To set the base timing, you must have the crank at 0* according to the front timing plate. Make sure the #1 cylinder is at TOP DEAD CENTER. (Look in the #1 spark plug hole with a flashlight, or use a small socket extension/wooden dowel to "feel" how far up the piston is- but be careful!) Align the notch in the crank pulley with the 0* mark. Make sure the #1 cylinder is at TDC (top dead center) next, align the cam gear's notches with the notches in the back plate just behind the cam gears. When you install the timing belt, make sure nothing moves! everything MUST be at 0*.
Important note: As these cars/motors age, it's common for the rubber section of the crank damper/pulley to degrade. As this degradation takes place, the inner section of the damper will spin, and no longer be in sync with the outer section which has the timing mark on it.
What does this mean in relation to timing? It means that when you've got the crank set at 0* TDC according to the timing notch on the crank pulley, it's quite possible that your #1 piston is NOT at exactly top dead center! In order to be most accurate, remove spark plug #1 and use a chopstick to verify top dead center while turning the crank by hand. If it is in fact different than what your crank pulley shows, replace that pulley! Also note that at this age, the damping ability of that old crank pulley should be questioned. If you've just finished building your motor, don't trust it to an old crank pulley.
The ATI unit is spectacular, cheaper than a new stock one, and better!
To align the CPS:
Align the two red marks to set the IGNITION timing to 0*. Remember that the CPS has a helical cut gear and that the "rotor" will spin when you insert the CPS into the head. You must turn the CPS one tooth in the opposite direction when installing it, with the BASE (read: cam/crank) timing at 0*.
(Direct link here: http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c295/shaeff/86451f49.jpg )
Once you have this set, place a jumper wire in diagnostic terminals T(e)1 and E1 (like you're checking codes). Start the car, let it warm up to operating temperature. Using a timing light, place the pickup on #1 or #6 spark plug wire. Connect the + and - to the battery, and loosen the CPS bolt, but don't turn it at all!
You're now going to set the ignition timing. (When the spark plugs will fire in relation to the piston's position) You need to look at the lower timing cover near the crank pulley. See those numbers down there? 0,5,10, etc...? Those are used for setting ignition timing. Shine the timing light at the crank pulley and those timing marks. You will notice that the notch on the crank pulley appears to stop. What you're going to do now, is rotate the CPS until the notch lines up with the 10* mark on the lower timing cover. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE T(e)1 AND E1 JUMPED IN THE DIAGNOSTIC BLOCK!!!
Once you have that notch lined up with 10* on the lower cover, tighten the bolt on the CPS so it can't move. Make sure it doesn't rotate when you're tightening it, as that will screw up your IGN timing. Once that bolt is tight, remove the wires for the timing light, remove the jumper in the diagnostic block, and take it for a ride.
Important note: As these cars/motors age, it's common for the rubber section of the crank damper/pulley to degrade. As this degradation takes place, the inner section of the damper will spin, and no longer be in sync with the outer section which has the timing mark on it.
What does this mean in relation to timing? It means that when you've got the crank set at 0* TDC according to the timing notch on the crank pulley, it's quite possible that your #1 piston is NOT at exactly top dead center! In order to be most accurate, remove spark plug #1 and use a chopstick to verify top dead center while turning the crank by hand. If it is in fact different than what your crank pulley shows, replace that pulley! Also note that at this age, the damping ability of that old crank pulley should be questioned. If you've just finished building your motor, don't trust it to an old crank pulley.
The ATI unit is spectacular, cheaper than a new stock one, and better!
To align the CPS:
Align the two red marks to set the IGNITION timing to 0*. Remember that the CPS has a helical cut gear and that the "rotor" will spin when you insert the CPS into the head. You must turn the CPS one tooth in the opposite direction when installing it, with the BASE (read: cam/crank) timing at 0*.
(Direct link here: http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c295/shaeff/86451f49.jpg )
Once you have this set, place a jumper wire in diagnostic terminals T(e)1 and E1 (like you're checking codes). Start the car, let it warm up to operating temperature. Using a timing light, place the pickup on #1 or #6 spark plug wire. Connect the + and - to the battery, and loosen the CPS bolt, but don't turn it at all!
You're now going to set the ignition timing. (When the spark plugs will fire in relation to the piston's position) You need to look at the lower timing cover near the crank pulley. See those numbers down there? 0,5,10, etc...? Those are used for setting ignition timing. Shine the timing light at the crank pulley and those timing marks. You will notice that the notch on the crank pulley appears to stop. What you're going to do now, is rotate the CPS until the notch lines up with the 10* mark on the lower timing cover. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE T(e)1 AND E1 JUMPED IN THE DIAGNOSTIC BLOCK!!!
Once you have that notch lined up with 10* on the lower cover, tighten the bolt on the CPS so it can't move. Make sure it doesn't rotate when you're tightening it, as that will screw up your IGN timing. Once that bolt is tight, remove the wires for the timing light, remove the jumper in the diagnostic block, and take it for a ride.
