Yes although perhaps I didn't explain it right. Look at situation 2. When between ports the valve is modulated based on port E and exhaust pressure. When R is open the valve is run off it.
How many run without EGR?
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Godspeed;1134771 said:
do a compression test and look for a drop between two adjacent cylinders.
then id start with your basic maintenance routine and make sure the cooling system hasn't been overlooked on ANY aspect. need more info and possibly your own thread.
JJ - Gotcha...the pressure differential is primarly between E and exhaust until R is uncovered. Makes sense...it's only when exhaust pressure is low the EGR shuts off when E only is active. I don't dig into the NA stuff that often...good to know 
Godspeed - I agree, probably OT in this thread.
Godspeed - I agree, probably OT in this thread.
I don't have mine connected, during the race season, (to keep intake temps down). I also have to add fuel to compensate for the extra O2, so combustion temps don't get too high.
During the off season, I put it all back on and take out the added fuel. It's a pain, but I like the results. Lots of reliable power for the track.
It's also my DD. Van
During the off season, I put it all back on and take out the added fuel. It's a pain, but I like the results. Lots of reliable power for the track.
It's also my DD. Van
jetjock;1134742 said:
ok, so even though i'm putting a turbo on a na, i should deffinetly switch to a gte egr with of course a gte tb
yes sorry, i mean the modulator, wich is the plastic diaphram that the intake manifold is connected too, and the vsv is what the harness plugs into and the vacum lines right.
well thanks, i was originally gonna use the GE modulator and just 'T' off the tb to both ports on the modulator
I´ve removed the EGR and as of today I have had no issues w/o that ugly U.F.O....
Nevertheless, a sticky would be a great idea. I did some searching but couldn´t find clear pros and cons.
Nevertheless, a sticky would be a great idea. I did some searching but couldn´t find clear pros and cons.
Sar-Supra;1135475 said:
Maybe Jdub would be able to put a sticky up? He has plenty of good information on it.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27185&highlight=egr%2A
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Intersting numbers JDUB´s got there. It seems as if I am going to re-install the EGR again.
However, it would still be nice if there was a way to relocate the EGR if I am planning on installing a FFIM.
However, it would still be nice if there was a way to relocate the EGR if I am planning on installing a FFIM.
You can't easily relocate the EGR from the rear port on the head, but you can route it for an FFIM without too much trouble. Here's how I did it:
Ok this is a hot topic so i will open up a new can of worms here. Posted a link to this subject on the UK forum a couple of days ago and here are the replys.
Enjoy.
http://mkiiisupra.net/bbs/showthread.php?t=24496
I await to flamed again.
Enjoy.
http://mkiiisupra.net/bbs/showthread.php?t=24496
I await to flamed again.
Most of those replies are the typical logical fallacy..."it didn't happen to me, so that means it won't happen". Believe what you want
The heat at the back of the head is not the issue. The turbo and DP create far more radiant heat than the EGR cooler ecer could. Plus the water jacket is right under the EGR cooler
I do have a question on UK cars...did the ones Toyota sold in the UK come standard with the EGR?
The heat at the back of the head is not the issue. The turbo and DP create far more radiant heat than the EGR cooler ecer could. Plus the water jacket is right under the EGR cooler
I do have a question on UK cars...did the ones Toyota sold in the UK come standard with the EGR?
Ok, I might get bashed for this or if someone wants to shed some light for me that would be great!!
I have a rebuilt motor with JE's and a HKS hg. I have 660 injectors so my car runs rich a lot. At Idle my car sits at an A/F of 14.0 then richens to 13.5 at 2000 rpm until boost. I haven't had any issues in the 3 years with my car yet. I also have the Koyo race radiator and a 160 degree thermostat aswell to keep temps down. I have been to the track 10+ times like this plus have put over 20k miles like this and have good compression numbers so far. Could this be because I have my car set up for the track so I run a little richer down low that this has not effected me? I have an EGR that I can put on, however I have sent money as a DP on a AEM AMS. My car always runs really cool even driving it over 300 miles in one day with many 100+mph pulls. I can't ever get this thing to run hot even making back to back runs at the track not letting the car cool down. Should I put it back on, I don't mind running a little richer. This car is my daily driver for now, until my ins settles on my truck then I'll be getting a new one and this is going to only be my weekend car again.
Thanks
I have a rebuilt motor with JE's and a HKS hg. I have 660 injectors so my car runs rich a lot. At Idle my car sits at an A/F of 14.0 then richens to 13.5 at 2000 rpm until boost. I haven't had any issues in the 3 years with my car yet. I also have the Koyo race radiator and a 160 degree thermostat aswell to keep temps down. I have been to the track 10+ times like this plus have put over 20k miles like this and have good compression numbers so far. Could this be because I have my car set up for the track so I run a little richer down low that this has not effected me? I have an EGR that I can put on, however I have sent money as a DP on a AEM AMS. My car always runs really cool even driving it over 300 miles in one day with many 100+mph pulls. I can't ever get this thing to run hot even making back to back runs at the track not letting the car cool down. Should I put it back on, I don't mind running a little richer. This car is my daily driver for now, until my ins settles on my truck then I'll be getting a new one and this is going to only be my weekend car again.
Thanks
If you guy's want/need EGR's why not ask on www.mkiiisupra.net (uk supra site)..i think i might have a couple laying around,
we removed them because ....(a) we don't need them, and it's an ugly critter to have under the hood..(b) because the passage for the exhaust gas from number 6 cylinder run's around the back of the head to the egr unit (this is direct heat to the rear of the head, not radiant heat)..and there were alot of bhg on number 6 cylinder..
i think one of you guy's asked if uk supras had egr's fitted as "standard"?..yes they were, toyota also supplied our supra's with the head torqued to 55ft/lb as "standard"...this was no good either:biglaugh:
we removed them because ....(a) we don't need them, and it's an ugly critter to have under the hood..(b) because the passage for the exhaust gas from number 6 cylinder run's around the back of the head to the egr unit (this is direct heat to the rear of the head, not radiant heat)..and there were alot of bhg on number 6 cylinder..
i think one of you guy's asked if uk supras had egr's fitted as "standard"?..yes they were, toyota also supplied our supra's with the head torqued to 55ft/lb as "standard"...this was no good either:biglaugh:
john93t;1136520 said:
I knew these spit polished, curb stomping boots would finally get thier break-in!!!!
[Spit polished curb stomping boot]
so #6 is direct heat but somehow #1, #2, #3, #4, #5 are not? How does the exhaust manifold attach to the aluminum head again? Via pixie dust?
So #6 has more heat than the rest because.......?
Let me take one guess. Never taken apart the EGR cooler plate have you? Of course not otherwise that insipid and ignorant comment would not have been thought by you much less typed. btw and for your information, the exhaust valves, combustion chamber and exhaust ports are already seeing 650+ degrees celcius and you are "telling" me that the EGR system somehow (might be the magic pixie dust holding the exhaust manifold to the aluminum head), takes it over the edge and causes bhg. Are you seriously that silly?
The ignorance is outstanding!
The 55 lbs/ft is quite fine. Now if you decided to do something toyota never intended like I don't know, increase the fucking boost. Then that is not OEM spec now is it.
Odd how I am always the exception to just about eveery single idiotic "normal" here. BTW 156k miles on OEM torqued headbolts AND HG before I took those off, installed a MHG and and ARP studs and installed a TD06. Never once a problem or BHG until 225k when the bearings spun on a low oil condition.
Figgie is the exception once again!.
[/Spit polished curb stomping boot]
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