaugh:
the first things i want to attend to is the oiling system and the headgasket. but i want to know what else i should do while im at this stage.
-for a head gasket im going with the hks 2mm Stopper
-arp studs
for the oiling stystem im not sure what i want to do or what i should do i know im going with the AN oil pump line from driftmotion or ill make my own but what i im not to sure about is the making the oil pump from deeper in the pan. do i just put a sleeve over the sump?

for the harness im not sure if i should repair it or get a new one. i found so many spots were it was chopped but i dont know why it would be chopped. i have pics but i hanvt got around to up loading them.

ill have pics of the build in detail as i go. but their has been one change with this project. im building to sell it, the car is always for sale and when im done im shooting for a reliable 400hp supra. now of course ill drive until it sells but i just want to keep building different things and i do want to move to something a little more usefull like a deisel build or something with the way gas is going id like to look at other options for fuel.

 

[WhtMa71]

You should PM a mod and get them to move this to the build-up section

as for your oil system, take a look at this. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838

And its probably a very good assumption that the reason the car wont crank up is because of the hacked harness. Take it all off the motor and try to trace the loose ends and reconnect them.

 

[JT_Supra87]

I had the same problem with my check engine light not coming on. I replaced the Main EFI relay and it fixed my problem. Funny thing was is that the old relay tested good. The EFI relay is the round relay located righ behind the EFI fuse under the hood.

 

[MPower]

i think its more than the relay. the fact that i found 5 wires that were would connected to nothing would be a big problem.

now the next thing is should i build the bottom end or just leave it stock?

 

[WhtMa71]

If you're only going for around 400whp i would just leave the bottom end stock. The stock bottom end can handle much more than that with a good tune. Make sure its in good mechanical condition first and has good compression. Deffinately do the oil system mod and you may want to think about getting the oil pan baffled if you're going to be sliding.

 

[MPower]

i know its been awhile but i have a little update on the build. after cleaning up the block and pistons i noticed that its .50 over with new piston and rigs. im almost to the point of putting it back together just waiting on more $$$

 

[shaeff]

Where in NY are you?

 

[Quin]

I thought blocks were considered done after 40 over?