I am upgrading to a 60-1 CT26 so I need a boost controller as not to blow it to shread. I looked at some of the manual boost controller on ebay and it look very simple to create. Has anyone create one before? I am gona go to homedepot or what not and buy some valve and stuff to see if it is possible to make one at home.
Manual Boost Controller ???
- Thread starter sathu
- Start date
or instead you could pm drjonez and see if he has any of his MBC's handy. $25 aint bad instead of spending nearly the same amount for parts and then putting it together yourself. i bought one from him a while back and it works great.
I made mine for $9... and i have half the parts left over for another one. very simple to make. you'll need a tap, hack saw, teflon tape, vacuum line, and a bunch of other stuff. i can't remember exactly. The ball and spring will be the hardest to find.
Yeah you can make your own but i suggest you get one from Dr. Jonez who is well know on these forums, so i suggest you pm him or visit his site www.4cefed.com and contact him about getting a MBC. A lot of people like his MBC and there like $20. It better then going to homedepot and finding the parts, it just better to go with his because you know it works. You also need a new boost gauge also so get that before you put the mbc on.
Pete
Pete
you will not even find all the parts at home depot...but heres how to do it conpliments of, sorry to say this, DSMtuner.com by gsxtacy...(((go buy a turboxs for $70 or buy my used turboxs for $35)))
Materials:
(1) 1/2" Brass TEE
(2) 1/2" Brass Fittings with 1/4" Hose Barbs.
(1) 1/2" Brass Plug fitting
(1) 1" medium duty Spring (test a few by squeezing them with your index finger and thumb, you want it to be resistant, but not too stiff)
(1) 3/8 Metal Ball
(1) 3/8-16 Allen Head bolt 1 1/2"
(1) 3/8-16 Nut
Tools necessary:
Vice
3/32 drill bit
3/8 drill
5/16 Drill bit
Small Hammer
Center Punch
Sharpie Black Permanent Marker
3/8-16 Tap
Tap Handle
Procedure:
Take the Brass Tee and put the plug in the top or bottom. (doesn't matter)
Take the Sharpie and mark the center of the plug.
Take the center punch and small hammer and indent the center of the plug.
Use the center punch and hammer to indent the middle of the flat side of the tee.
Use the 3/32 drill bit to drill a tiny hole on the flat side of the tee.
Take the 5/16 drill bit and drill a hole straight through the plug using the vise to hold the TEE still.
Now, Tap the hole you just drilled with the 3/8-16 Tap and handle.
Take one of the 1/2" fittings with 1/4" hose barbs and put it in the side of the tee.
Now take the 3/8-16 nut and thread it on the bolt all the way up it to the top where the head is.
Screw the bolt TIP into the hole you just drilled and tapped.
Flip the Tee over and drop the spring into the Brass Tee from the bottom (or directly opposite the bolt you just screwed in)
Place the Check Ball on the end of the Spring, and put the other 1/2" fitting with 1/4" hose barb on top of the check ball.
Now slowly screw the 3/8 bolt down until you feel a small resistance from the spring and check ball.
Run the 3/8 nut down to the surface of the 1/2" Brass plug and secure with the appropriate wrench.
Now, the barb opposite of the bolt, is fed by either the compressor housing OR the intake manifold. The barb that sticks out from the middle, now feeds the wastegate actuator.
To adjust boost pressure all you have to do IS:
Loosen lock nut, and turn bolt IN for more boost, turn OUT for less, tighten lock nut.
I will have to post my pics later, they are currently not loaded on my computer.
Enjoy safe boosting.
*Not responsible for damage anyone has from overboosting due to lack of following the directions.*
If problems persist such as :
Boost pressure uncontrollable- Make sure hoses are sourced and plugged in properly.
Boost setting to high- get a weaker spring
Boost setting to low- get a stronger spring
Boost spiking to much- drill a slightly bigger vent hole
All parts are usually available at a Ace Hardware. Grab a sales rep and bring the required materials list with you. I know some hardware stores do not stock this stuff and will play 20 questions wanting to know WHY your needing this stuff so bad, just inform them that you are saving yourself $45 - $9.00 (worth of parts) = $36 dollars and some time by doing this yourself. You may have to check around, but parts stores DO stock this stuff, you just have to know EXACTLY what your looking for.
Good luck and hope I saved alot of you some $$$.
Pics will be attached soon...*Edit* cannot even find my pics, so.....here's is my source for this info, I just modified the materials because its easier to get TEE's than it is to get ELBOW's.
Materials:
(1) 1/2" Brass TEE
(2) 1/2" Brass Fittings with 1/4" Hose Barbs.
(1) 1/2" Brass Plug fitting
(1) 1" medium duty Spring (test a few by squeezing them with your index finger and thumb, you want it to be resistant, but not too stiff)
(1) 3/8 Metal Ball
(1) 3/8-16 Allen Head bolt 1 1/2"
(1) 3/8-16 Nut
Tools necessary:
Vice
3/32 drill bit
3/8 drill
5/16 Drill bit
Small Hammer
Center Punch
Sharpie Black Permanent Marker
3/8-16 Tap
Tap Handle
Procedure:
Take the Brass Tee and put the plug in the top or bottom. (doesn't matter)
Take the Sharpie and mark the center of the plug.
Take the center punch and small hammer and indent the center of the plug.
Use the center punch and hammer to indent the middle of the flat side of the tee.
Use the 3/32 drill bit to drill a tiny hole on the flat side of the tee.
Take the 5/16 drill bit and drill a hole straight through the plug using the vise to hold the TEE still.
Now, Tap the hole you just drilled with the 3/8-16 Tap and handle.
Take one of the 1/2" fittings with 1/4" hose barbs and put it in the side of the tee.
Now take the 3/8-16 nut and thread it on the bolt all the way up it to the top where the head is.
Screw the bolt TIP into the hole you just drilled and tapped.
Flip the Tee over and drop the spring into the Brass Tee from the bottom (or directly opposite the bolt you just screwed in)
Place the Check Ball on the end of the Spring, and put the other 1/2" fitting with 1/4" hose barb on top of the check ball.
Now slowly screw the 3/8 bolt down until you feel a small resistance from the spring and check ball.
Run the 3/8 nut down to the surface of the 1/2" Brass plug and secure with the appropriate wrench.
Now, the barb opposite of the bolt, is fed by either the compressor housing OR the intake manifold. The barb that sticks out from the middle, now feeds the wastegate actuator.
To adjust boost pressure all you have to do IS:
Loosen lock nut, and turn bolt IN for more boost, turn OUT for less, tighten lock nut.
I will have to post my pics later, they are currently not loaded on my computer.
Enjoy safe boosting.
*Not responsible for damage anyone has from overboosting due to lack of following the directions.*
If problems persist such as :
Boost pressure uncontrollable- Make sure hoses are sourced and plugged in properly.
Boost setting to high- get a weaker spring
Boost setting to low- get a stronger spring
Boost spiking to much- drill a slightly bigger vent hole
All parts are usually available at a Ace Hardware. Grab a sales rep and bring the required materials list with you. I know some hardware stores do not stock this stuff and will play 20 questions wanting to know WHY your needing this stuff so bad, just inform them that you are saving yourself $45 - $9.00 (worth of parts) = $36 dollars and some time by doing this yourself. You may have to check around, but parts stores DO stock this stuff, you just have to know EXACTLY what your looking for.
Good luck and hope I saved alot of you some $$$.
Pics will be attached soon...*Edit* cannot even find my pics, so.....here's is my source for this info, I just modified the materials because its easier to get TEE's than it is to get ELBOW's.
I understand the concept behind this stuff and why you use the ball and spring but is it really neccessary? At homedepot therei s a tee used for refrigerator ice maker/water filter that has a built in valve to allow you to control a certain amount of water going throught. This can also be completely close off or wide open to let air throught. It should work the same way as the ball and spring I think. Make the hole in the valve smaller to allow less air throught thus increase the pressure and vice versa. It suppose 1/4" size hose I think and securely tigthen by the nut rather than just pushing it in and hope the pressure don't force it back out like the other hose in the car which sometime does come off.
I been searching around for the 1/2" stuff and I don't think anyone carry them anymore. The biggest is 3/8" which Ace does carry.
I been searching around for the 1/2" stuff and I don't think anyone carry them anymore. The biggest is 3/8" which Ace does carry.
This makes a bleeder type, which is not good. It allows metered air to leave the system, which will make your car run rich.sathu said:
Ball and spring types are the way to go.
I went back to the store and got new and bigger tee with barb. Gona get the bearing and spring later. About the tiny hole that most of the mbc have near the adjusting bolt, do you need it or no?
How long can the tube go from the lower IC to the wastegate be? I herd that the shorter the better which is around 18" total since it has to be on top of the accordion pipe for you to adjust the boost.
How long can the tube go from the lower IC to the wastegate be? I herd that the shorter the better which is around 18" total since it has to be on top of the accordion pipe for you to adjust the boost.
Last edited: