MAFT Pro into 2JZGE-T on 7M electronics with LC1 - New issues (shocking I know)

[veedubin]

Finally got this swap started and starting to make some head way on the "finishing touches." Now I'm left with a few issues that I can't seem to over come on my own, and have not had any luck finding through search.

BTW what happened to the being able to search individual sub forums option in the search?

Anyways, here's the specs of this setup:
JDM 7MGTE ecu
1995 Lexus SC300 2JZGE
Engine is running from 7MGTE electronics with CT26 turbo and stock 440cc injectors.
MAFT Pro is running V5.00 and using Tuner Pro RT 5
Innovate LC1 with DB gauge

The issues I'm coming up with are mainly wiring related right now.
The LC1 has been wired with Anolog out #2 going to the DB gauge as instructed.
Anolog out #1 is not connected to anything (here is one issue)

MAFT Pro hook up is showing orange wire for WB input (LC1 anolog out #1)
- Unable to find the proper scale to use for setting up the LC1 anolog output so that MAFT can read.
I do not have the factory O2 sensor installed. Wire has been tucked away and I have a wire tapped @ the ECU hanging down right now
- I found something stating the Orange wire from MAFT pro should go to the factory ECU O2 input (that's how it's wired now, and I know it's not correct; after researching a whole lot more)

My questions for now:
Were Does the Orange wire (WB input) on the MAFT Pro get hooked to?
Assuming that the orange wire goes to LC1 analog out #1, what settings need to be established in the LC1 for proper operation with MAFT Pro?
How does the factory ECU get it's 02 sensor reading?

Like I said, I can't seem to find this information through any search avenues. I have, however, found lots of conflicting information on this.

If anyone is able, willing, and knowledgeable, I would love to personally speak to you over the phone about getting this thing wired and setup properly.

Thank you!

 

[JimR]

The first thing I would recommend is to pull out the multimeter and check what the LC1 is actually outputting for voltages (over time, and with the engine running) on the outputs. That will tell you if it's operating correctly, and if it is still set to defaults.

Secondly, refer to your Innovate LC1 manual, page 4. If the device is still set to defaults, then it will output a narrowband signal on output #1, and a wideband signal on output #2. Your maftpro is looking for a wideband input on its own pin 1. It would seem to make the most sense to tee off the output #2 wire, with one wire going to your gauge, and the other to your maftpro. That way they both receive the proper signal. Make sure your 'AFR Source' in the Maftpro is set to the 'LC1'.

Your factory 7M ECU looks for a narrowband signal. It watches for a constant flop between 0v and 5v on the input. See page FI-119 of the TSRM. Your LC1 output #1 is set up for this by default. You should be able to take that output and send it straight to the ECU. Be aware that with the stock O2 sensor disconnected, if your ECU is recent enough (89 or newer), it will also look for the correct operation of the O2 heater circuit. If it does not find this, it will throw a code and stay in limp mode.

Hope this helps.

 

[veedubin]

The first thing I would recommend is to pull out the multimeter and check what the LC1 is actually outputting for voltages (over time, and with the engine running) on the outputs. That will tell you if it's operating correctly, and if it is still set to defaults.

I would hope it's functioning properly, it was a brand new unit from innovate... But none-the-less I will hit it with the DMM and verify.

Secondly, refer to your Innovate LC1 manual, page 4. If the device is still set to defaults, then it will output a narrowband signal on output #1, and a wideband signal on output #2. Your maftpro is looking for a wideband input on its own pin 1. It would seem to make the most sense to tee off the output #2 wire, with one wire going to your gauge, and the other to your maftpro. That way they both receive the proper signal. Make sure your 'AFR Source' in the Maftpro is set to the 'LC1'.

I've had the LC1 hooked up to the programmer (laptop) and everything is still set to absolute factory default settings. I will also be tapping the analog 2 for the MAFT Pro as well.

Your factory 7M ECU looks for a narrowband signal. It watches for a constant flop between 0v and 5v on the input. See page FI-119 of the TSRM. Your LC1 output #1 is set up for this by default. You should be able to take that output and send it straight to the ECU. Be aware that with the stock O2 sensor disconnected, if your ECU is recent enough (89 or newer), it will also look for the correct operation of the O2 heater circuit. If it does not find this, it will throw a code and stay in limp mode.

Maybe I'm misinformed, but a narrow band O2 sensor is a 0-1V scale not a 0-5V. ECU is also a JDM yellow plug from an 88 turbo.

I was thinking that somehow the MAFT pro was supposed to feed an O2 signal into the ECU, not the ECU getting one from the LC1?

Anyways, Thanks for the tech info, I'll be verifying and checking all this out tomorrow (if the rain goes away) I will post up findings.

Thanks again!

 

[veedubin]

Got the wideband wiring thing straightened out, finally. Current setup is this:
LC1 anolog out2 into MAFT Pro and DB gauge
anolog out1 into factory ECU

MAFT Pro is showing correct AFR and all seems well. Thanks for the assistance!

Now If i could actually get the MAFT Pro to do what I want it too..... :nono:

And for round 2 of questions:

Using tunerpro rt 5 and MAFT Pro v5.00 how do I access the live data PIDS and start logging? I've been through forum after forum and can't seem to get any usable....

 

[veedubin]

So As of today, I have a whole new set of issues to contend with.
First of all, Tuner Pro RT V5 and V4 cause my laptop to randomly bluescreen and reboot;all the time. Seems to be when I've got T-Pro loggin, or even just with the aldl connected.
I haven't been able to get a solid log to be able to do anything with because of this issue.

I was able to update mpro to V5.27 today - not sure if it helped or harmed anything, but I'm the guy that likes everything to be the latest and greatest. Went from V5.00 to 5.27; seems to be a lot of new features popped up.

Lost my tune(not much of one) twice due to bluescreen and my own stupidity.
As of now I've went through and reset everything on the MAFT Pro (held down right buttons during power up)

My question; If I use the TCPU program to upload the bin from the maft pro (after the reset) that should give me a 100% blank canvas to start working from, correct?

Next issue/question - VF: I read the article on understanding VF, tuning to satisfy VF, and any other info I could find relating to making the VF "happy" @ ~2.5V
I currently have the car idling at 14.7 give or take. Idle is rather high though; ~875-1000 rpm VF is flipping between 0.00V and 0.01V (TCCS showing full rich condition)
When I go into the VF table to "smooth" it out a little bit (per article on tuning to satisfy VF) I alter the 4 cells around where my car is idling at; 20kpa/40kpa & 800/1200rpm I use the multiply feature by 0.98
After altering press the save button. The VF will not move at idle - the AFR's will start to go lean and that's it. I stopped at 15.7 and put the VE back to where it was.
Also having some issues with AFR's at idle fluctuating occasionaly. Now, the VF will alter to about ~1.00V when I do a gradual rev and let off. At that time AFR is showing to be spiked at 17.XX or above. Once AFR's go lower than that the VF returns to 0.00V

After a lot more reading I'm thinking that the ECU is in a default rich mode. My reasoning is that I do not have the factory O2 sensor installed anymore. Instead, I have the anolog out 1 from my LC-1 going to the factory O2 wire into the TCCS. The more I'm reading and thinking, I believe that the output from the LC1 is not compatible with the TCCS. The LC1 is currently set to factory default settings except for the settings in the anolog out 2 I have changed to 1/12sec response time to allow the MAFT Pro to register properly.

So my question is this: what scale settings are required for the LC-1 to output a proper O2 signal to the TCCS. I would like to do the tuning under closed loop operation initially. Once that is all sorted out, then start playing with PTT, WOT Tracking etc... For now, I just need to get this thing driveable.

 

[jonahs_supra]

my vf is happy at a 15.2-15.5 afr at idle
when i was tuning at idle i would blip the throttle
vf takes a while to adjust(from my experience on my car 91)

 

[enawazh]

It seems like ure on the right thought process. The tccs needs an o2 signal to be able to make adjustments to Vf. Try running the stock o2 to see if u get Vf to stabilize. Double check your connections to make sure ure sending the narrow band signal to the right wire. Do u have an AFPR or are u running the stock 2jz dampner? I believe the stock 2jz NA dampner has a little higher fuel pressure than 7mgte. That could also be affecting vf

 

[veedubin]

It seems like ure on the right thought process. The tccs needs an o2 signal to be able to make adjustments to Vf. Try running the stock o2 to see if u get Vf to stabilize. Double check your connections to make sure ure sending the narrow band signal to the right wire. Do u have an AFPR or are u running the stock 2jz dampner? I believe the stock 2jz NA dampner has a little higher fuel pressure than 7mgte. That could also be affecting vf

No damper and aeromotive AFPR set to factory specs. New gauge on order to re-verify. All wiring is proper Ans soldered. Unable to put factory O2 in as wiring has been removed. Looking for proper scaling for LC-1 to use foe factory narrow band input.

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[ifyouaint1sturlast]

I remember people trying to force the ECU into open loop by removing the o2 sensor - but it never worked quite that simply.

 

[veedubin]

I remember people trying to force the ECU into open loop by removing the o2 sensor - but it never worked quite that simply.

See I'm actually trying to do the opposite of that right now. I need the ECU to go into closed loop and output a proper VF signal. I don't know why I can't find the factory toyota O2 sensor scale. If I find that I can set the LC1 to output that on anolog 1 and solve this whole mess.

 

[ifyouaint1sturlast]

See I'm actually trying to do the opposite of that right now. I need the ECU to go into closed loop and output a proper VF signal. I don't know why I can't find the factory toyota O2 sensor scale. If I find that I can set the LC1 to output that on anolog 1 and solve this whole mess.

Sorry I actually meant closed loop, typo ..

 

[veedubin]

Sorry I actually meant closed loop, typo ..

No, you are correct with your statement "removing stock O2 to force open loop" Open loop mode does not rely on any input from the oxygen sensor. It uses the values from other sensors on the engine to determine proper fueling.

On a side not, I have done a whole lot of reading and research tonight. I think I may have found something, but I won't be able to test my theory until tomorrow after work. Will update then

 

[ifyouaint1sturlast]

Are you sure? I've been up 48 hours straight for work (you can actually go through my posts and see I've posted all through the night and day) and it's taking it's toll.

Bottom line, what I meant to say:
I've seen where people would try to just remove the o2 to force [the mode that relies strictly on the AFM and not o2], but it never worked that well and they'd have to find other solutions.

 

[veedubin]

Are you sure? I've been up 48 hours straight for work (you can actually go through my posts and see I've posted all through the night and day) and it's taking it's toll.

Bottom line, what I meant to say:
I've seen where people would try to just remove the o2 to force [the mode that relies strictly on the AFM and not o2], but it never worked that well and they'd have to find other solutions.

Wow! Get some sleep, man. LOL But yes you are correct. And I think I may have one of the only 7MGTE ECU's that that actually works on..... My VF will not change until I take the throttle past a certain point. I'm assuming the point where the VF starts to change is the moment where the ECU would actually switch to open loop mode (no O2 feedback) I need to get this ECU to register properly under closed loop so I can tune with the VF instead of against it.

 

[jonahs_supra]

any luck?
have you tried checking the vf signal at the diagnostic box located on drivers fender well behind battery?

 

[veedubin]

any luck?
have you tried checking the vf signal at the diagnostic box located on drivers fender well behind battery?

Luck? Sure lots of it.... just not so much on the good side. LOL

Had some huge situations to deal with this week, and more to come up next week. During all the "fun" I was able to get a few minutes with the car. I went to start it up, and yea, no start. CPS took a crap. Now for some reason or another it runs again. ???? Anyways, I've got another CPS to modify to fit the head so I'll be putting that in tomorrow I think.

So since it actually started up today, I was able to finally get a logged run. Thankfully the laptop waited to crash until after I saved the log!

As for the VF issue, I have not been able to get it to move at all from 0.00V. I altered the output settings on the LC-1, but to no avail. I checked VF @ diag box and getting same reading as the MAFT Pro - 0.01V to 0.03V

After fiddling with it tonight, I am going to re-run the wires for the factory O2 sensor and install it again. I will use the LC-1 to fee to MAFT Pro only.

Thanks for the help everyone. I'll be posting up new issues once I get the O2 installed and get the ECU back to closed loop operation.

 

[veedubin]

is it normal to have TPS voltage reversed on this swap??? Im using the 2J TPS and wired according to what I found in the 2JZGE-T swap notes sticky.... I'm showing 4.3 @idle and 1.01 at WOT???? also Idle AFR's are around 13.5-13.8.....

The AFR readings are with no modification to MAFT Pro default settings; yea, I did the reset again. Also pulled EFI fuse and reset the timing. TPS resistance specs are spot on (per 7MGTE standards.)

 

[veedubin]

This was the question....

is it normal to have TPS voltage reversed on this swap??? Im using the 2J TPS and wired according to what I found in the 2JZGE-T swap notes sticky.... I'm showing 4.3 @idle and 1.01 at WOT???? also Idle AFR's are around 13.5-13.8.....

The AFR readings are with no modification to MAFT Pro default settings; yea, I did the reset again. Also pulled EFI fuse and reset the timing. TPS resistance specs are spot on (per 7MGTE standards.)

This is the "I'm an idiot" answer:

Make sure the wires to the TPS are hooked up properly.... That concludes my retard moment. BTW I've been fighting with this issue for a while now. Just took her out for an easy run, and yea, having correct TPS voltage (and re-re-re-resetting the timing) makes for a very notable difference.

VF voltage is now showing as something other than 0.00V. I was actually able to tweak the VE table to obtain 2.XXV @ idle on the VF

I cannot convey my feelings through typing right now; just think hyper active squirrel after doing a few lines of coke.... :aigo: :biglaugh:

Wow, I have my baby back now!

2JZ GE-T swap is officially running and driveable.

Thank you all!

 

[JimR]

Good to hear

The stock ECU is a smart unit and it will fight hard to keep control over idling, cruse, and all low load conditions. The best combination seems to be to let it do it's thing with a solid narrowband input, and focus your tuning on the top end when it goes into open loop (3500rpm / 70% throttle).

Did you ever see the heater circuit code? That will absolutely cause a limp mode condition, and it may have been what you were experiencing.

 

[veedubin]

Did you ever see the heater circuit code? That will absolutely cause a limp mode condition, and it may have been what you were experiencing.

No heater circuit codes. Running yellow plug JDM ECU. I think 89+ had that issue but pre 89 didn't.

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