MAFT Gen 1 issues

[boostinprine]

alright so i got a maft translator in and wired up, my first question is setting up the injector size. I have 550s, the second to last page on the instructions page there is the injector size table but at the top there is a chart reading normal, 1500 limit, 1450 limit, 1400 limit... wtf is that referring to? I have it currently setup aux at 0 and base at D. Is that correct for initial setup?

With it setup like that im getting lean afr's in the 15s range cruising around low rpm and stays there when giving it alittle gas in 3rd or 4th gear. Im assuming i should tell it that it has a smaller injector, but so i only adjust base knob or the aux too?

My second queston when trying to satisfy the Vf reading, I have my multimeter connected on the check connector on Vf1 and E1? With it like that it just stays at 0v. do i need to jump Te1 and E1 together while im monitoring Vf1 and E1? Am i doing it completely wrong?

Third, The circuit board is marked the first two knobs are MAF (Base and WOT) and second two are SPARK (Base and WOT) Is that how all of them are marked? the one in the instructions doesnt look like its marked that way.

 

[yrallofthenamestaken]

It appears to me as though you have set the unit up correctly for initial tuning. For your car initially, set aux to 0, base to "D", all 4 dip switches down in the off mode, and zero out idle, base, and wot until you are ready to start tuning and we are certain everything is functioning as it should. You have the dip switch set to operate with a 3'' MAF though, is this correct? The "limits" you are questioning are caps on the Hz signal that the MAFT sends to the ECU, which can be dangerous if used improperly as they raise fuel cut; the 1400 limit can pretty much eliminate it. Don't mess with this feature until you are a little comfortable with the unit. 15.xx is a great range to be in for cruising, as it provides pretty good fuel economy, if your AFR climbs into the upper 16's while cruising then there may be cause for concern, but everyone has their own comfort levels regarding AFR's.

Concerning your VF readings, you are jumping the correct terminals (VF1 and E1), and no, you should not jump TE1and E1 to monitor VF. Set the multimeter to the lowest setting that will read 5 volts, and monitor VF while cruising at low to mid throttle. If you do this and still get a reading of "0" on your monitor then you can adjust the base knob to try and achieve a VF reading of 2.5V, but more than likely there may be another issue which needs resolved. A true reading of "0" while driving suggests that the ECU is pulling a ton of fuel out of the base map and is normally only seen on decel. So, set idle, mid, and WOT back to the zero and try again with VF monitoring.

Finally, regarding whether or not all of the boards have "spark" lettered on the board, I believe the answer is yes. My understanding is that the same boards were used for all or nearly all of specific applications that Full Throttle made these for, but these spark dials would only apply to something such as an LS-1 car. I will double check mine tomorrow for you though.

What kind of wideband are you running on the car?

 

[boostinprine]

Thanks for the info, Im using a PLX wideband. hopefully ill get a chance to mess with it today. I am using the 3.5" MAF I thought i had the mode 1 on and 2 off, but your right the picture i posted looks like there both at on position wich would be the extreme mad setup..., ill double check that too

 

[boostinprine]

got vf readings now, thanks