Mechanics Are Useless: Oil Press Gauge Troubleshooting & TPS Issue

ChadMKIII

Yup, Thats The G/F
Jul 14, 2006
369
0
0
33
Bay Area, Ca
So, had a HG job replaced, I'm sure some of you have seen my rants, anyway I've spent the last month trying to get the new problems that the shop caused worked out. Details of each problem are below. My latest installments:
-Oil Pressure Gauge inoperational
-Car flutters and dies sometimes on startup, idles high, and dies occasionally (I thought it was a vac leak, had vac sys inspected and it supposedly is OK, throwing a code 51 now so I'm guessing TPS issue?)

Oil Pressure Gauge: Worked flawlessly before, won't move at all (doesn't even zero). Mechanic got sick of working on fixing the gauge so he referred me to another place and told me he'd cover it. This place says they get readings from the sending unit. They said they "tested" the gauge itself and it didn't move *much*. So, they say that my gauge is faulty. Funny, it worked flawlessly before the HG job. I doubt its coincidence. So, whats the procedure for troubleshooting? I checked the TSRM, but I don't know how to actually test what it lists. Links or help would be appreciated.

Code 51: Well, I'm throwing code 51, I've reset the ECU twice and get it each time again. At times, when I start it (usually either when cold in the morning or after its been warmed and sits for about 30min and I start), the car will flutter around btwn 200~650 RPM's for 3-7sec before it dies. I can save it by holding it at about 1700RPM for 10sec~ish. It also dies at times, most often when I engage the clutch and hit the brakes, esp if I do that *right* after heavy acceleration, but it also does it randomly. Plus, it now regularly idles at 950-1300, except in front of my mechanic. So, I'm guessing a TPS mis-alignment or wiring problem. I will be checking that soon w/ a multimeter and all, but does anyone have any other ideas on the problem?

Thanks! I'm sick of all these problems, and just want my baby in perfect condition again! :p
 

edi

New Member
May 17, 2006
198
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87116
www.pxracing.com
i also have the code 51. and i hate it too. after its warm and have been driven for a whille mine would idle at like 1300 rpms. it drives me nuts and i think its making me run rich, too. i dont think my TPS is out of adjustment, i just thinks its busted all together. i just got to find the time to fix the damn thing.
 

ChadMKIII

Yup, Thats The G/F
Jul 14, 2006
369
0
0
33
Bay Area, Ca
Bump! I still need help on the oil press gauge... :(
Thanks for the link Shaeff.

Anyone know what to do about the gauge? Please point me in the right direction, cuz I really have no idea on that one.
 

gtsfirefighter

SM Expert on White trash
Sep 26, 2006
2,965
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54
Weatherford, Texas, United States
ChadMKIII said:
Bump! I still need help on the oil press gauge... :(
Thanks for the link Shaeff.

Anyone know what to do about the gauge? Please point me in the right direction, cuz I really have no idea on that one.


I had the same problem so I just went to a junkyard and bought an entire cluster and installed it. It took about 15 minutes. Oil pressure gauge works, now I just have a bhg.:nono:
 

plaaya69

87T Supra
Nov 18, 2006
947
7
18
Lake County, IL
If I were you I would take the cluster out of the car, take out the oil pressure gauge, and see of the oil pressure gauge mechanism is good or bad. The mechanism is very very fragile and it has a very tiny metal bar and a litttle plastic peice holding the metal bar and what I think is that the plastic peice broke and is not holding onto the metal bar. I replaced mine oil gauge on my 87 supra because this happen to me and I still have the broken gauge.
 

ChadMKIII

Yup, Thats The G/F
Jul 14, 2006
369
0
0
33
Bay Area, Ca
Thanks guys, but is there any way to tell if there is a problem in the wiring? Like anything I could plug into the gauge to get it show a reading? If the gauge worked perfectly fine before it went the shop, I see no reason why it should be the gauge itself. Too much coincidence. I seriously think the problem is somewhere between the sending unit and the gauge, and not IN either or them. But that's just my thoughts. Do you have to pull the dash to replace the cluster or how does that work? I'm REALLY not wanting to take the cluster out.....

So other troubleshooting ideas not involving pulling the cluster would be great! Thanks.
 

gtsfirefighter

SM Expert on White trash
Sep 26, 2006
2,965
0
36
54
Weatherford, Texas, United States
ChadMKIII said:
Thanks guys, but is there any way to tell if there is a problem in the wiring? Like anything I could plug into the gauge to get it show a reading? If the gauge worked perfectly fine before it went the shop, I see no reason why it should be the gauge itself. Too much coincidence. I seriously think the problem is somewhere between the sending unit and the gauge, and not IN either or them. But that's just my thoughts. Do you have to pull the dash to replace the cluster or how does that work? I'm REALLY not wanting to take the cluster out.....

So other troubleshooting ideas not involving pulling the cluster would be great! Thanks.


When I bought my car the gauge was already f'd up. The guy I bought it from said it worked perfectly before he had the timing belt and seals replaced. After he got it out of the shop it was fried. Check the wire running off the sending unit to be sure it's not jacked up but it sounds like the guage is bad. It's much easier to replace the whole cluster than just the gauge itself but if the mileage difference is an issue take the cluster apart and just replace the gauge. I'm sure somebody on SM has a cluster they'll sell you. Good luck.
 

CPT Furious

Now MAJ FURY!
Mar 30, 2005
607
0
0
KDOV
I agree with Plaaya. Mine accidentally grounded out once due to frayed wiring and the pointer actually disengaged itself from the mechanism when it got to max scale. If the sending unit is working correctly and you can get continuity from the wire attached to the sender and the plug on the back of the cluster (check TSRM), I suspect he accidentally applied too much voltage or grounded out the gauge somehow.

Either way, pull out the cluster (doesn't take too long) and look at the internals of the gauge itself.

Good luck!