lc1 wb, or afm?

[89supra7mgte]

Ok so i was out driving tonight, had to run some errands. Come back out get in my car, start and let idle for a min (get wb adjusted) and for some reason the lc1 would not register the correct afr? was flashing the min and then get stuck at max? (full rich and full lean) Happened once before and it was the afm, how it went out dont know. The hz reading on the safc2 is steady at idle, while the afrs are not? i tried two other afms and same thing. sensor recal and no change, they kinda steady out now, but used to be 14.6-14.8 now they drop and rise from 13.5 to 15.2

any ideas?

 

[89supra7mgte]

nobody?

I am going to assume the car is safe to drive, like this only because of how steady the engine is and going full rich full lean i would expect to see something or hear something odd right?

 

[wardog]

Its the wide band bro, I had an LC1 and it cost me my new engine. It was registering 11.6 and it was actually 12.7 afr at wot. Soon enough there goes my ring land quickly , i made 430rwhp. Now i suggest you sell it and get yourseld an AEM widenband. It self calibrates unlike the Lc1 you have to calibrate it.

 

[89supra7mgte]

Is it the sensor or controller though? it has ran great i have not adjusted anything to try and correct what its reading for fear of tearing shit up. i will invest in the aem, does it use the same bosch sensor? i can get them all day (1999-2001 vw beetle 1.8t) for 50 bucks or so. Can i use the vf signal to get an idea of where the car is running when it is messed up?

 

[wardog]

You gotta rig the LC1 with a led and ground stuff. I personally dont like that shit, it cost me a new engine. Just get yourself an AEM wideband kit and call it a day, it comes with its sensor. You can use the VF but i wouldnt risk it.

 

[89supra7mgte]

well it has done this twice now, first time was a faulty afm, would start to cut out at 2k (honda syndrome type idle) cleared up and was working great until just recently. I have the led and ground set up, which iirc is for recalibration? i am gonna try a new sensor since mine is warranty. save up some money and do the aem wb

 

[bluepearl]

Just for the hell of it, check your VF voltage readings at 2.5--3K, no load. You get to see what the PCM is doing at steady cruise. This would just be another number to look at in your diagnosis.

 

[89supra7mgte]

ok and before at about that rpm no load, when lc1 was working properly my afrs were around 14.4-14.8 so on the vf what should i be reading? and what pins do you jump again i know vf1 and is the other te1 or e1?

 

[89supra7mgte]

Measured vf1-te1 voltage is 1.456-1.445 pretty steady. is that lean or rich? thats at idle, between 2500-3000 it is 2.73 steady no dramatic changes. But now noticed that when holding throttle steady the rpms go up and down, same as the first time it started happening. the hz reading on safc is 59-60 think it was about 5% throttle, and when the idle jumps the wb goes from 14s to 21.9 afr? please help

 

[89supra7mgte]

Ok update. Replaced sensor (warranty part) afrs are more stable in the mid 14s. No codes. tried known working afm and when holding throttle at 2k and above at different points get an idle surge of a few hundred rpm even with known good afm. installed mine on other car and works like new.

What else should i be looking into? nothing has changed setup wise and was running great. please help wanna get it cleared up so i can drive it. or atleast find out if it is safe to drive like that? I have not noticed any surge when driving around 2k at steady throttle. No vac leaks either