if you are hitting around 14, depending on the outside temp that sounds normal.. last spring right around the same but once summer hit couldnt leave it up that high...
Installing MBC
- Thread starter theKnifeArtist
- Start date
To bigal0043 - That... makes no sense, man.
Hotter air = less dense = less mass of air coming through the AFM per given volume. It's usually the cold nights where FC is lowered, due to more dense air = more mass of air per given volume.
In laymens terms, the colder the air is, the lower your FC will be. The hotter the air is, the higher your FC will be. Unless it's colder in summer than it is in spring where you live?
To OP - Unless this is a different design than the more 'typical' style, you don't T into the boost line - you put the MBC IN LINE with the wastegate actuation hose.
If you have it T'd off, then you are bleeding all air pressure off, wastegate is not opening, and FC is doing just what it is supposed to do Keep you from blowing the car up!
It should go:
Compressor housing hose nipple ---> MBC inlet ---> MBC outlet ----> Wastegate actuator nipple.
For that matter, screwing the screw out with no tension on the spring inside, will have you running stock boost. All the MBC I've seen, use a ball and spring valve. The screw you turn, pushes on a spring, that pushes on a ball. The spring pressure depends on how tight the screw is turned, and your maximum boost pressure = that spring pressure.
*edit* What the hell, a little more knowledge won't hurt :icon_razz
The boost pressure coming off the compressor housing, pushes against the spring. Say you've got it cranked down, so that it takes 10psi of pressure to overcome the spring's force - @ 10psi, the spring is pushed back, and that 10psi pressure shoots down the MBC into the wastegate. Wastegate snaps open, boost pressure starts to fall - as soon as it no longer can sustain that 10psi, the MBC closes again, and the cycle goes through repeatedly. An EBC does the same thing, just with much finer control.
Hotter air = less dense = less mass of air coming through the AFM per given volume. It's usually the cold nights where FC is lowered, due to more dense air = more mass of air per given volume.
In laymens terms, the colder the air is, the lower your FC will be. The hotter the air is, the higher your FC will be. Unless it's colder in summer than it is in spring where you live?
To OP - Unless this is a different design than the more 'typical' style, you don't T into the boost line - you put the MBC IN LINE with the wastegate actuation hose.
If you have it T'd off, then you are bleeding all air pressure off, wastegate is not opening, and FC is doing just what it is supposed to do
Keep you from blowing the car up!It should go:
Compressor housing hose nipple ---> MBC inlet ---> MBC outlet ----> Wastegate actuator nipple.
For that matter, screwing the screw out with no tension on the spring inside, will have you running stock boost. All the MBC I've seen, use a ball and spring valve. The screw you turn, pushes on a spring, that pushes on a ball. The spring pressure depends on how tight the screw is turned, and your maximum boost pressure = that spring pressure.
*edit* What the hell, a little more knowledge won't hurt :icon_razz
The boost pressure coming off the compressor housing, pushes against the spring. Say you've got it cranked down, so that it takes 10psi of pressure to overcome the spring's force - @ 10psi, the spring is pushed back, and that 10psi pressure shoots down the MBC into the wastegate. Wastegate snaps open, boost pressure starts to fall - as soon as it no longer can sustain that 10psi, the MBC closes again, and the cycle goes through repeatedly. An EBC does the same thing, just with much finer control.